Wonky rear camber - Page 2 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

Toyobaru808 · 12-07-2012, 05:44 PM

What about DMEs? I want to wait for whitelines but it would be nice if we had a price estimate b/c if theyre priced over 600 id be turned off

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

bpracer · 12-08-2012, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Supermassive

...Some people will say that the threaded rod is a weak point, but after seeing the Cusco arms and GT Spec which are just stamped and welded steel vs. the machined block of aluminum with steel fittings that comprise the AP unit, the extra cost is worth it.
...

I would have to agree with being a bit nervous about that design. The threaded rod joint too far in the middle of the control arm and it will flex and fail on the threaded part of the adjustment rod. There's a reason they put rod ends at the very end of the other suspension arms.

I saw a similar setup for upper control arms. Easy to adjust, looked way over-built, but it failed because a threaded rod shouldn't be in any kind of bending moment.

wparsons · 12-09-2012, 10:09 AM

I would rather have the "weak" point (threaded rod) inboard of the shock mounting rather than between the wheel and the shock.

All the force exerted on the shock is going to be from the wheel, if you put the weak point between those two then you have a potential failure point. With it inboard like these the only load it's carrying is the load required to keep the arm in place plus any side to side loads.

bpracer · 12-09-2012, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wparsons

I would rather have the "weak" point (threaded rod) inboard of the shock mounting rather than between the wheel and the shock.

All the force exerted on the shock is going to be from the wheel, if you put the weak point between those two then you have a potential failure point. With it inboard like these the only load it's carrying is the load required to keep the arm in place plus any side to side loads.

I agree with what you are saying, but the in-board rod end design in this case is not as "in-board" as I would want.

Dezoris · 12-09-2012, 01:18 PM

My camber was. -0.1 rear left -1.1 rear right. Had the whiteline rear upper control arm eccentric bushings installed.

Boosted · 12-09-2012, 01:53 PM

I used whitelines rear chamber kit. I have a even -2.3 on both sides. I have buddy club racing coilovers. The upper control arm kit is great but the old part is press fitted so its a pain to remove.

-Alex

gdrider77 · 12-10-2012, 02:55 PM

So whats a good number we should be looking for? I currently have Eibach sportlines and -2 on rear left, -2.4 rear right. Was looking at adding the whileline bushings, will that get me back to .0?

Thanks

JoeBoxer · 12-10-2012, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gdrider77

So whats a good number we should be looking for? I currently have Eibach sportlines and -2 on rear left, -2.4 rear right. Was looking at adding the whileline bushings, will that get me back to .0?

Thanks

You don't want to be at 0 camber, i am about -1.5 on the rear which is pretty conservative but i don't have as much drop as you. What you have actually isn't terrible is that with you in the car?

gdrider77 · 12-10-2012, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeBoxer

You don't want to be at 0 camber, i am about -1.5 on the rear which is pretty conservative but i don't have as much drop as you. What you have actually isn't terrible is that with you in the car?

Thats with the printout the dealer gave me, how can i check with myself in the car?

JoeBoxer · 12-10-2012, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gdrider77

Thats with the printout the dealer gave me, how can i check with myself in the car?

It won't change much with your weight in the driver seat but if it closened the gap any at all i probably would be ok with it. What's the toe look like?

SubieNate · 12-10-2012, 06:27 PM

Do we really need more than a degree or so of static camber in the rear with the multilink setup? They're supposed to have better dynamic camber curves than a McPherson correct?

Nathan

Surok · 12-10-2012, 06:51 PM

threaded rods just scare me now.. i once had an R34 GTR go off in front of me on some touge when his rear ikeya formula adjustable arm threaded rod end sheared off. scared me for life.

gdrider77 · 12-11-2012, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeBoxer

It won't change much with your weight in the driver seat but if it closened the gap any at all i probably would be ok with it. What's the toe look like?

This is the printout from the dealer.

JoeBoxer · 12-11-2012, 12:58 PM

Get some oem camber bolts for the front you need some negative camber up there. Rear is a judgement call I'd probably get some spc lower control arms to bring it back down to -1.8 or so.

12-09-2012, 01:18 PM	#19
Dezoris Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Drives: FR-S Location: IL Posts: 2,857 Thanks: 519 Thanked 2,998 Times in 1,095 Posts Mentioned: 159 Post(s)	My camber was. -0.1 rear left -1.1 rear right. Had the whiteline rear upper control arm eccentric bushings installed. __________________ SAVAGEGEESE

12-09-2012, 01:53 PM	#20
Boosted Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Drives: 13 brz, 06 STI Location: Mid-Atlantic region Posts: 268 Thanks: 59 Thanked 135 Times in 82 Posts Mentioned: 13 Post(s)	I used whitelines rear chamber kit. I have a even -2.3 on both sides. I have buddy club racing coilovers. The upper control arm kit is great but the old part is press fitted so its a pain to remove. -Alex __________________ 2013 BRZ Limited build: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...d=1#post586737 2006 STI- lots of go fast goodies 551whp/491 Tq on 93(weekend car) 1988 CRX si- b16A1 (Sold) RIP 2003 WRX

12-10-2012, 02:55 PM	#21
gdrider77 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Drives: Subaru BRZ Limited Location: Denver, CO Posts: 623 Thanks: 243 Thanked 263 Times in 157 Posts Mentioned: 19 Post(s)	So whats a good number we should be looking for? I currently have Eibach sportlines and -2 on rear left, -2.4 rear right. Was looking at adding the whileline bushings, will that get me back to .0? Thanks __________________

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12-07-2012, 05:44 PM	#15
Toyobaru808 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: FR-S Location: Hawaii Posts: 112 Thanks: 22 Thanked 14 Times in 13 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s)	What about DMEs? I want to wait for whitelines but it would be nice if we had a price estimate b/c if theyre priced over 600 id be turned off Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

12-10-2012, 06:27 PM	#25
SubieNate Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Drives: 2013 FR-S Ultramarine Location: Temecula, CA Posts: 959 Thanks: 288 Thanked 560 Times in 269 Posts Mentioned: 6 Post(s)	Do we really need more than a degree or so of static camber in the rear with the multilink setup? They're supposed to have better dynamic camber curves than a McPherson correct? Nathan

12-10-2012, 06:51 PM	#26
Surok Wise old man Join Date: Jun 2012 Drives: 86 GTS Location: Sydney Posts: 1,003 Thanks: 999 Thanked 240 Times in 161 Posts Mentioned: 7 Post(s)	threaded rods just scare me now.. i once had an R34 GTR go off in front of me on some touge when his rear ikeya formula adjustable arm threaded rod end sheared off. scared me for life.

12-11-2012, 12:58 PM	#28
JoeBoxer Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: Whiteout FR-S Location: Arkansas Posts: 4,154 Thanks: 1,666 Thanked 1,627 Times in 997 Posts Mentioned: 72 Post(s)	Get some oem camber bolts for the front you need some negative camber up there. Rear is a judgement call I'd probably get some spc lower control arms to bring it back down to -1.8 or so.

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