Catch cans: what are you running?

[Apex Chase]

Originally Posted by AVOturboworld

I'm test fitting one of our STI baffled catch cans, just to check places to fit it, and if we want to stick with that design. Not a finished piece, in other words.

Just don't let it get in the way of that turbo system you guys need to get finished so I can buy.

[roddy]

Guys, I could be wrong here, but I don't think so. I'm looking at the way that these are hooked up and it just doesn't look right. There is very little vacuum (if any) at the hose going into the intake tube before the throttle body. There may be some oil vapor there, but not much. It may show a little grime on your TB butterfly in time, but this is not where most of the oil finds its way to the combustion chamber. Where is the PCV valve on this engine? There is usually a large (3/8" I.D. or so) vacuum hose that runs from the PCV valve directly to the intake manifold after the throttle body. There is strong vacuum there (except at WOT or under boost), and that one sucks a lot of oil vapor/droplets. I experimented with placement before and after the throttle body on my Mustang, and found that I caught FAR more oil running the catch can between the PCV valve and the intake manifold. My Mustang is pushing 10-12 PSI of boost and the oil on the before throttle body side was negligible, so I doubt a naturally aspirated engine would see much accumulation. That said, it wouldn't hurt to run 2 cans...some people do.
That Moroso one looks pretty slick. I have a similar can on my other car, but no drain. The bottom section of the can unscrews so I can dump it out.
One more thing... letting the gunk that accumulates in the catch can get back into the engine is bad mojo. Don't even think about it.

[JimmyMac]

Thats how I ran my OCC on the MS3, between the engine block PCV valve and the intake. Caught a lot there. Helped prevent a lot of gunk build up behind the valves since it was a DI setup with no gas in the intake to "clean" them. Some also ran an OCC from the valve cover to the intake due to a lot of oil accumulation before the turbo inlet. I'm not familiar with boxer setups, so I would not know where to look. I may have to look at the Service Manual we have posted on these forums to locate the PCV.

Originally Posted by roddy

Guys, I could be wrong here, but I don't think so. I'm looking at the way that these are hooked up and it just doesn't look right. There is very little vacuum (if any) at the hose going into the intake tube before the throttle body. There may be some oil vapor there, but not much. It may show a little grime on your TB butterfly in time, but this is not where most of the oil finds its way to the combustion chamber. Where is the PCV valve on this engine? There is usually a large (3/8" I.D. or so) vacuum hose that runs from the PCV valve directly to the intake manifold after the throttle body. There is strong vacuum there (except at WOT or under boost), and that one sucks a lot of oil vapor/droplets. I experimented with placement before and after the throttle body on my Mustang, and found that I caught FAR more oil running the catch can between the PCV valve and the intake manifold. My Mustang is pushing 10-12 PSI of boost and the oil on the before throttle body side was negligible, so I doubt a naturally aspirated engine would see much accumulation. That said, it wouldn't hurt to run 2 cans...some people do.
That Moroso one looks pretty slick. I have a similar can on my other car, but no drain. The bottom section of the can unscrews so I can dump it out.
One more thing... letting the gunk that accumulates in the catch can get back into the engine is bad mojo. Don't even think about it.

[gmookher]

Originally Posted by AVOturboworld

I'm test fitting one of our STI baffled catch cans, just to check places to fit it, and if we want to stick with that design. Not a finished piece, in other words.

I like the following features and the moroso isnt what I wanted, i'd like to stick a fancy name from japan on a japanese car, but this model seems tried and proven and is better than nothing, and shipped prime off amazon for me

I like that it comes apart in half to be cleaned out and i like that its got a drain at the bottom.

can yours be made to do that? I dont like the fully welded can or box philosphy

its small enough to be fine for those of use not planning 400HP builds, tho guys with muscle cars, superchargers and turbos use these

this model is rated for the mustang V6
you can get these with bigger than 3/8 fittings if that is a worry, I dont think so, the way oil vapor work is thru going from a pressurized state to one of lower pressure hence the steel gauze and baffle and space for vapor to expand, using the venturi principle

its a great step in the right direction, if I find something better great if not this will be just fine. You benefit this if you want a clean intake in my climate-phoenix

