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Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires.

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Old 11-07-2012, 04:14 PM   #267
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got a wheel fitment question, you guys think this would fit? ^^
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Old 11-07-2012, 04:21 PM   #268
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16x8 +0

got a wheel fitment question, you guys think this would fit? ^^
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Old 11-07-2012, 04:37 PM   #269
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lol, you didn't mention the 4 lug holes
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:17 PM   #270
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Originally Posted by 2point0 View Post

uhmm

http://www.watanabe.com.au/page3.html


16x8 +0 4,5 or 6 98 to 139.7 7.5kg


you guys have been real helpful though!
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:57 PM   #271
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Question about the bolt holes:

I emailed Advan about the Advan RSII 17x8 +37 5x100. Response was:

The issue is that the bolt holes are 14mm where the FT86 should use a 12mm hole. Although it's not much difference it can cause issues with centring the wheel on the hub and can cause vibration if it's not centred. We do not recommend this.

Would this be a problem? And is there a way to resolve this? Can I just use those tapered lug nuts? Would they even fit?
New to wheels sorry ^_^
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Old 11-07-2012, 06:11 PM   #272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meeks View Post
uhmm

http://www.watanabe.com.au/page3.html


16x8 +0 4,5 or 6 98 to 139.7 7.5kg


you guys have been real helpful though!
Ok, just making sure. That offset will stick waaaay out. Zero offset means the hub face is directly in the center of the wheel and as a comparison, stock offset is +48mm, which means the center of the wheel is 48mm inboard from the hub face.

Zero offset is something you'd see on old muscle cars (like my 'Stang). for an 8" wide wheel, you'd want to stick with something in the 35-45mm range, depending on how aggressive you want to get (more aggressive = wheel sticking out more).

You'd also need to be sure the wheel comes in 5x100 bolt pattern.

Looking closer, all the wheels on that page are 0 or negative offset. They are not meant for these cars.
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Old 11-07-2012, 06:17 PM   #273
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big sidewall ftw, hate the skinny ass tires that come with the car.
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Old 11-07-2012, 06:17 PM   #274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2point0 View Post
Ok, just making sure. That offset will stick waaaay out. Zero offset means the hub face is directly in the center of the wheel and as a comparison, stock offset is +48mm, which means the center of the wheel is 48mm inboard from the hub face.

Zero offset is something you'd see on old muscle cars (like my 'Stang). for an 8" wide wheel, you'd want to stick with something in the 35-45mm range, depending on how aggressive you want to get (more aggressive = wheel sticking out more).

You'd also need to be sure the wheel comes in 5x100 bolt pattern.

Looking closer, all the wheels on that page are 0 or negative offset. They are not meant for these cars.

thanks for the answer. i guess the other guy didnt understand that it was just a picture for reference thats why it had a 4 bolt pattern on it.

your answer contradicts one of the vendor's answer to this tho, see below:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Touge Factory View Post
Definitely won't need over fenders for that.
16x8 +0 should be able to fit without much issue. Would be even easier if the car is lowered on coilovers.

excuse the overfenders but hoping some functionality/looks to this effect (picture as a reference..again mmmmkkk?)

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Old 11-07-2012, 06:21 PM   #275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giraffee View Post
Question about the bolt holes:

I emailed Advan about the Advan RSII 17x8 +37 5x100. Response was:

The issue is that the bolt holes are 14mm where the FT86 should use a 12mm hole. Although it's not much difference it can cause issues with centring the wheel on the hub and can cause vibration if it's not centred. We do not recommend this.

Would this be a problem? And is there a way to resolve this? Can I just use those tapered lug nuts? Would they even fit?
New to wheels sorry ^_^
While I'm not expert on wheel studs or anything, all wheels I've ever used have had holes slightly larger than the stud, otherwise . The stud itself is 12mm and the tapered lugs (stock...the wheel dictates the type you use) are meant to help center the wheel. But...they should not bear the load. You should make sure the wheel's hub bore is designed for the car, or get hubcentric rings to make it fit correctly. This way, the load is on the hub ring and the lugs are just holding the wheel tight against the mounting surface.
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Old 11-07-2012, 06:33 PM   #276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meeks View Post
your answer contradicts one of the vendor's answer to this tho, see below:




excuse the overfenders but hoping some functionality/looks to this effect (picture as a reference..again mmmmkkk?)
I have a hard time believing it'd come close to fitting. Nissans like that can take a really low (0 or negative) offset like that. That setup on an 86 would push the outside of the wheel about 2" out from stock. Go check that with a ruler/tape and see if it's what you want.

For reference, my wheels are 17x9 and +28mm offset. They stick out too much for my tastes, especially with semi-wide tires. Negative camber would help there, but still not what I'm ultimately going for. To compare, my setup sticks out roughly 1" from stock.

This is a handy comparison tool: http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:59 PM   #277
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.....do you have a basic understanding of how wheels attach to cars? There's more to it than just having X amount of holes that the pointy things go through.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:19 PM   #278
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http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/w...eels-5x100.htm

Bolt pattern will be ok, center bore is 1mm off, offset is aggressive, or the herrafrush kind, but might be ok. I doubt there is a .5mm hub ring, so you'll need proper lugs for the wheels to seat properly.
Audi uses ball seat (R14 iirc), so stock lugs won't work. Or will work for a couple of blocks until the first pothole.
GOOOD LUCK finding proper lugs. Some dude on the forum bought spacers, but there is no way to tell if the curvature in those is okay for Audi.

In short I wouldn't do it. Go to nasioc and find something. Should be plenty of peeps in NY area.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:23 PM   #279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsgerbc View Post
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/w...eels-5x100.htm

Bolt pattern will be ok, center bore is 1mm off, offset is aggressive, or the herrafrush kind, but might be ok. I doubt there is a .5mm hub ring, so you'll need proper lugs for the wheels to seat properly.
Audi uses ball seat (R14 iirc), so stock lugs won't work. Or will work for a couple of blocks until the first pothole.
GOOOD LUCK finding proper lugs. Some dude on the forum bought spacers, but there is no way to tell if the curvature in those is okay for Audi.

In short I wouldn't do it. Go to nasioc and find something. Should be plenty of peeps in NY area.
He said everything I said in a much more eloquent way, with way more information. Thanks!
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:37 PM   #280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2point0 View Post
While I'm not expert on wheel studs or anything, all wheels I've ever used have had holes slightly larger than the stud, otherwise . The stud itself is 12mm and the tapered lugs (stock...the wheel dictates the type you use) are meant to help center the wheel. But...they should not bear the load. You should make sure the wheel's hub bore is designed for the car, or get hubcentric rings to make it fit correctly. This way, the load is on the hub ring and the lugs are just holding the wheel tight against the mounting surface.
I just received confirmation that the bore is fine, does that mean I will still need hub rings? Or will tapered lugs be fine?
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