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| Cosmetic Maintenance (Wash, Wax, Detailing, Body Repairs) Wash, Wax, Details, Repairs |
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#43 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Drives: WRB BRZ
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 109
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#44 | |
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Smokin on Dat Endo
Join Date: Jan 2013
Drives: 2013 Scion FR-S Whiteout
Location: Fullerton, CA
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Quote:
i.e. wax hood, wait a tiny bit, remove wax, on to the next section
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| The Following User Says Thank You to eddieEndo For This Useful Post: | tuckdaddy (03-30-2013) |
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#45 |
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Because Racecar
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: 2013 Asphalt FRS
Location: Boerne, McQueeney, San Antonio -TX
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#46 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: SWP BRZ Limited
Location: SoCal
Posts: 78
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Should I still be waxing and clay barring if I had my car opti-guarded? And if so, would the procedure be any different then an non-opticoated car?
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#47 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Drives: '13 SSM BRZ Limited 6MT
Location: Orange County, CA
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just got my BRZ and will be doing my first wash. I"m thinking about doing it with these steps:
1. Wash with Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo 2. Claybar with Meguiars Clay Kit 3a. Wash with Optimum No Rinse Wash/Wax OR 3b. Wax with Eagle One Wax as you Dry In the future, i'm just going to use the ONR Wash/Wax only every other week and clay every six months. I'm trying to make the whole washing process simple and quick. |
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#48 |
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'Senior' Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: 13 FR-S,08 Mustang Bullitt,06 MX-5
Location: Southeastern CT
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A few related things - I've been using the clay / wax routine for many years.
1. To know when to clay, put a thin plastic bag over your hand and very lightly rub the surface. If it feels rough, it's time to clay. 2. If your car is clean you can clay right over wax, no need to strip it or remove it. Use the detail spray and the clay will pull any contaminants right through the wax. The clay will not remove the wax (saves a lot of time). But you will have to re-apply a thin coat of wax wherever you clayed to fill in the 'pores' left by the removed contaminants. 3. If your clay ever falls out of your hand and touches the ground, throw it away. Not worth taking a chance on scratches to save a few bucks. 4. You can also use plain water as a lubricant for clay but it's better to use a detail spray as it has more actual lubricants in it and will keep any contaminants from scratching the surface. I use the cheap Meguiars spray and it works fine. And use plenty of it - if the clay 'drags' or leaves a residue, you are not using enough lubricant. Clay should just 'glide' over the surface with very little or no pressure. That's when it works the best.
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"You'll never know if you don't try" - Shinroko Momose |
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#49 | |
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First 86
Join Date: Jan 2012
Drives: Scion FRS Argento Automatic
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,127
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Life is short...NO BORING CARS |
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#50 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Drives: Whiteout FR-S MT
Location: Northridge, CA
Posts: 60
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I finished claying my car in 30 minutes with this thing. Works just as good if not better than clay bar. Plus takes so much less effort! Look on YouTube for some directions.
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Speedy-Surface-Prep-Fine-Grade/dp/B0091II8X8"]Speedy Surface Prep - Fine Grade : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame] |
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#51 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Drives: 2012 Grey TRD GT86, 2015 VW Golf R
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 1,572
Thanks: 666
Thanked 942 Times in 540 Posts
Mentioned: 62 Post(s)
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Quote:
It is a perfect example, as you mentioned, of a so-called expert having no idea. Seems like he has some magic "chemical" there though! .
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My fully loaded TRD86
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...760#post582760 |
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