Building audio setup. Need amplifier advice from the experts

[Kayzer Soze]

Ordered the v9. Now just gotta make sure this box will fit at 11 inch height
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300893482719?redirect=mobile

That and wires all I'm missing and hopefully last weekend of month ill be installing with my cousin

[Sbeezy]

good deal! hope you enjoy it!

[Sbeezy]

check out skyhigh audio they have good prices on wire
http://stores.ebay.com/Sky-High-Car-Audio-Cable

[Kayzer Soze]

Thanks for all the help guys. Can't wait to post pics when installed

For wires, I was looking at kits. Are knukoceptz worth the 63$ or should I go with a 15$ no name kit (copper wire)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KnuKonceptz-...item589420d409

[Sbeezy]

Originally Posted by Kayzer Soze

Thanks for all the help guys. Can't wait to post pics when installed

For wires, I was looking at kits. Are knukoceptz worth the 63$ or should I go with a 15$ no name kit (copper wire)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KnuKonceptz-...item589420d409

Go knu who's the no name?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

[Skywgn1]

Originally Posted by Sbeezy

2 8's will have more surface area than a 10 and just a little shy of 1 12.

The 8's may have more surface area combined but will not be able to go lower in the frequency range. Below is a list of what I had in my last truck. I believe I have some build pictures in one of my photo albums listed on my page. Truck was in the SuperStreet No-Wall class and hit 143.4 db's. Just make sure you have more power than you need because the sound quality will be cleaner (based on thd).

2007 2500HD Classic Crewcab longbed
AFE Stage II, MBRP turbo back exhaust, Edge Juice with Attitude, 12" Bulletproof Suspension lift with matching Atlas leafs in rear, 37x13.50x22 Kuhmo RV MT wrapped around 22x9.5 Helo's, cross-drilled and slotted rotors, ceramic pads, HID dims & brights, Billet grille, Amp Research steps, rollpan, Mag-Hytec diff cover, rhino on sub box and bed, 7,000 watt stereo w/ 4 15L7's in the bed 143.4 db in last competition. 5 tv's, Old school Symmetry with 28 band EQ and d card. Suede headliner and amp rack

[Gir]

Originally Posted by Sbeezy

2 8's will have more surface area than a 10 and just a little shy of 1 12.

Which would be great, if it was a single sub, but being separate subs means they are restricted to 8" frequencies. They can just make the frequencies louder.

[Sbeezy]

The enclosure will determine how low they get its all in the box

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

[Sbeezy]

Originally Posted by Skywgn1

2007 2500HD Classic Crewcab longbed
AFE Stage II, MBRP turbo back exhaust, Edge Juice with Attitude, 12" Bulletproof Suspension lift with matching Atlas leafs in rear, 37x13.50x22 Kuhmo RV MT wrapped around 22x9.5 Helo's, cross-drilled and slotted rotors, ceramic pads, HID dims & brights, Billet grille, Amp Research steps, rollpan, Mag-Hytec diff cover, rhino on sub box and bed, 7,000 watt stereo w/ 4 15L7's in the bed 143.4 db in last competition. 5 tv's, Old school Symmetry with 28 band EQ and d card. Suede headliner and amp rack

What does this have to do with anything?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

[chadstyle]

Originally Posted by Sbeezy

What does this have to do with anything?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

And he had 4 15" L7s on 7K and only hit 143?? I hit 148 with two DD 8's on 6k...but that's not what the OP is after.

I really like the Alpine PDX 5 channel amps and the JL HD series 5 channel is also a great choice in a FRS/BRZ. Try to keep a small, lightweight footprint that doesn't tax the factory electrical system too hard.

Don't waste money on a cap...junk!! If you're really pulling a lot of juice, install a second battery (small one) near the amp. It adds a little weight but the difference is huge when compared to a cap. My last suggestion, if you care at all about the handling characteristics of your car, keep all the equipment as low as possible. If you can ditch the spare tire and build your enclosure and amp rack (and any processors or power distribution) below the factory floor you won't notice a difference in handling. The idea is to keep a low center of gravity. If you want something that hits hard and still fits in the spare well, go with a JL TW5 woofer. Its a 13" sub with 7" voice coil and only 3.5" deep or so... Some nice components and a proper 5 channel amp with levels and crossovers matched up nicely should really jam is such a small car.

[Sbeezy]

1508's chad? I miss my dd9512g in my chambered tline I could pull 143s all day with a 2006 T1kbd because the box was a pressure whore. But op if you want 8's that go low and don't mind making sacrifices in the space department check out pwk designs @ pwkdesigns.com and fill out a paf and be very descriptive of what you would like the enclosure to do he will get you right. Pete is as awesome as Mr klipsch when it comes to acoustic design and they also share the same initials lol.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

[wheelhaus]

Originally Posted by Gir

I do not envy anyone trying to put an amp under a seat in this car. Also, that means you have to pull the seat out to adjust the tune, which is a little annoying.

QFT. I originally had a PDX 1.400 and 1.600, each under a seat with all tuning done from the head unit so I didn't need access to the amps once gains were set. They would not fit under the seats in the BRZ without raising the seat rails, and they're pretty small amps... It might have been possible if the seat was kept in a certain position, but I didn't want to deal with having a friend jump in the car, slam the seat back and gouge the amp all to hell. I ended up replacing them with a single V9 and fabricated a carbon fiber rack/shelf. Now it lives right up underneath the deck lid in the trunk, tucked as tightly as possible. The V9's front panel would only be easier to access if it was mounted in the dash, lol.

[chadstyle]

Originally Posted by Sbeezy

1508's chad? I miss my dd9512g in my chambered tline I could pull 143s all day with a 2006 T1kbd because the box was a pressure whore. But op if you want 8's that go low and don't mind making sacrifices in the space department check out pwk designs @ pwkdesigns.com and fill out a paf and be very descriptive of what you would like the enclosure to do he will get you right. Pete is as awesome as Mr klipsch when it comes to acoustic design and they also share the same initials lol.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Yes sir!! Funny cause I almost wrote "1508s" but figured I'd lose everyone right there. Glad to see I'm not the only one that has had success with those drivers.

I grew up in Miami in the early 90's...I know all about bass wars and having the loudest/lowest beat on the street. We were 10 years ahead of the rest of the country when it came to box design and walls of woofers and multiple alternator setups. I started with 8 12s in my Mazda B2200 Extended Cab then went to 4 15s in a wall before settling in on 16 10" drivers on 4 2250 Orion Beasts and 4 225 HCCAs on my doors/kicks. This was in 1995 and I was just below the 160 DB mark...those were the days

Now that we're way off topic, back to your regularly scheduled thread.

[mit_peid]

Originally Posted by Gir

I do not envy anyone trying to put an amp under a seat in this car. Also, that means you have to pull the seat out to adjust the tune, which is a little annoying.

I agree with this. I wanted to install an amp under the passenger seat, but there is barely maybe 2" of clearance under the seats so I had to install it on my sub enclosure. My setup looks okay because it is somewhat out of the way visually, but there are better places to hide the amp and still ensure adequate cooling and accessibility for tuning. The most stealthiest place I've seen someone install some amps in a FRS/BRZ was with some custom fabricated bars under the rear deck. He also used some really amps. There's no way I will be able install my RF P500X4D in that location.