King Tut's Full Blown Motorsports Stage 1 Base Turbo Kit Experience

[Huehuecoyotl]

just put the pick up on one of the black wires going to the coil packs, easy to find on passenger side

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by Huehuecoyotl

just put the pick up on one of the black wires going to the coil packs, easy to find on passenger side

That is where we picked it up, and I watched them change some settings on the dyno, but it still apparently didn't read RPM correctly. The same thing happened on my dyno plot from Titan Motorsports where it only shows the motor reving to 6500 RPM instead of 7500 RPM. Where did that last 1000 RPM and first 1000 RPM go?

[sw20kosh]

Originally Posted by King Tut

That is where we picked it up, and I watched them change some settings on the dyno, but it still apparently didn't read RPM correctly. The same thing happened on my dyno plot from Titan Motorsports where it only shows the motor reving to 6500 RPM instead of 7500 RPM. Where did that last 1000 RPM and first 1000 RPM go?

Could all these issues be caused by bad ignition parts or a bad ground? Could that be why the pick up is bad too?

On a previous vehicle boost and torque would get choppy and taper down. Found out later on that my coil pack or something was bad.

[crook]

Yeah definatly swap the MBC for an EBC I had never ending issues with spikes and tapering off due to my old MBC

[FullBlown]

Chris, You shouldn't have to run that much boost. Just look at your 8 psi curve compared to your 14psi. Looks to me that it needs more timing in it.

A motor that runs too much retard is just as bad as one that runs too much advance.

You cannot properly tune ignition timing on the street.

[Visconti]

Recently I've done a few more of these setups and have been able to run more ignition timing with high boost. im starting to wonder if all that blow by you've had since day one is something more serious.

That aside Im ust happy your car cold and hot starts correctly now

Send over some updated datalogs when you get a chance, include the cruise control stuff we discussed

Originally Posted by FullBlown

Chris, You shouldn't have to run that much boost. Just look at your 8 psi curve compared to your 14psi. Looks to me that it needs more timing in it.

A motor that runs too much retard is just as bad as one that runs too much advance.

You cannot properly tune ignition timing on the street.

Car won't accept anymore timing with out knocking.

Turning the boost down and raising the timing just caused more knock.

It clear that who ever put the car on the Dyno didn't load it up correctly..

Wavy dynosheet isn't from a lack of timing but from how the car is strapped.

Wish a datalog could have been produced when the car was on the Dyno and I hope some day we can see full dyno run.

A simple EBCS can be hooked up to prevent boost spikes and boost drop off.

When I was street tuning the car I had suggested putting in a larger spring.

That being said, you can 100% properly tune ignition timing on the street...

John

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by FullBlown

Chris, You shouldn't have to run that much boost. Just look at your 8 psi curve compared to your 14psi. Looks to me that it needs more timing in it.

A motor that runs too much retard is just as bad as one that runs too much advance.

You cannot properly tune ignition timing on the street.

I have to admit that when you look at the run from Titan Motorsports with a smoothing of 3 and the HP curve looks super smooth compared to my dyno at XXX Motorsports with the smoothing set even higher at 5. I also noticed that the HP curve didn't start looking really wavy until after around 5500 RPM when I set the smoothing to 1. I will push Will at Titan to see if I can get those dyno run files again so I can plot the runs together.

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by Visconti

Recently I've done a few more of these setups and have been able to run more ignition timing with high boost. im starting to wonder if all that blow by you've had since day one is something more serious.

That aside Im ust happy your car cold and hot starts correctly now

Send over some updated datalogs when you get a chance, include the cruise control stuff we discussed

Your street tune definitely improved the driveability. I will do a datalog specifically for the only remaining drivability issue I am having. I am also getting a 10 psi spring for my wastegate and will try running off just that to compare my boost curve, then I will try an electronic boost controller to see if it can improve the curve even more.

[Visconti]

Originally Posted by King Tut

Your street tune definitely improved the driveability. I will do a datalog specifically for the only remaining drivability issue I am having. I am also getting a 10 psi spring for my wastegate and will try running off just that to compare my boost curve, then I will try an electronic boost controller to see if it can improve the curve even more.

Sounds like a plan !

-John

[sw20kosh]

Originally Posted by Visconti

im starting to wonder if all that blow by you've had since day one is something more serious.

That aside Im ust happy your car cold and hot starts correctly now

John

I said earlier:

Could all these issues be caused by bad ignition parts or a bad ground? Could that be why the pick up is bad too?

On a previous vehicle boost and torque would get choppy and taper down. Found out later on that my coil pack or something was bad.

And I found a dyno chart. Was running 17 psi but it would taper off to 14 psi. by redline. It got choppy too in the higher rpms. My tuner couldn't figure out why it was doing this as the turbo was BIG, no knock, perfect timing and definitely shouldn't have been losing boost. The car also had terrible cold/warm start up issues. We tried for months to figure it out and in the end I sold the engine. Someone bought it and put it in their car with a new ignition pack (something like that) and it ran beautifully. Made 420 WHP with no loss in boost etc.

(notice how it gets choppy at 5.5k rpm?)

[mad_sb]

Originally Posted by Huehuecoyotl

just put the pick up on one of the black wires going to the coil packs, easy to find on passenger side

I just clipped the tach lead over both wires on the driver side rear (nearest the firewall) coil pack at both of the dynojets i have used so far and it worked perfectly.

[King Tut]

So I just had a thought as I was taking pictures of the tach signal wire for my AEM Failsafe gauge. Why not next time I go to the dyno just have them hook up to that wire instead of trying to get the signal off the coils? Any reason that wouldn't work?

[GTB/ZR-1]

Great thread...

[itdansharpe]

Dear king tut, I am in the middle of installing this kit, and ran into the threading issue you had with the brass T oil feed. What thread pitch did you run over it to make it fit?

Thanks!