What Brand of Oil is in your BRZ/FRS?

[roddy]

Originally Posted by gmookher

Here's is my 2 cents, revisiting this thread as I was asked to by a member to comment here:

Sorry, and no offense, but the Castrol edge is at the very bottom of my list that why you 'need' the lucas, which I will pass on as well in this car, but I use it in a low compression pushrod motor like my truck-the lucas is good for older motors loosing compression, its thick stuff,and the Edge is a no go in my book, its got a VI of 166.

I also dont see the VI on the Pennzoil as worth buying in the 180s, but its a great oil if you get the top pennzoil product, is that platinum or ultra, I forget, and dont really care.

If I am gonna go that low in oil quality, I am on the idemitsu, its cheaper than motul or eneos, and far better than anything at walmart-none of that belongs in my 12.6:1 motor that is getting FI. even in a NA motor, nothing can hurt from using a top notch oil.

All oils are not equal. Thats like saying store brand soda, c&c, coke and pepsi all taste the same, they do not. Cole is the real thing, the one that ste MJ's hair on fire, the one they all imitate.

For motul, the eco lite 8100 is sweet. Good stuff.

Sustina is in my motor this very minute, which is on a dyno now.SUSTINA W BASE base oil has an ultra-high viscosity index (229 in 0W-20), try and top that. No its not cheap.

Redlines base stocks are no match for motul or eneos, no boron, as weak as AMSoil if you ask me. Sorry again, not an AMS fan. Please dont hate, k?

I dont think it is about my opinion, or yours, while you can use whatever cocktail you want,whatever oil, and flo rates, the engine was tested an built at the gunma plant on Subaru oil, what you fill it with there after is on you. I like the SM but am betting it comes with subarus' new SN that I dislike, but its not bad oil at all. Its idemitsu SN. Not a repeat in my garage, but for inexpensive back up oil, it okay to keep one sitting around.

I buy mine here since the nearest dealer is 45 minutes away, good to keep at the house thanks to the UPS guy when I am not planning a trip to PHX pr FLG in the near future, as was proved while I was testing an oil cooler and a unclamped line blew off, good to have extra sitting around. I was out of the subaru SM, which is my DD oil. I setup up to motul 8100 and sustina for track use since they are banging formulations with stellar VI. I am not here to debate why or whether VI matters, so not trying to start a debate. As I said, I'm chiming since a member asked me to share my thoughts.


what I like or what you use and like, really doesnt matter- this is chemisty, its about VI, and flow rates, and wear packs and base stocks, not who likes what football team-this isnt a fan sport guys.

I'm not able to subscribe to the using thicker oil is better camp. you get more wear using the wrong oil. fact, and have yet to be convinced by any data otherwise. what joey does at the track is niether here or there. No offense if your name is Joey!

these arent yesterdays motors or dino oils from the 70s that break down with heat. you do more injustice running too thick a synthetic oil, the right oil i sthe right one. simple, track, dyno, whatever, use the best oil you can afford, that is my advice. most good oils run $8 to $11 bucks usually, unless you find a deal, but I havent found motul or sustina for less.

You should know that. use a good oil, and change it out between 5k and 7500 depending on usage, and you will be well within the oils performance limits, most oils can go further yet.

there is a reason good oils like motuls, sustina, and dealer oil, costs what it does, you get what you pay for when buying oil and if youre able to select group IV technology, blends that have the best packs will get you the most power, best mileage and least wear.

If you want to better understand the test process for Oil spec tests, see here from API

Ummm... I think it was Pepsi with the MJ's hair on fire thing.







Just sayin'.

[JoeBoxer]

I ran the Motul 8100 on the first change an 300v on the second, next change will probably be 2 liters of 300v and the rest 8100.

[Amadeus]

Not to flame here - oil is a hotly contested subject but I made a couple of charts below with some of the popular and recommended oils from this thread. The first is sorted by Viscosity Index with the highest number being best. The second chart is sorted by KV @ 40*C which is cold starting viscosity. All are within a point at 100*C operating temp. Eneos Sustina clearly is tops in both charts but at a premium price. Idemitsu SN (Subaru oil?) is relatively inexpensive and has very good numbers. I couldn't get any numbers for the Toyota SN except Viscosity Index and the one UOA (used oil analysis) I saw on BITOG (bobistheoilguy.com) showed a marked reduction in Moly from the SM formula. The bottom five share similar numbers. So here is my question to some of the more knowledgeable forum members:

If we are looking at oils that have similar properties (say the bottom 5) what criteria should we be using to distinguish between them. Do we look at the base oil, TBN, Moly and other additives, UOA's on forums? How are you choosing your oil? Motul 8100 is recommended here but based on the chart Amsoil looks better. If there is a list of criteria after VI what would the order of that list be?

Currently I'm running Toyota SN because that's what the dealer installed and because I hadn't made up my mind until today what to switch to. I will probably run a UOA for sh*ts and giggles on the ToyoSN just to see.

