Engine crease?

[wbradley]

Originally Posted by Chimpo

I used to work at a transmission plant: you should see cosmetic flaws on some cast parts when the die is nearing the end of its useful life. *shudder*

Would that have been die cast? I thought they used sand molds/wax.

Oops just got it straight: Die>>sand mold>>casting. So, yet there has to be master dies, sometimes several to form one sand casting for an engine block. The sand is held together to make up parts of the mold by adding an organic resin binder.

The speed that one big machine can complete this process over and over is unbelievable. Even cooler is doing magnesium castings like they do for the BMW Z4 block. The stuff is explosive if handled incorrectly.

[ziptiespec]

Originally Posted by ThePoet

Unfortunately it doesn't... Not for anyone I've heard of. Me and so many others it seems have just resorted to double clutching for the first couple miles or so. Eliminates the need for that retarded 2nd gear synchro and bad fluid altogether

Lots of people, myself included, have had luck changing out the factory MTL for Pentosin MTF-2. I encourage you to read this thread:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16604

but the TL;DR is that the Pentosin has a better cold viscosity, meets the factory requirements, and does a great job.

[Chimpo]

Originally Posted by wbradley

Would that have been die cast? I thought they used sand molds/wax.

Oops just got it straight: Die>>sand mold>>casting. So, yet there has to be master dies, sometimes several to form one sand casting for an engine block. The sand is held together to make up parts of the mold by adding an organic resin binder.

The speed that one big machine can complete this process over and over is unbelievable. Even cooler is doing magnesium castings like they do for the BMW Z4 block. The stuff is explosive if handled incorrectly.

I should have been more specific: High Pressure Die Cast.

[mkiisupra]

It looks like someone missed out on the joys of making their own lead figurines for military/D&D play action. Casting marks, that's all. Nothing to see here, just move on...

Eric G

[mkiisupra]

Originally Posted by ThePoet

Unfortunately it doesn't... Not for anyone I've heard of. Me and so many others it seems have just resorted to double clutching for the first couple miles or so. Eliminates the need for that retarded 2nd gear synchro and bad fluid altogether

Originally Posted by T-SoL

aight thanks guys! had me kind of worried for litttle i just got my car last Thursday so its been only a week. Does the shifting on 1st and 2nd gear get better after break in? Mine is really bad when its cold.

Like most, I also have a hard shifting 1-2 when cold. However, I have not changed fluid, but have noticed that if the revs are 'matched' or higher and not lugging during the initial shifts, the lever slides into gear without hitch. I am talking about 3k-3.5k shifts, which I am not used to with my other cold-started cars.

It is easier to shift this week than last week (second week of ownership). This is most likely due to 'owner getting used to car', rather than 'car breaking in.' I am not putting in new tranny oil until I am sure that the car really needs it. Replacing factory fluids with 'better' products with under 5k milage may be a bit premature. YMMV, and there are very learned people on the forum to help out if you want more information about fluid choices/replacements.

Eric G

[IloveBaldEagles]

My '94 corolla would never do that to me, especially after all we've been through.
Aaah I miss the air time I had with it at random events...

[SixSpeed]

Originally Posted by #87

Ill trade smooth for ribbed anyday, where do i sign up

lol