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| Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
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#16 |
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Functionally Retarded
Join Date: Jan 2012
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If you want the car level.
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#17 |
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Senior Member
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#18 |
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Banned
Join Date: Jul 2012
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#19 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
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How about just ramps on the front to change the front pipe? Would this be possible?
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#20 | |
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Reverse Burnouts
Join Date: Oct 2011
Drives: 2013 Argento FRS
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Quote:
to make the install easier buy new rubber hangers and just cut the old ones off so you arent wrestling the car back and fourth just to get the oem rubber hangers off, rubber hangers dont cost much and will make the process about 5--20 minutes faster depending on your skill level and there is 0 hassle when tightening the exhaust up, align all sections of the cat back up first with a little bit of play but all the hangers in place and bolts in the correct holes slowly tighten each bolt a little bit until you find resistance on each bolt in the whole exhaust system, then continue to tighten them down to spec , this is to ensure your exhaust tips align correctly with the bumper cut outs for the exhaust tips ohh yeah and let the car cool off before instal, like mentioned above a hot exhaust pipe smack against the face is NOT a pleasant feeling, kinda like hot oil in the face and dont forget the gaskets
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#21 |
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S/Be pretty easy just roll the car onto the ramps, turn it off and leave it in reverse. (Assuming you're on flat ground, its more likely the car will roll foward off the ramp) also CHOCK YOUR WHEELS. scrap 2x4 is great for that if you dont have real wheel chocks.
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#22 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
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I do this too. I'm paranoid, but anytime I'm under a car I imagine the worst and so I use the ramps and the jack stands.
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#23 | |
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Senior Member
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#24 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Drives: 2013 WRB 6MT BRZ Ltd.
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Just did mine last night (starting at about 1am). It was my first time doing anything exhaust related, and it really wasn't that bad. There are some annoyingly tight screws that feel somewhat rusted, and my single largest issue was using a crappy jack that only gets up about 13" or so and was too high profile to get started. I had to use the jack in the trunk to get it lifted on the side high enough to get the hydraulic jack under the front jack point. Once that was done, I was able to get jackstands under each point, though they were quite low.
With a jack, 4 jackstands, and GrimmSpeed's Exhaust Removal Guide detailing which tools I'd need, I was able to do everything. I actually wound up using a boxwrench half of the time instead of the ratchet, as there are a lot of tight places. One huge piece of advise I can give you: using WD-40 makes a LOT of the job a ton easier. I can't tell you how long I was tugging on the exhaust hangers before applying WD-40, waiting a minute or two, and then easily sliding them off with my thumb. |
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#25 | |
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Senior Member
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#26 | |
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form follows function
Join Date: Nov 2011
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#27 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
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#28 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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Quote:
I also use 4 jack stands. Use the front central jack point, set up two stands under the side jack points. Move to the rear, repeat. If you need the car higher, see-saw it up, (jack the front up a few inches, raise the stands, do the rear, raise the stands, repeat). As mentioned, be careful if you're really yanking on a wrench or exhaust hangar, the last thing you want is to tip the car off it's stands... A muffler in the face is nothing compared to an entire car trying to occupy the same space as your chest. |
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