How to just change the oil filter, not the oil?

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by benster

this is also for a nascar based engine that spins between 6000 and 9500 rpms for 2 hours straight, not a daily driver. I do understand the reason for this in a race when the engine is always in the upper rpm range and being pushed hard for a long time, just not in a street engine.

I drive my car harder than you do apparently.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by chulooz

Their oil lasts to the double digits; you just need to replace the filter midway through.

AMSOIL Ea Heavy-Duty Extended-Life Oil Filters
Excellent Efficiency and Capacity Throughout Extended-Service Intervals.

AMSOIL Ea Heavy-Duty Extended-Life Oil Filters (EaHD) provide excellent filtering efficiency and high levels of contaminant capacity for heavy-duty on- and off-road gasoline and diesel applications. They provide extended service intervals that coincide with the maximum drain interval recommendations of AMSOIL synthetic motor oils (not to exceed one year), increasing convenience and reducing maintenance costs.

And at the bottom of this thread is a WRX uoa showing probably the lowest insolubles that you can get. He ran the factory Honeywell filter (which everyone says sucks) for 5,000 miles. People on WRX and STI forums are still searching for Tokyo Roki's (after Subaru switched to Honeywell several years ago in the EJ engines) because they have always been considered the best oil filter Subaru has used.

-Dennis

[Le86]

Originally Posted by GMT

This is the knowledge I need. I didn't want to make a mess. I'm at 1000 mi and wanted to swap out the oil filter filter to get rid of any metal from the breaking in period. San Francisco Toyota won't perform the oil change until 7500 mi. It'll take me close to a year to get there so I was thinking about an oil filter change.

Just so you know, I did an oil change at 1000 miles out of paranoia of metal shavings. I used a telescoping magnet and poked it around inside my oilpan after draining all the oil and it didn't pick up a single speck of metal shavings. I only did it because I read that so many people did the oil change at 1000 and I just had to see for myself. IMHO, it was a waste of money. If I had the choice still, I would just wait until my dealer recommended 5000 miles oil change.

[fuddbutter]

Preventative care is the best kind
I will be changing mine often..

Anyway, its simple, leave the car to cool down, most of the oil will drain out, if you have a stock filter it will have an anti drain back valve.

With the new one, pour a bit of oil in to it, till it fills about half way and just wait, it will soak into the filter.
Then rub a thin film onto the rubber, put it on and tighten it by hand, not too tight though.

And you are done

[ST185RC]

Spend money on a filter magnet, it will pay for itself over time relative to changing your filter between oil changes.

[GMT]

Originally Posted by ST185RC

Spend money on a filter magnet, it will pay for itself over time relative to changing your filter between oil changes.

I've never used one so this is new to me. Thanks.

[Ingen]

Originally Posted by ST185RC

Spend money on a filter magnet, it will pay for itself over time relative to changing your filter between oil changes.

Alternatively, 15 bucks worth of neodymium magnets will do the same work without so much cost.

[Splat]

Originally Posted by benster

this is also for a nascar based engine that spins between 6000 and 9500 rpms for 2 hours straight, not a daily driver. I do understand the reason for this in a race when the engine is always in the upper rpm range and being pushed hard for a long time, just not in a street engine, but hey, if it floats your boat to do it, go ahead.

I'd probably be doing that if I had a 4-500hp engine, but then again I'd probably just change the oil at the same time due to blow-by getting in the oil and deteriorating it.

my opinion, take it or leave it.

I will leave it.
I run my car hard every weekend for fun for couple hour rides 5-7k rev almost always and that is running hard for this car. Does not matter what the HP is. The key here is recommend oil change at whatever, and is set for the average daily driver. This does not mean you can not do it sooner. The best way to keep your oil filter working properly, or any filter for that matter, is to make sure it is clean and not clogged. Spending a few bucks and minutes is good time spent with your pride and joy.

[White Shadow]

Just for the record, there will be oil in the oil filter when you remove it from the engine. The oil filter has an anti-drain valve that keeps oil in the filter when the engine is shut off. The idea behind the anti-drain valve is to keep oil in the filter, which helps the engine build oil pressure as quickly as possible upon engine start-up. Anyone who has removed an oil filter should know that it has oil in it just by the weight of the thing alone!

BTW, an old mechanic's trick is to fill a new oil filter with clean engine oil before installing it. You can fill it up and turn it upside down and the oil will stay in there without leaking out. I do it all the time on my 4Runner, which has an upside down filter mounted out in front, just like the FR-S/BRZ.

[gmookher]

I never tried a filter magnet but will now...which one are you all getting?

[IShouldStudy]

Some other members have already purchased filtermags and I believe the recommendation was the filtermag ss300 if you are using the #130 subaru oil filter. It depends on the filter dimension of the filter you are running. For instance I'm trying to decide which oil filter to go with tonight and have been doing quite a bit of research.

Mobil 1 oil filter at autozone (M1-104) has an outside diameter of 3.62

K&N HP-1004 oil filter has an outside diameter of 3.156

For the K&N you would want the SS300 filtermag per the diameter specifications on the filtermag website and Jegs.

http://www.jegs.com/p/FilterMAG/Filt...13786/10002/-1