Need help with sway bar purchase

[_F-R-S_]

i just bought that cusco front sway for a bit more stiffness...works wonders..

[ESC POD]

Installed a 16mm WRX rear sway tonight...paid $40 in excellent condition, bolted right in...Test drove it, with the Nannies on, no worries or changes. With the Nannies Off...A little more tail happy, but Not Dangerous. The car is still very predictable...

I say Win. Anything larger than a 16mm would most likely be overkill without further upgrades throughout the suspension...In my opinion.

[fatoni]

Originally Posted by ngabdala

I want better handling. I love kicking the rear out with the stock setup. I thought this would make things more fun for me. Also, a big concern is when I buy stickier tires and slightly larger wheels because I fear losing that and I watched the Rallysportdirect video about how the sway bars brought the ability to kick the rear out after they bought stickier tires and larger wheels.

if you love the stock setup, why are you changing it again? you kinda lost me on that one.

Originally Posted by Wolfking

I've heard that the BRZ understeers a bit in comparison to my FRS. Stiffening an already rigid structure could only make it worse, I'd imagine. "you can over stiffen a car." If you absolutely must add parts, it makes sense to go with adjustable (settings) parts. You may find one setting more favorable over the others, is why! I'd also look at a front strut tower bar ( STB) before screwing with swaybars. As for Cusco...they are $$ for a reason. There are others. Tanabe, Eibach, all good.

Lowering a bit and providing wider tires make a big difference. neither of which call for upgraded sway bars. I'm partial to 225/45/17. I ran this set up on a 1998 S14 / 240sx SE for years. My car did "everything I commanded!"...an well! (daily driver)

Good luck and don't !@#$% up your car!

when you say over stiffen a car do you mean spring rate? because right before it, you sound like you are talking about the chassis and those are two entirely different things. a strut tower bar is in no way shape or form a replacement for sway bars. it really sounds like you are confusing chassis stiffness and suspension stiffness.

[huma]

Originally Posted by ESC POD

Installed a 16mm WRX rear sway tonight...

What year wrx and is it a direct bolt on?

[ngabdala]

So I've decided to go with the advice given to me earlier in the thread that said to get the wheels/tires first and see if I want sway bars based on my preferences with those installed.

I have some BC Racing Coilovers on their way to me. Other than that I'll wait it out.

[Calum]

Everything we've seen so far points to this car not needing much to upgrade the suspension. The stock setup is great, 1.0g has been measured with no changes other wheels and tires. I'd say do the wheels and tire, get a good alignment and see where you're at. You could certainly be in the 1.1g area and theres not many people with the space, and skill to take full advantage of that.

Most cars, yes absolutely you should start with the suspension, but this isn't the norm. My personal plans are to put sticky tires on the stock rims, get some com-c top hats for the front and camber adjustment front and rear. Find an alignment I like and leave the suspension alone from there. I might get some regular guy springs from RC, but at the moment I'm not sure if I'd want them.

[ESC POD]

Originally Posted by huma

What year wrx and is it a direct bolt on?

WRX '08-'11 Rear Sway bar...16mm. It uses the exact same End links so there is no need to remove them. Unbolt the end links (one nut each side) and the bushing caps (2 each side). Remove the stock bar. Shimmy the WRX into place. Thumb thread the 14mm nuts on the end links to to hold the bar in place. Thread the bushing cap bolts (12mm) and center the bar. Then lock it all down. Test Drive!! With TRAC off...she is tail happy!! with TRAC on...in Sport mode she flicks a bit, but in Normal Trac on all the fun buttons off...She's smooth sailing. For me at least...

My Wife and I decided on Pink...


All done...25 minutes install on the ground, of course the Nameless exhaust left me plenty of room to work under there without jacks.


Enjoy!

[huma]

Originally Posted by ESC POD

WRX '08-'11 Rear Sway bar...16mm. It uses the exact same End links so there is no need to remove them.

I didn't fully understand, so it uses all the same hardware from the BRZ? In your pics, it looks like you have new bushings/mounts for the bar. I didn't know if the BRZ bushings/mounts would work since it's for a smaller bar.

[ESC POD]

Originally Posted by huma

I didn't fully understand, so it uses all the same hardware from the BRZ? In your pics, it looks like you have new bushings/mounts for the bar. I didn't know if the BRZ bushings/mounts would work since it's for a smaller bar.

The BRZ end links are Identical to the WRX so all you need is a Sway bar and the appropriate size bushings and WRX bushing caps for the WRX bar. The BRZ bushings will be too small. However, it will all bolt in with the BRZ hardware.

Hope that helps!

[huma]

Originally Posted by ESC POD

The BRZ end links are Identical to the WRX so all you need is a Sway bar and the appropriate size bushings and WRX bushing caps for the WRX bar. The BRZ bushings will be too small. However, it will all bolt in with the BRZ hardware.

Hope that helps!

Thanks, understood now. Going to my dealership later this week to see how much it'll cost for everything (:

[Calum]

try here
http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/pr...f4023c49168a06
http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/pr...f4023c49168a06

[Wolfking]

Originally Posted by fatoni

if you love the stock setup, why are you changing it again? you kinda lost me on that one.


when you say over stiffen a car do you mean spring rate? because right before it, you sound like you are talking about the chassis and those are two entirely different things. a strut tower bar is in no way shape or form a replacement for sway bars. it really sounds like you are confusing chassis stiffness and suspension stiffness.

I've made no mention of spring rates, therefore I'm still on the chassis. If factory swaybars are acceptable (for a daily driver) Then I'll always advise adding an STB before sways bars. I speak purely from my own tuning data. Your statement places words I've not uttered. Don't read into it. I'd read / study my comments again, good sir.

[fatoni]

Originally Posted by Wolfking

I've heard that the BRZ understeers a bit in comparison to my FRS. Stiffening an already rigid structure could only make it worse, I'd imagine. "you can over stiffen a car." If you absolutely must add parts, it makes sense to go with adjustable (settings) parts. You may find one setting more favorable over the others, is why! I'd also look at a front strut tower bar ( STB) before screwing with swaybars. As for Cusco...they are $$ for a reason. There are others. Tanabe, Eibach, all good.

Lowering a bit and providing wider tires make a big difference. neither of which call for upgraded sway bars. I'm partial to 225/45/17. I ran this set up on a 1998 S14 / 240sx SE for years. My car did "everything I commanded!"...an well! (daily driver)

Good luck and don't !@#$% up your car!

Originally Posted by Wolfking

I've made no mention of spring rates, therefore I'm still on the chassis. If factory swaybars are acceptable (for a daily driver) Then I'll always advise adding an STB before sways bars. I speak purely from my own tuning data. Your statement places words I've not uttered. Don't read into it. I'd read / study my comments again, good sir.

you cant over stiffen a chassis and sway bars ARE springs so i im confused.

[Wolfking]

Originally Posted by fatoni

you cant over stiffen a chassisbody ....

WHAT?
Please explain why you believe this is so. If that were true then we would have solid, not rubber or urethane bushings everywhere. A little "give" is necessary without question. (for a road car) If you've ever driven or rode in a battle tank, it would be crystal to you.