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Old 12-02-2012, 11:49 AM   #15
Ch3cho86
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Originally Posted by Superhatch View Post
I was trying to sat that the muffler delete shows almost no gains in hp in any of the tests I've seen, and paying nearly 300 for sound seems a bit of a waste to me. The tips aren't likely to change the sound to something deeper since they are just run over the smaller pipe, so you paid for all show no go when there are options out there for not too much more that could give you show and go.

Also, if you deleted your muffler, whats the dB difference between a single and dual muffler delete? (which is in essence what you'r doing with the Apex'i part)

Cliffs: Save a little more and buy an exhaust.
I'm not saying that tips change the exhaust sound. For me there not cheap option since I live in PR the shipping and handling is a lot higher than the States, so a simple axleback muffler that the cheapest one is $500 to $600 + the S&H over $280, near $800 for a axle back.
And like always this is just an Option, if is affordable to pay for a Branded Exhaust Go for it, if not go for a custom one. Here in the island the FR-S base price is $29,995 and the payment is a high compared with the states price so an exhaust that cost more than the payment, for me is not an option
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:55 PM   #16
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A muffler delete has headache inducing, ear destroying resonance/droning in the 2-3000 rpm range. This is further exacerbated by taking out the spare/jack/tools.

It really sounds terrible. It is however what I use at the track for HPDE as the weight savings and potentially top end hp gains are desired. Stock muffler goes right back on when I get home from the track.
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:10 PM   #17
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It looks rice with the small tube inside the large tip.
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:57 PM   #18
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WTF! Are you thinking that I installed the tips without cutting the tail pipe?? Or do you?? That was a picture before I installed the tips. ThAts why you see my hand holding the Tip!!!
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Old 12-03-2012, 10:32 PM   #19
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Tips after installation


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Old 12-04-2012, 12:23 AM   #20
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Uhhhhhh...why not do an electric exhaust cut out? Then you don't have a goofy fucking valve that has a cable plumbed into the car. You could of even slapped the tips on your stock exhaust. But this is FT86 club and everyone is trying to be different I guess.
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:31 AM   #21
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Electric exhaust cutout are not reliable, I saw in many forums that most of exhaust cutout motor just works for about 9 to 12 month then they need to buy a replacement valve motor. I came from 9 years driving my rav4 and about 6 years ago I installed a Volvo throttle body attached into the exhaust and it worked great after all those 6 years
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:59 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ch3cho86 View Post
Electric exhaust cutout are not reliable, I saw in many forums that most of exhaust cutout motor just works for about 9 to 12 month then they need to buy a replacement valve motor. I came from 9 years driving my rav4 and about 6 years ago I installed a Volvo throttle body attached into the exhaust and it worked great after all those 6 years
Bro I sent you a PM, very interesting job!
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:20 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sw20kosh View Post
A muffler delete has headache inducing, ear destroying resonance/droning in the 2-3000 rpm range. This is further exacerbated by taking out the spare/jack/tools.

It really sounds terrible. It is however what I use at the track for HPDE as the weight savings and potentially top end hp gains are desired. Stock muffler goes right back on when I get home from the track.
I disagree, at least with my Berk dual delete, I experience no in-cabin drone at all unless I lift completely off the gas pedal above 4k rpms, even then it's not bad. Part throttle driving and highway cruising it's quiet no matter what engine speed. It's only loud when it's idling cold or at WOT and after it has warmed up it idles quiet with just a little bit of extra rumble over stock. I've left mine on with no real desire to swap the stock suitcase back on after track events.

I think some people just have sensitive ears. In that case I think the WORK dual delete with resonator would be a better choice.
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Old 12-04-2012, 08:42 PM   #24
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You're right Alt_brz. In highway its quiet near as stock. This weekend I'm going to the muffler shop to get the Cat out ( test pipe) . Before installing the test pipe I will take a video before and after the test pipe
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Old 12-08-2012, 02:31 PM   #25
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Today I went to the muffler shop and got installed a custom Test Pipe


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Old 12-08-2012, 03:57 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sw20kosh View Post
A muffler delete has headache inducing, ear destroying resonance/droning in the 2-3000 rpm range. This is further exacerbated by taking out the spare/jack/tools.

It really sounds terrible. It is however what I use at the track for HPDE as the weight savings and potentially top end hp gains are desired. Stock muffler goes right back on when I get home from the track.

I daily drive mine with a muffler delete and it's honestly been fine for me. The only drone-y spot I notice is right at about 2400-2500. I just shift, or go a little faster/slower. It's a little loud at highway speeds, but I got used to it quickly and passengers haven't complained yet. I guess there's variances in every car/motor though that might make it more tolerable in mine than it is in yours.
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Old 12-08-2012, 04:06 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fender9530 View Post
I think paying just 300 for a muffler delete is better than 1000 for a catback.
No reason to even pay that much - I got my single-exit delete with the stock tip done at a local muffler shop for $50. Took about twenty minutes, had it done on my lunch break hahahaha.
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Old 12-08-2012, 05:50 PM   #28
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No reason to even pay that much - I got my single-exit delete with the stock tip done at a local muffler shop for $50. Took about twenty minutes, had it done on my lunch break hahahaha.
AMEN! Lol

BTW Test Pipe cost $65
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