I'm not trying to start a sh*t slinging war just genuinely interested in how people came to their decision on oil....

[JoeBoxer]

I need to send off the 300v in mine for testing on the next change, i asked someone who had experience with both and he said the Sustina was really good, just not on the level of 300v but i don't have any facts to back it up.

[Sportsguy83]

Every single time I make my mind on an oil, something new comes up and throws it out the window... Though, this @Amadeus chart looks good. Thanks for sharing!

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Amadeus

Not to flame here - oil is a hotly contested subject but I made a couple of charts below with some of the popular and recommended oils from this thread. The first is sorted by Viscosity Index with the highest number being best. The second chart is sorted by KV @ 40*C which is cold starting viscosity. All are within a point at 100*C operating temp. Eneos Sustina clearly is tops in both charts but at a premium price. Idemitsu SN (Subaru oil?) is relatively inexpensive and has very good numbers. I couldn't get any numbers for the Toyota SN except Viscosity Index and the one UOA (used oil analysis) I saw on BITOG (bobistheoilguy.com) showed a marked reduction in Moly from the SM formula. The bottom five share similar numbers. So here is my question to some of the more knowledgeable forum members:

If we are looking at oils that have similar properties (say the bottom 5) what criteria should we be using to distinguish between them. Do we look at the base oil, TBN, Moly and other additives, UOA's on forums? How are you choosing your oil? Motul 8100 is recommended here but based on the chart Amsoil looks better. If there is a list of criteria after VI what would the order of that list be?

Currently I'm running Toyota SN because that's what the dealer installed and because I hadn't made up my mind until today what to switch to. I will probably run a UOA for sh*ts and giggles on the ToyoSN just to see.

I'm not trying to start a sh*t slinging war just genuinely interested in how people came to their decision on oil....

40C isn't cold starting viscosity and is 104F. The cold cranking abilities of 0W-x oil is measured at -35C.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/coldcrank.htm
If you want to see the actual viscosity at 0C/32F, plug the numbers into a viscosity graph/calculator.
http://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html

I wouldn't pick any one number when it comes to choosing an oil. It depends on your particular application and even then it may not matter as much. I think a lot of people pick their favorite brand since there isn't much data from these cars. Most of the uoa's are still during the break-in period.

-Dennis

[Amadeus]

Cool links - especially the Widman one - thanks.

[shaggy]

Just ordered 6 quarts of Eneos Sustina 0w20? $77.92 with shipping Going to hit 1000 miles sometime this week so I'll change the oil when it and the fumoto valve get here. Also just ordered the Motul 300 75w90 gear oil. I just figure if I'm going to lift the damn car, might as well change out everything.

Shaggy

[tonystewart]

Where did you purchase from?

[SubaSteve]

Eneos due to it being the choice of initial d! I'm serious go back and watch the live action and count how many times you see eneos plastered somewhere in the gas station.

[Laika]

Originally Posted by SubaSteve

Eneos due to it being the choice of initial d! I'm serious go back and watch the live action and count how many times you see eneos plastered somewhere in the gas station.

I didn't realize this until I saw it for the third or fourth time. It's true though.

So I switched over to Eneos (non sustina) 0W20 a few days ago and I'm kind of worried.

I have about 200 miles on my current tank, I put in the Eneos 100 miles ago. Before the Eneos I was on Amsoil SS. My fuel economy said 26.7mpg (over those ~100 miles) I reset that when I changed the oil and now I'm sitting at 29.5mpg...Same driving conditions and over ~100 miles. On cold starts the fuel economy doesn't seem to go down anywhere near as much on the Eneos.

Why was the Amsoil so (dare I say) bad? I only had it in for 4k miles. My fuel economy has been declining since I first went to Amsoil but I chalked that up to my winter tires + winter gas.

[xwd]

I may switch from the 0w-30 Motul x-lite to the 0w-20 Eneos Sustina next change.

[smbrm]

Just add to the debate, VI is not really relevant if you don't understand the permanent shear stability or the HTHS of the oil.

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by smbrm

Just add to the debate, VI is not really relevant if you don't understand the permanent shear stability or the HTHS of the oil.

I concur.

Also note that only a one point difference at 40C makes a bigger difference in the VI number than a point difference at 100C. That chart above sort of illustrates this as the Sustina has both the lowest 40C and 100C KV. If my engine were (theoretically) designed to run at 100C between 8-9 cSt then the Sustina would be a poor option.

I personally take VI cum grano salis and think it's not the best rating to base judgement on.

What I find great about these long, entertaining and often educational oil analysis debates is just when we're thinking we've got our fingers on the button the ALMS teams go run 24 hours endurance races on engines that make several hundred horse power on straight 0 weight oil. I love when auto racing does that.

Is anyone here obsessing this much about he quality of the food that goes in their mouths as we do about oil? I bet if we all focused on that a little more we, instead of our engines, would all perform better and last a little longer. just sayin'