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Old 04-24-2013, 03:08 AM   #29
cf6mech
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Originally Posted by wparsons View Post
IMO, even the power of 5psi (~250-280whp) is more than you should be running on stock brakes. The transmission and rear ends in the 500whp+ cars seem to be holding up fine with nothing more than a stronger clutch, which this will absolutely need already anyway and should've been done with the engine out if it wasn't.
If this was directed at me no worries,...Clutchmaster FX400 is installed,..Drive Shaft Shop carbon fiber driveshaft,...and Drive Shaft Shop Axles,...Stop Tech BBK brake kit. Don't know what these claimed 500+whp FRS/BRZ are using for dynos or fuel delivery systems (and I'm not talking just fuel pumps and injectors) because this engine gets extremely lean trying to support those kind of numbers without some kind of surge tank setup or different FUEL RAIL SYSTEM. Might run for awhile that way, but more sooner than later things are going to go POP !,..eventually someone will come up with a viable solution,...but right now there isn't any that will keep it from going too lean at full pull above say 350whp to be reliable long term.

Last edited by cf6mech; 04-25-2013 at 12:32 PM.
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:29 PM   #30
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If this was directed at me no worries,...Clutchmaster FX400 is installed,..Drive Shaft Shop carbon fiber driveshaft,...and Drive Shaft Shop Axles,...Stop Tech BBK brake kit. Don't know what these claimed 500+whp FRS/BRZ are using for dynos or fuel delivery systems (and I'm not talking just fuel pumps and injectors) because this engine gets extremely lean trying to support those kind of numbers without some kind of surge tank setup or different FUEL RAIL SYSTEM. Might run for awhile that way, but more sooner than later things are going to go POP !,..eventually someone will come up with a viable solution,...but right now there isn't any that will keep it from going too lean at full pull above say 350whp to be reliable long term.
Seems FBM has figured it out and working on a fix,...STOCK THERE IS NOT ENOUGH VOLUME OF FUEL TO RELIABLY BE BOOSTED ABOVE 350WHP.
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Old 06-07-2013, 06:30 PM   #31
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Actually its at 365whp / 301 for torque,.... on a very conservative Mustang Dyno. All the claims of reliability at more power un-forged,...good luck with that.
there were no claims of reliability of higher powered engines being made, just a simple fact that the stock internals of the engine are holding up with almost double the power you are making, without the expense or labor of installing forged components. congrats on the new engine.
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Old 06-07-2013, 06:49 PM   #32
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there were no claims of reliability of higher powered engines being made, just a simple fact that the stock internals of the engine are holding up with almost double the power you are making, without the expense or labor of installing forged components. congrats on the new engine.
Holding power right now and holding power for 60K miles are two different things.
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:18 PM   #33
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Holding power right now and holding power for 60K miles are two different things.
ok.
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:59 PM   #34
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Holding power right now and holding power for 60K miles are two different things.
I have strong suspicions that many of these high horsepower "stock motor" cars have built motors now for one reason or another. I don't think the stock internals can handle the power that many are led to believe.
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:11 PM   #35
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I have strong suspicions that many of these high horsepower "stock motor" cars have built motors now for one reason or another. I don't think the stock internals can handle the power that many are led to believe.



Ive seen the stock internals up close and person when they came through my block. The Rods leave alot to be desired!
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:26 AM   #36
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Ive seen the stock internals up close and person when they came through my block. The Rods leave alot to be desired!

The rod's are obviously the weakpoint of the short block. But I think it is way too soon to go after them.

Doesn't matter how strong the short block is, until the DI/coilpack/overheating detonation issue is resolved it is premature to build a short block. The issue is turning into an epidemic, if the root cause is poorly machined DI ports, gonna wish you had 2014 cylinder heads on that forged bottom end. IOW's blow a DI seal and a forged short block will blow up just as easy as a stock short block.

Good luck.
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:15 AM   #37
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AWDtuning splitting cases and installing forged internals prior to boosting.....so at this point is my warranty still good? LOL !.....EJ257 piston on left,..... 86 FA20 forged on right (lower compression) Arias....noticable smaller. Pauter forged rods.Crank race bearings.

NICE! Good luck with the build!

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Old 06-13-2013, 06:46 PM   #38
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The rod's are obviously the weakpoint of the short block. But I think it is way too soon to go after them.

Doesn't matter how strong the short block is, until the DI/coilpack/overheating detonation issue is resolved it is premature to build a short block. The issue is turning into an epidemic, if the root cause is poorly machined DI ports, gonna wish you had 2014 cylinder heads on that forged bottom end. IOW's blow a DI seal and a forged short block will blow up just as easy as a stock short block.

Good luck.
I definately agree with you... FWIW mine blew because of something unrelated to the strength of the rods, they were just the first thing to let go. I would have suspected a forged shortblock to do the same given the situation. Hmmm thats interesting regarding the DI, My car has never used the DI and i'm still up in the air about what i'm gonna do regarding the ports when my new motor goes together soon.
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:37 AM   #39
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Don't have a DI problem with my engine, I guess I'm lucky,....if I did it would of showed up along time ago,...I'm at 20psi of boost......with probably 50 dyno pulls....no overheating issues.....as far as building a short block forged,.... its common sense for my application IMHO.
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:37 AM   #40
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Time will most certainly tell the true story. I cant imagine beginning a 400+ project without including forged internals into the equation. The additional strength (durability) and lower CR (flexibility) make the cost decision a no brainer. I am looking for a ~275 solution with a focus on temperature management that can take multiple track sessions in the southeast without issue. Even at this modest output I am probably going to make the switch as I prefer to do things once and try to get it right the first time.
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