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Old 05-23-2013, 12:03 PM   #127
TemeCal
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This is pretty disheartening. I was looking forward to a nice, clean solution like this. But, I certainly won't be purchasing this product if there aren't any clear instructions. It sucks that you guys are having to figure this out on your own.

Hopefully it'll all get sorted out, and you guys will be up and running soon. I may possibly look into this in the future, if (and only if) EasyGo has provided adequate instructions and is willing to provide decent support. Having a nicely written DIY by a fellow forum member would be nice, but I don't think it's fair or reasonable to expect this. I guess I'm just a little pissed and disappointed in EasyGo.
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Old 05-23-2013, 03:13 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goodcjw2 View Post
I just get my easygo kit today and was able to wire the ignition harness. This part was kind of straight forward, except that the harness color labeling was totally wrong.

Thanks to 086A's post and diagram, I made the push button partially work.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...n+start&page=5

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...-S%20Alarm.pdf

However, can only use it to switch between "OFF", "ACC" and "ON", but not really start the engine.
I have not touch any wire related to ECU, maybe that's the obvious reason that I cannot start the engine.

Here is the wiring for the ignition I used:




Basically, it worked out like this:

Harness from easygo box ------>>> Harness connected to igntion

Thin yellow ------>>>Thin yellow
thin red ------>>> thick red
thin blue ------>>> thin blue
thick red ------>>>thick blue
thick brown ------>>>thin red
thick brown ------>>> thick brown

That's what worked for me, although there may be a better way.

Also, you must wire the line from the brake and put your foot on the brake or it will not start.

The wire I tapped for the brake was the brown and white wire seen at the bottom of the bundle of wires here:



It connects to pin 8 of the harness plugged into the ECU there with the grey clip around it. The tapped wire connects to the orange wire of the 16 pin harness which plugs into the easygo box (see the wiring diagram)

You can also try the light green wire coming out of pin 6 of the HD1 connector as suggested in the FRS document here (a very good resource)

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...t=remote+start

Edit: You also need the CAN high and Can Low hooked up, I used the light green (CANL) and pink wires (CANH) which is pins 13 and 14 of the D5 connector, which is the middle white connector in the picture to the right of the ECU.

If you have all that hooked up correctly, I believe it should start as long as the key is in the ignition or you have the immobilizer bypass hooked up correctly.

Last edited by Chaetagnath; 05-23-2013 at 04:36 PM.
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:03 PM   #129
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Chaetagnath, thanks a lot.

I will get to work on the remaining wiring later today. I am just considering using clutch paddle instead of brake paddle to enable engine start. I will post an update when I got it done.
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:04 PM   #130
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Chaetagnath, thanks a lot.

I will get to work on the remaining wiring later today. I am just considering using clutch paddle instead of brake paddle to enable engine start. I will post an update when I got it done.
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:32 PM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goodcjw2 View Post
Chaetagnath, thanks a lot.

I will get to work on the remaining wiring later today. I am just considering using clutch paddle instead of brake paddle to enable engine start. I will post an update when I got it done.

I like the clutch idea, let me know if it works.
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:46 AM   #132
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I have an update on the clutch.

right up the clutch, there two harness. the fellow/pink cable at white clutch is the one used by OEM system to detect whether the clutch paddle is engaged or not. I tried to unplug the cable, then my car will not start at all.

However, that harness is really far away and the origin cable from EasyGo system can barely reach it.

According to the BRZ wire diagram, the yellow pink cable runs to PIN 10 of D48 on the Certification ECU Assembly. I have no clue where this harness is.
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Old 05-24-2013, 06:20 AM   #133
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Not much progress today. got push button start work with temporary brake wiring.

However, cannot figure out how to make the immobilizer bypass work correct. need to plug in the key.

BTW, could someone actually shares how to tap wire into those harness properly? Thanks a lot.
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:26 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goodcjw2 View Post
Not much progress today. got push button start work with temporary brake wiring.

However, cannot figure out how to make the immobilizer bypass work correct. need to plug in the key.

BTW, could someone actually shares how to tap wire into those harness properly? Thanks a lot.
when tapping into wires, this is what i always use. ignore the price, but thats it in the pic.

https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...ed=0CHUQ8wIwAA
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:35 PM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goodcjw2 View Post
Not much progress today. got push button start work with temporary brake wiring.

However, cannot figure out how to make the immobilizer bypass work correct. need to plug in the key.

BTW, could someone actually shares how to tap wire into those harness properly? Thanks a lot.
I used 18-22 gauge t-Taps (got em at radio shack)
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:45 PM   #136
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any update on if they have better instructions for install???
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:57 PM   #137
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any update on if they have better instructions for install???

They don't, and I don't think they plan on doing so. However, At some point I will try to put together a DIY to help everyone out. However, I will be out of town for a little while, so it may be a couple of weeks.

So, for the most part I have everything working now (well except the trunk latch, but I am sure I will have the sorted out soon). The door lock/unlock requires a positive signal to trigger (contrary to some of the information out there), and the output from the Easygo box is negative, so you need to wire relays to invert the polarity to the door lock wires.

Also, according to one of the Easygo reps I have spoken with, there are plans in the future to integrate the system with smart phone start capability (there is a harness which currently does nothing and is reserved for future upgrades).
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:12 AM   #138
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good to know your progress

I haven't figure out how to make the immobiliser bypass work properly, can you provide any tips on that topic? Thanks in advance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaetagnath View Post
They don't, and I don't think they plan on doing so. However, At some point I will try to put together a DIY to help everyone out. However, I will be out of town for a little while, so it may be a couple of weeks.

So, for the most part I have everything working now (well except the trunk latch, but I am sure I will have the sorted out soon). The door lock/unlock requires a positive signal to trigger (contrary to some of the information out there), and the output from the Easygo box is negative, so you need to wire relays to invert the polarity to the door lock wires.

Also, according to one of the Easygo reps I have spoken with, there are plans in the future to integrate the system with smart phone start capability (there is a harness which currently does nothing and is reserved for future upgrades).
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:20 AM   #139
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Looks like it's more hassle than its worth... at least at the moment, and for someone not terribly good with electronics.
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:45 AM   #140
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This looks like a nice set up, kinda off topic but maybe they could simply things for us and give us some digital HVAC controls. If Dual isnt possible it would still be nice to have the OEM of the Limtied BRZ and release series Dual system.

I am sure it would be cheaper and much easier install then us ordering...wich I am on the list for all the release series parts to be ordred once availible from Toyota.

It would be great if they could keep it nice and clean and similiar to OEM or even better
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