Manual driving method

[mooshoepork]

Originally Posted by jmaryt

yes! once the clutch is released and the gears are allowed to "'spin" free, this causes a momentary "loss" of power,and slowing,until the next gear is engaged.i have never raced,BUT at higher "speeds" i can understand how the "sudden" "torque" loading could have a detrimental effect on the transmission,however,again,"high speeds",along with very violent,''tight" turning would have to be experienced for this to be any kind of transmission "wearing " issue! in my view,normal driving over a long period of time would present "negligible" wear issues,so "rev matching" would NOT be necessary!

Jesus Christ, "settle down" with the unnecessary quotation marks lol

[sho220]

Originally Posted by jmaryt

ic! after driving "stick" for over 45 years,i am of the opinion this is
not necessary,as action of the clutch,releasing,and engaging,is what it is designed to do,
and the TRUE wearing part is the ''throw-out" bearing anyway! THIS part,in MY experience,
is the "only" part to be concerned with over time,as the clutch is "hydraulic" and requires no adjustment! again,it has been MY experience,that if you "get your foot" off the clutch,and shift cleanly,WITHOUT partially engaging the clutch ie: holding the car on an incline,then your transmission should literally last a very,very, long time WITHOUT "rev matching"! unless i'm mistaken,this '"rev matching" was done many, many, years ago when trucks were equipped with "road ranger" transmissions,and engine "revs" "had" to be matched with tranny revs in order to "engage" the next gear,either up,or down in the box.the transmission "had" to be shifted this way,because long ago the transmissions gear train was made up of "conical'" gear shapes which "required" "double clutching",OR rev matching,if you will, so the gears would "mesh" properly.with the introduction of "helical" shaped gears,AND "synchros" double clutching,and rev matching
was no longer necessary.the "helical" shaped gear teeth allowed much easier "meshing" of the gears as they engaged,and as long as the clutch was released,and engaged cleanly,
with no "partial engagement" conditions ie: resting one;s foot on the clutch while driving,then theoretically very little wear will take place over time,with of course,the exception
once again of the "throw-out" bearing which is the "weakest" link from a wear point of view.

Congrats! That's the "biggest" mess of "shit" I've seen "posted" in a while!

[jmaryt]

Originally Posted by sho220

Congrats! That's the "biggest" mess of "shit" I've seen "posted" in a while!

perhaps! but it's all true! and i posted it just for you!
i know you are just "jealous" but it's kewl!
ehe! he! he!

[jmaryt]

Originally Posted by sho220

Congrats! That's the "biggest" mess of "shit" I've seen "posted" in a while!

Originally Posted by mooshoepork

Jesus Christ, "settle down" with the unnecessary quotation marks lol

using the lord's name in vain is "bad karma!" ehe! he! he!

[DanoFA20]

rev matching is just to keep the transitions of downshifting to be smooth and crisp for corner entrance the only time you shouldn't do this is if you wish to drift which doing so is called Clutch kick where you down shift before you release pedal rev the gas up and dump the clutch while applying throttle and this will induce over steer.

you can also keep the vehicle in its current gear if you have enough Horsepower and just do the same thing

Clutch in Rev up drop clutch enjoy the tire smoke and dont forget to steer for a vantage point while doing this. and also make sure you buckle up

[Kieranz]

I have a jekyll and hyde attitude when it comes to driving.

When on open roads or in low traffic, i like to open her up and use normal to aggressive shift points and rev matches on downshifts.

But when in rubbernecking or bumper to bumper traffic - which is what i unfortunately encounter while commuting these days, i strive for max efficiency and clutch work. Which means minimal throttle blipping and rev matching to save gas (and leg muscles).

I find that I'll downshift at these minimum speed when my brain is in granny shift mode.

6th > 35mph
5th> 24mph
4th > 18mph
3rd> 11mph
2nd> 7mph
1st >4mph (you can pretty much pop the clutch into gear w/o any slipping it)

To be clear, when accelerating at these speeds I never use more than 5% throttle, to avoid any perceived lugging. Acceleration is slow to non existent, but I don't really have anywhere to go, so I am striving for best gas mileage. On my commute, I find that using this method. 60% rubber necking traffic, remainder traffic moving but driving aggressively on city streets, I can get between 27 to 29mpg.

