opinions on getting JUST a muffler

[low trq]

Originally Posted by 2point0

I can see what you mean, but the quality will just depend on the shop and the price, most likely. As for re-sale, keep the stock parts and sell your aftermarket stuff. You'll likely get more back that way.

And really, why would you sell this car?!?

either the car or the exhaust will be gone in 5 years. I get bored quick.

[Tim_Asphalt_FRS]

Originally Posted by low trq

You spent $400? Why not just buy an axle back thats built for your car and it will have re-sale value when you decide to get rid of it?

It will only cost $150 more for a Nameless catback.

It's a full catback. 2.5" tubing all the way to the cat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[low trq]

Originally Posted by Tim_Asphalt_FRS

It's a full catback. 2.5" tubing all the way to the cat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ooooh, thats a pretty good deal then.

Congrats

[MattF]

Originally Posted by ichitaka05

LOL it's amazing no one suggested, just replace the tip. It's not like OP is looking for any gain of hp or tq. Just looking for cosmetic stuff. Exhaust tips will be much cheaper rout imo

He wants a different exhaust sound as well

Sent from my Dell Streak 7 using Tapatalk 2

[gmookher]

is a joe s muffler shop system for me?

cheaper, yup, sure, building something to fit is pretty basic, most monkeys with a pile of tubing and a blowtorch can accomplish this for a few dollars quickly. doesnt make it an exhaust 'system' tho

you do get what you pay for. this int just a sound device, its part of your power equation. theres more to it than slapping it together, really.

Good question is whats the difference between my local shop grabbing some school bus tubing, tossing it on a reamer/bender, and strapping on a generic can, and a true tuner built system? No not one made by borla or magnaflow.

Most muffler shops arent using mandrel bent tubing. Most havent tested flow rates on bends, piping or volumes, when they grab a tube and craft it ad hoc-theres everything wrong with it, its Way different in the way power is gained using an exhaust than where power can actually be lost or unaffected, and all you pay for is more sound. No attention is paid to tuning out resonant frequencies of the tubing. No attention is given to flow,pulses, waves or their reflections.

There are several stainless alloys which are commonly used in exhaust systems. In order of reducing temperature capabilities, they are 347, 321, 316 and 304. In addition, special variations in the basic alloy chemistry (carbon, nickel, titanium and niobium) are available to enhance the high temperature strength of these alloys. Not sure what the muffler shop is using likely not stainless. Again, for going to the mall, hey, whatever floats your boat. But if you want to make power, its not that easy to do it right.

There are two separate components to the exhaust event that require more tuning than can be done by said shop welder standing under your car with a tube and a torch.

The first is the removal of exhaust gasses from the cylinder, which occurs as a pulse of hot gas exiting the cylinder and flowing down the header primary tube.

The second is the (much faster) travel of the pressure wave in the port caused by the pressure spike which occurs when the exhaust valve opens, and the various reflections of that wave.

Taking proper advantage of these pressure waves (component two) can produce dramatic improvements in clearing the cylinder (component one) and can strongly assist the inflow of fresh charge.

The 'made to fit' pipes lenght or an angle a few inches this way or that way CAN affect things. The way a cut end of pipe protrudes into the path of airflow does matter to some people. The lack of proper pulse is easy screw up. It costs power and economy.

A tuned, well fabbed, flowing tested setup may cost a little more, but the gains are real and can be more functional with other mods when they are matched up nicely.
I mean you can do what you want its your car

[ESC POD]

Originally Posted by bcmakesiteasy

the axelback from nameless is 550, and I was thinking of getting the invidia catback for around the same price. The thing is, I was considering just the muffler only because it would cost around 200 bucks and that way I can save a few hundred for some cosmetic mods.

Go with the Nameless...you will not be disappointed. I mean no disrespect, but 'just a muffler' on this car...is just a little too hokey. Again, no disrespect...just an opinion. Nameless, for the price- You will be exceptionally pleased when you get it in the mail...Built in the USA too!!

[Mikepage]

Originally Posted by gmookher

is a joe s muffler shop system for me?

cheaper, yup, sure, building something to fit is pretty basic, most monkeys with a pile of tubing and a blowtorch can accomplish this for a few dollars quickly. doesnt make it an exhaust 'system' tho

you do get what you pay for. this int just a sound device, its part of your power equation. theres more to it than slapping it together, really.

Good question is whats the difference between my local shop grabbing some school bus tubing, tossing it on a reamer/bender, and strapping on a generic can, and a true tuner built system? No not one made by borla or magnaflow.

Most muffler shops arent using mandrel bent tubing. Most havent tested flow rates on bends, piping or volumes, when they grab a tube and craft it ad hoc-theres everything wrong with it, its Way different in the way power is gained using an exhaust than where power can actually be lost or unaffected, and all you pay for is more sound. No attention is paid to tuning out resonant frequencies of the tubing. No attention is given to flow,pulses, waves or their reflections.

There are several stainless alloys which are commonly used in exhaust systems. In order of reducing temperature capabilities, they are 347, 321, 316 and 304. In addition, special variations in the basic alloy chemistry (carbon, nickel, titanium and niobium) are available to enhance the high temperature strength of these alloys. Not sure what the muffler shop is using likely not stainless. Again, for going to the mall, hey, whatever floats your boat. But if you want to make power, its not that easy to do it right.

There are two separate components to the exhaust event that require more tuning than can be done by said shop welder standing under your car with a tube and a torch.

The first is the removal of exhaust gasses from the cylinder, which occurs as a pulse of hot gas exiting the cylinder and flowing down the header primary tube.

The second is the (much faster) travel of the pressure wave in the port caused by the pressure spike which occurs when the exhaust valve opens, and the various reflections of that wave.

Taking proper advantage of these pressure waves (component two) can produce dramatic improvements in clearing the cylinder (component one) and can strongly assist the inflow of fresh charge.

The 'made to fit' pipes lenght or an angle a few inches this way or that way CAN affect things. The way a cut end of pipe protrudes into the path of airflow does matter to some people. The lack of proper pulse is easy screw up. It costs power and economy.

A tuned, well fabbed, flowing tested setup may cost a little more, but the gains are real and can be more functional with other mods when they are matched up nicely.
I mean you can do what you want its your car

Am totally agree with you! When company create an exhaust system they perform research and tests for it.

Your choice It's depending what you want to do with your car :p