Power Slot vs Stoptech drilled rotor

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by TAP Auto

Powerslot and Stoptech rotors are both created from the Centric Premium blank. Go with the Powerslot rotor if you want a performance rotor.

The setup you have listed above sounds great, should really improve the pedal feel

Explain how the performance is better please.

[TAP Auto Parts]

Prevents uneven pad wear and hotspotting. Also helps with wet weather braking. Not something that is needed with street pads on a street car.

I use the term "performance" to describe the style of rotor, I was not trying to imply that it had greater performance then a standard rotor.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by TAP Auto

Prevents uneven pad wear and hotspotting. Also helps with wet weather braking. Not something that is needed with street pads on a street car.

I use the term "performance" to describe the style of rotor, I was not trying to imply that it had greater performance then a standard rotor.

I'd love to see the data on that. The wet weather part is the only part I agree with. Your second paragraph saved it though

You left out increased pad wear and potential noise, and less heat capacity in the rotor (which is a heatsink after all). On the street little of that will matter of course.

For the cost and negatives (which outweigh the pad swipe to remove some water and mud, for those who rally their BRZ/FRS) the blanks are a better solution for performance and track use. Blanks don't look very cool though.

[Miniata]

Originally Posted by RYU

@JoeBoxer, any idea if there are weight savings between these brands? That would be something i'd consider as part of the decision process.

There isn't on the Stoptech drilled rotors. I bought a set for my Miata in hopes of cutting down a little bit of rotating mass for autocrossing, but they weighed the same (within .1-.2 lb) as the new Centric blanks I had bought last year for the car. Doesn't make a lot of sense that with all of those holes drilled out they would weigh the same as the standard Centric (same company) blanks, which measure the same in all dimensions, but thats what two different scales said. Only major difference was the Stoptech drilled had a black paint/anti-rust coating on it, and the standard Centric blank didn't. Maybe that was the difference?Normally I wouldn't use drilled rotors on the street and definitely not on the track.

[TAP Auto Parts]

It makes total sense though when you think about it. The slots have a shaving effect on the pads that yes, does decrease pad life, but also keeps pad wear even and prevents glazing of pads.

If slots didnt work, you wouldnt see them in top racing series (that use iron rotors), albeit it is the popular new "J" hook design.

Example, the Tundra is notorious for developing pedal pulsation because of the low quality brake components they use. By switching to a slotted rotor that problem is eliminated, even when using factory pads.


ALMS Ferrari

[Dave-ROR]

J hooks were developed to fix the slotted issues I will be running j hook discs myself, no issues with them. Less issues with slotted over drilled too. On the street it comes to looks only though. I've driven 4wd Tundras and never noticed that issue but I wasn't exactly pushing it either

For track use I prefer blanks still, but will try the j hooks which I expect I'll be fine with. I'lve cracked slotted discs *badly* before with absolutely NO benefit on the track that I was ever able to notice.

For the OPs needs though, anything will work, just depends on how much he wants to spend for looks because he really won't see any benefits from slotted or drilled IMO. Jeff Ritter can comment more if he sees this.

[JoeBoxer]

Jeff has been very helpful via PM about the pads and rotors. I have everything picked out just need to wait on a couple paychecks before i can place the order. Parts sales have been down the last couple months which isn't helping either.

[TAP Auto Parts]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

J hooks were developed to fix the slotted issues I will be running j hook discs myself, no issues with them. Less issues with slotted over drilled too. On the street it comes to looks only though. I've driven 4wd Tundras and never noticed that issue but I wasn't exactly pushing it either

For track use I prefer blanks still, but will try the j hooks which I expect I'll be fine with. I'lve cracked slotted discs *badly* before with absolutely NO benefit on the track that I was ever able to notice.

For the OPs needs though, anything will work, just depends on how much he wants to spend for looks because he really won't see any benefits from slotted or drilled IMO. Jeff Ritter can comment more if he sees this.

:happy0180: :happy0180:

It happens a lot with towing and heavy loads on the tundra. My tacoma did it too. Crap pads.

[ModBargains]

Originally Posted by ABQautoxer

Why not OEM rotors? In my experience these types of rotors do nothing for braking. It would be worth it if they were lighter, but the slots/holes don't help and often eat pads faster.

Actually, slotted rotors are proven to help. The slotted rotors help dissipate heat and creates even wear on the brake pad. Just my .02 cents.

We sell the Stoptech Power Slotted Rotors for both FRS and BRZ and it's been a popular seller:



-Frank

[ABQautoxer]

Originally Posted by ModBargains

Actually, slotted rotors are proven to help. The slotted rotors help dissipate heat and creates even wear on the brake pad. Just my .02 cents.

-Frank

Good ones done right yes, on race cars. On street cars going to the track a couple times a year, its a bad idea.

[ModBargains]

Originally Posted by ABQautoxer

Why not OEM rotors? In my experience these types of rotors do nothing for braking. It would be worth it if they were lighter, but the slots/holes don't help and often eat pads faster.

Originally Posted by ABQautoxer

Good ones done right yes, on race cars. On street cars going to the track a couple times a year, its a bad idea.

We will agree to disagree

-Frank

[ABQautoxer]

Of course, you sell parts, I don't.

[OrbitalEllipses]

You'll get bang for your buck from blanks, not slotted rotors...

[Hardrock4445]

Just my $.02,
My recommendation on brake rotors would be to stay away from anything drilled. I agree with most on the slotted design. I am really liking the Raybestos R-300/Napa - Reactive One rotor design. It is the same rotor just find a jobber with the lower price.



Pads- that is up to you depending on your driving style, habits, racing, etc.

Now, one topic that I feel is very important and I have not seen pop up on here. The service of having new rotors cut with a properly SET UP and MAINTAINED on car brake lathe. I run an on car lathe service to every vehicle at my work with the purchase of new rotors. OEM rotor run out tolerances are very tight on modern vehicles. From new rotors I have measured and serviced, around 75% require this service to meet OEM specs. Even with properly cleaned wheel hubs, and a brand new top of the line rotor you can be well out of specs. Most brake rotors that start to shake are not "warped" as most people may think. They have high/low spots (thickness variation) due to improper brake pad transfer/rotor wear depending on the type of brake pad. And, yes you can cut slotted rotors. It is done with a much finer cut and the bit will need to be turned in between cuts. If you think of wanting this service performed and the shop does not request you purchase the carbide bits used on your car then walk out. This is not a scam by them, but a shop that knows you can only get one true cut per side of a carbide bit when cutting a slotted rotor. makes sense if you think of it, 8 cuts per side, 3 sides per bit, 2 bits to make a cut. 24 cuts per pair of bits. Your 1 4wheel service on slotted rotors will most likely burn 2-3 pairs of bits depending on how much run-out and how many cuts.