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Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires.


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Old 02-26-2013, 03:27 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kochinopride View Post
I am running a P&L Turbo kit pushing about 300rwhp at the moment, I have 18"x8.5 in the front and 18"x9.5 in the rear. I did that because I have way too much power for the stock tires. On launch control, it keep spinning until 3rd-4th gear... I'm running 265's in the rear for more grip. Because I'm going to be pushing 450-500rwhp within the next 30-45days, I opted for 18x10 and 18x11 set up with the wide body kit... Plus I'll be upgrading to Toyo R888s as the tire set up. Staggered is the way to go
Nice! Which widebody are you going with?
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:32 PM   #30
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Lux-motion 2.0 wide body. They haven't published the final kit, because they're still building it and I'm first in line... so that'll be fun... (-_-)
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:32 PM   #31
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If you're going to increase traction, why only do the rear, when you can do the front too for minimal additional cost? It won't *hurt* you in any way, and gives you the flexibility to rotate tires.

The only reason to go staggered is because you simply cannot fit the rim/tire you want in the front.
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:36 PM   #32
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If you're going to increase traction, why only do the rear, when you can do the front too for minimal additional cost? It won't *hurt* you in any way, and gives you the flexibility to rotate tires.

The only reason to go staggered is because you simply cannot fit the rim/tire you want in the front.
Exactly why I went smaller on the front. I don't know the limitations on space, honestly. My Elise was running staggered on width and wheel size. 16"x6.5" and 17"x7.5".... once I went wider (and I was told it would clear), I ended up scraping the wheel liner and creating a hole! So I'm even more cautious on wheel sizes
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:39 PM   #33
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I went staggered for looks and also the cars that I drive occasionally (porsche cayman and bmw 535i f10) are also staggered and I'm more familiar with the grip/ correction with more throttle. Although my Rx8 was square and really really neutral and fun to throw around the mountains, I like the security of a little understeer just because I don't have the funds to fix it if i break it hehehe...

I could always just add stiffer sways in the rears to get more oversteer, but my set up right now has plenty of oversteer and I can still do donuts for days
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:10 PM   #34
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WWPD

What Would Porsche Do?
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:17 PM   #35
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WWPD

What Would Porsche Do?
2012 991 staggered 8.5 front and 11 rear.
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:26 PM   #36
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I'm going the same tire sizes but on a 8" and 9". I think it's about the perfect size set up without having to modify/look silly.

I'm not sure the fitment but the RFP1s with +45 sit very flush and you can put a lot of tire on them. I haven't seen the internal fitment with OEM struts.
I PM'ed someone with stock suspension on 17x9 +45 RPF1's with 245/40's and he said there is no room for any camber adjustment (camber bolts). I really want these wheels because they are light, inexpensive and decent looking. I don't think the 17x9 +45's will work with some BBK (like AP Sprint) and probably work best with coils so you can dial in some camber. +35 poke too much for me - i've looked at every +35 photo on this forum and the poke seems to vary widely even on the same rim.
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:36 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Amadeus View Post
I PM'ed someone with stock suspension on 17x9 +45 RPF1's with 245/40's and he said there is no room for any camber adjustment (camber bolts). I really want these wheels because they are light, inexpensive and decent looking. I don't think the 17x9 +45's will work with some BBK (like AP Sprint) and probably work best with coils so you can dial in some camber. +35 poke too much for me - i've looked at every +35 photo on this forum and the poke seems to vary widely even on the same rim.
Quick solution: Small spacers. Make sure you're getting at least 6 turns on your lugs. Get ARP extended studs if you're not getting enough turns. Under $100 for a full set.
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:12 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
Quick solution: Small spacers. Make sure you're getting at least 6 turns on your lugs. Get ARP extended studs if you're not getting enough turns. Under $100 for a full set.
/agree

With stronger longer studs it makes no difference. Lots of track racers and racecars use spacers all the time.
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:58 AM   #39
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well my goals are mainly going to be streetable a fun frs with some auto x and drift on the side. I know for sure I will eventually get a turbo kit looking to get around 350 whp. And I mainly want to use the car as a fun dd/week end warrior. I hate drag. Is Square still okay with this setup?

Everyone says if you go turbo get staggered but why? just because of the more grip? Cant i upgrade the tires and go a little wider and bigger and still be fine?
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Old 02-27-2013, 12:59 PM   #40
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I agree with @CSG Mike. You want as much grip in the front as possible, there's plenty of room for tire in the rear. ESPECIALLY on stock power, a staggered setup is purely for looks.

The only time I can see doing a staggered setup for a performance application on this car is to get more grip in the rear on a very high power setup when the fronts are already maxed out size wise.

There are better ways to tune the limit characteristics of a car than forcefully limiting grip via tire size, especially in the front.

Think about it this way. 225 front 255 rear. The car pushes into corners but is very stable under power since it has a lot of rubber in the rear. Now. Take the fronts and replace them with 255's. You've done nothing to sacrifice the rear grip, but your front grip has potentially improved. You still have great grip under power because again, your rear grip hasn't changed. But now, if you wanted to, you could tune your suspension to have similar limit characteristics as your 225 front setup, but your front tires are breaking traction because of the suspension setup and not because they've reached their ultimate grip level sooner than the rears due to their smaller width. Your new wider front tires are giving you the same driving characteristics and at least equal grip, while having an easier time at it. This means lower tire temps, longer tire life, and a system that as you learn to drive faster and wish for a more neutral car, you can tune it to be that way with a few small mods instead of buying a new pair of front wheels.

Also. Comparing to Porsche or any other sports car is pointless. The 911 is a particularly bad example because it's weight distribution is the polar opposite of this car's with more than 60% of it's weight on the rear wheels and much of that being behind the wheels. Of course it runs staggered, because there's no other way to get the thing to handle in any kind of normal way.

Cheers
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:45 PM   #41
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at what hp are staggered rims/tires needed
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Old 02-28-2013, 05:16 PM   #42
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tire rotation as a reason not to go staggered is mostly a myth.

generally it just means you end up replacing your rear tires twice as often and your front tires half as often. unless your rear tires are drastically more expensive than the fronts for whatever reason it all nets out.
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