Light weight flywheel and crank pulley?

[gmookher]

Right.
I dont want the lightest flywheel, prolly want the heaviest lightweight rather, in steel

[Turdinator]

Is the ACT flywheel compatible with the std clutch?

[SubieNate]

Yes.

[jarviz]

Originally Posted by paulieblaze

I did both the crank pulley and lighter wheels at the same time, and I can tell you what a difference. The car pulls hard I fully endorse the crank pulley and getting rid of the heavy ass oem wheels (20lbs) each, my motegi mr 125 17' weight 16 lbs. :happy0180:

Any negatives to getting a lighter crank pulley...besides cost?

[Esoteric]

We installed the Perrin pulley on my car:
Tiny little increase in NVH (mostly noticeable on cold start), tiny increase in performance... Also, tiny price and straight forward install. Happy overall, I like the response.

Most noticeable benefit? Rev matching is easier.
Feels like a flywheel thats 3 pounds lighter is the easiest way to describe it...and it also easier to drive, no loss of drivability, only improvement.

I'll have to do a full review at some point.

Wise advice
You must remove the crank bolt to do the swap. Perrin informs you that you might need to replace this but the layperson won't truly know when to.
My advice would be: better safe then sorry, especially for the folks who google this a few years down the road with even more miles.
Hardware stretches and professionals don't risk this type of failure.
Since you can't measure the bolt before it was installed at the factory (Its called bolt stretch), you play a guessing game. You may want to buy a new bolt for this job.
Also, the manual trans is an easy job, the auto trans cars require the factory or a similar tool solution to lock the flex-plate for install.

[Calum]

I removed my Perrin pulley recently and noticed an oil leak, that I could smell when I came to a stop but couldn't find under the car, has vanished. The smell started shortly after installing the pulley, but I never equated the cause and effect. I did remove a fair amount of built up dirt from the holes in the pulley when I was getting it ready to sell, so that might have been the cause of the imbalance. Either way I won't be running one of those again.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Esoteric

My advice would be: better safe then sorry, especially for the folks who google this a few years down the road with even more miles.
Hardware stretches and professionals don't risk this type of failure.
Since you can't measure the bolt before it was installed at the factory (Its called bolt stretch), you play a guessing game. You may want to buy a new bolt for this job.

This! If your not used to feeling when a bolt is stretching, as in many many years of experience, just change it.

[wu_dot_com]

Originally Posted by Turdinator

Is the ACT flywheel compatible with the std clutch?

it should be. the reason being that the lighter flywheel have lighting holes cut from the OEM blanks (for fresh machine blanks with same interface dimension) w/0 compromising structural rigidity. The design intent is to retain the same interface as OEM setup.

In addition, the ACT flywheel is design to withstand increase in both shock and pressure loads to handle both 4 puck clutch disc and HD pressure plate. The shock load from the 4 puck solid hub disc and the pressure load from HD pressure plate are higher than OEM setup.

[wu_dot_com]

Originally Posted by jarviz

Any negatives to getting a lighter crank pulley...besides cost?

though the effect for both crank pulley and flywheel mod is the same but in different magnitude. both positive (increase engine response) and negative (reduce streetability due to less rotational potential energy store) effects by adding the crank pulley will be less noticeable than flywheel.

in either case, you will adapt your driving style accordingly.

[wu_dot_com]

Originally Posted by Calum

I removed my Perrin pulley recently and noticed an oil leak, that I could smell when I came to a stop but couldn't find under the car, has vanished. The smell started shortly after installing the pulley, but I never equated the cause and effect. I did remove a fair amount of built up dirt from the holes in the pulley when I was getting it ready to sell, so that might have been the cause of the imbalance. Either way I won't be running one of those again.

since our car have both the skid plate and exhaust headers directly under the engine. perhaps the oil either got evaporated on the exhaust or its on the skid plate somewhere.
did you notice any moist spot sounding the crank pulley?

it might be the bearing seal that is holding the crank that is leaking rather than from the bolt. i don’t think the bolt goes through the engine where it can create a leak path.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by wu_dot_com

since our car have both the skid plate and exhaust headers directly under the engine. perhaps the oil either got evaporated on the exhaust or its on the skid plate somewhere.
did you notice any moist spot sounding the crank pulley?

it might be the bearing seal that is holding the crank that is leaking rather than from the bolt. i don’t think the bolt goes through the engine where it can create a leak path.

Agreed, the bolt does not go through the crank. But if the pulley isn't balanced then it could cause the front main seal to leak. And with the exhaust right under it, the oil would burn off pretty quickly. There was oil on the back side of the pulley when I removed it.

[wu_dot_com]

Originally Posted by Calum

Agreed, the bolt does not go through the crank. But if the pulley isn't balanced then it could cause the front main seal to leak. And with the exhaust right under it, the oil would burn off pretty quickly. There was oil on the back side of the pulley when I removed it.

yikes... let me go check on mine to see if i can see any oil spots. perhaps you have a bad seal or something, it could be an isolated incident. since this is the only leaking incident i've seen this far.

since you've put back the OEM pulley, have you notice any more leaking?

[T-SoL]

i been thinking bout gettin perrin pulley. how much difference is there as far as NVH? Does it void the factory warranty? Are there other other problems? IF i decided to install the perrin pulley (i am waiting for my car still) should i "break in" the car OEM pulley or is it better to break in with the perrin pulley??
Thanks in advance!

[dj petey]

For those of you with no experience using a lightened flywheel, I used to have a 626 with a lightened MX-3 FW. My stock FW was 21lbs, the stock MX-3 FW was 18lbs and i lightened it to 15lbs. The 6lb difference between the stock 626 FW and the lightened mx-3 FW made all the difference in the world. 1st and 2nd gear were the most noticeable in terms of how quick i could get to redline. Throttle blips were fast, tight, and accurate. Rev matching and down shifting were greatly improved if you have a good sense of feel for your car. The annoying rev hang was gone.

As soon as i got into my FR-S i was immediately reminded of the rev hang i used to have with my 21lb FW on my 626. This platform is screaming for a lightened flywheel. The stock FW on this car is 20.6lbs.



I'm trying to get my hands on a used stock FW to see how much weight i can safely take off. The shop i took my last FW to are experts in balancing industrial components for rotating assemblies and have been doing so for over 3 decades. The price of a used MX-3 FW from the wreckers was $30 and it cost $50 to lighten. Hopefully i can do this with the FR-S. Does anyone know if there is an FA20 compatible FW from another platform that weighs less than 20.6 lbs stock? The shop recommends starting with the lightest stock FW i can find so i don't have to remove as much material when machining it. Anyone who has replaced their FW, please PM if you would be willing to help me R&D this mod so i can find out how light we can go on the stock flywheel.