[steeloyangster]

Originally Posted by jmaryt

using the lord's name in vain is "bad karma!" ehe! he! he!

If using the lord's name in vain offends you, you should probably get off the internet. It gets a lot worse from here.

[jstn]

Originally Posted by encity5

I think he's asking how to not take so long, and we aren't always racing so there are times you'd want to shift in lower rpms, the economy shift light comes on at around 2k anyway when in 4th

That light is the dumbest thing I've ever seen. I turned it on for a day to see what it did and it wanted me in 5th gear at something like 27mph. It just comes on at 2k constantly, and this motor doesn't even cruise that low in town. Just useless.

[Grishbok]

you rev match to minimize drive-train shock and maintain fluid motion through the chassis. If you rev up and dump the clutch, you upset the chassis, enabling the slide. For fast track times, you want to keep that chassis as fluid as water through the turns, every millisecond counts and upsetting the chassis is a great way to throw away inertia and power and lose time. You can, in more advanced methods use this to your advantage in slip angles, but the situations are rare where you would actually want to upset the chassis.

[jstn]

Originally Posted by jmaryt

i understand,however,can you expand on your statement of "reducing wear"
on the clutch!..how does "rev matching" accomplish this? thanks!

If everything between the motor and the transmission is rotating at about the same speed, it can all engage more smoothly and nothing has to play catch-up with anything else.

More importantly, it makes the shifts smoother and keeps from upsetting the balance of the car. To illustrate: take you car up to 30mph in 3rd gear, shift down to second, and ease off the clutch without revving the motor. Feel how much that jerks the car around and stresses the transmission? Now go back to 30mph/3rd, clutch in, shift to second, rev up to about 4k, then quickly ease off the clutch. The result is that you don't feel the shift at all - the car stays balanced and there is no significant change in vehicle speed.

For street driving, this just means the ride is more comfortable and you're more in control. For track/performance driving, it means you're not throwing the car's weight all over the place right before you try and enter a corner.

[einzlr]

An analogy that might make the concept of rev matching more clear is merging onto a freeway, particularly in the case of heavy and fast-moving freeway traffic. You use the on-ramp to get yourself up to the same speed as the freeway traffic so you can slot yourself into a gap without disrupting the traffic that's already there (or causing a collision!).

[jmaryt]

Originally Posted by steeloyangster

If using the lord's name in vain offends you, you should probably get off the internet. It gets a lot worse from here.

yes! i am aware! it's kewl!

Originally Posted by einzlr

An analogy that might make the concept of rev matching more clear is merging onto a freeway, particularly in the case of heavy and fast-moving freeway traffic. You use the on-ramp to get yourself up to the same speed as the freeway traffic so you can slot yourself into a gap without disrupting the traffic that's already there (or causing a collision!).

this is standard procedure in any driving school manual. it's called "merging"

[steeloyangster]

Originally Posted by Grishbok

you rev match to minimize drive-train shock and maintain fluid motion through the chassis. If you rev up and dump the clutch, you upset the chassis, enabling the slide. For fast track times, you want to keep that chassis as fluid as water through the turns, every millisecond counts and upsetting the chassis is a great way to throw away inertia and power and lose time. You can, in more advanced methods use this to your advantage in slip angles, but the situations are rare where you would actually want to upset the chassis.

This pretty much is it. Couldn't have said it better myself.

[Want.FR-S]

Originally Posted by DanoFA20

i know i see stuff like that around here all the time , i on the other hand live on some of the most twistie insane roads youll see, basically, bunta and takumi fujiwara would love my roads. they be like Akina sucks now.

Just go to google maps type in this address and zoom all the way to eye view and just journey up the road on your map tell me what you think these are the types of marvelous roads i get to drive on day in and day out.

Atwood Road, Stone Ridge, NY

I must be querying the wrong road then:

https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Atwoo...12484&t=h&z=15

I failed to see where the twisty road. Can you show me where exactly the twisty road?

BTW, route 33 is where Bunta and Takumi hang out.

https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Mount...Mt+Haruna&z=14