Its important there is nothing that can melt under the drain, incase it ever leaks or drips, so size matters

[unijabnx2000]

http://www.saikoumichi.com/DC3_page.htm

[JoeBoxer]

A catch can stores hazardous waste that you have to deal with on a regular basis, and you have to re-fill your crankcase with oil as it gets transferred into the catch can. Our AOS puts the oil back into the oil pan where it belongs to start with, all you have to do is drive the car

This is what Crawford told me when i asked about their Air/Oil seperator, i think i know which one i'm getting.

[wootwoot]

Originally Posted by JoeBoxer

A catch can stores hazardous waste that you have to deal with on a regular basis, and you have to re-fill your crankcase with oil as it gets transferred into the catch can. Our AOS puts the oil back into the oil pan where it belongs to start with, all you have to do is drive the car

This is what Crawford told me when i asked about their Air/Oil seperator, i think i know which one i'm getting.

That's awesome...

[JimmyMac]

So they can separate all the gunk like this?

[AVOturboworld]

Technically, any catch can with a bottom drain and the appropriate hosing could drain back into the engine, but personally I've got little desire to do so.

[gmookher]

Originally Posted by JoeBoxer

A catch can stores hazardous waste that you have to deal with on a regular basis, and you have to re-fill your crankcase with oil as it gets transferred into the catch can. Our AOS puts the oil back into the oil pan where it belongs to start with, all you have to do is drive the car

This is what Crawford told me when i asked about their Air/Oil seperator, i think i know which one i'm getting.

I feel the Opposite of what Crawford told ya- you dont want a return to oil pan on this application.

Oil catch cans grab not just oil, but often catch water vapors(especially during SAI engagement) and fuel, and carbon. You dont any of want that in your sump, I know some factory cars do this, its more for EPA than for clean oil.

the reason to return all that to INTAKE is it cab be burned off, and the heavy oils, with carbon suspended, gets caught and dumped.

I rather refill old dirty blow by oil than channel that back into the car

[wootwoot]

Can someone tell me what all the excitement is about regarding one brand over the other? It's a can with some baffles and two fittings.... yet people keep saying that this one sucks and that one isn't functional. I'm just trying to pick a catch can for my car here people! I planned on this one but haven't heard much talk about it:

http://ft86speedfactory.com/index.ph...roducts_id=210

Advice and technical reasoning would be appreciated. Just trying to protect my investment as best I can.

[gmookher]

Ya know I looked at that really hard, not sure I can offer advice but here was my reasoning:

Mishimoto unit has a sight glass (more like sight plastic), which some have found most useful as a source for a vacuum leak, according to my research on other forums.

I wanted simple and leak free, industrial design, strength and function over form.

Mishi drain? valve? sorry, sight glass-er plastic, I prefer Moroso's all metal and metal ball valve design. there are others that are all metal, removable, etc. i agree find one you like that works. Not every manufacturer who sells one made sure it was the best it could be.

Different cans use different baffle designs, come in all shapes sizes and colors; with gauges or not, easy fit customers or gitrdone targeted, drain vs drain leak sealed vs crackable are all what makes it exciting!

you may want to consider this one, I liked it alot too http://www.gotboostinc.com/tuxsunoilcac.html prolly my 2nd choice

[JoeBoxer]

Yeah i can see both sides of it, I don't mind cleaning the can out or adding a little oil. Crawford seems to know their stuff i'm sure they have a reason for doing it their way.

[xwd]

Originally Posted by gmookher

I feel the Opposite of what Crawford told ya- you dont want a return to oil pan on this application.

Oil catch cans grab not just oil, but often catch water vapors(especially during SAI engagement) and fuel, and carbon. You dont any of want that in your sump, I know some factory cars do this, its more for EPA than for clean oil.

the reason to return all that to INTAKE is it cab be burned off, and the heavy oils, with carbon suspended, gets caught and dumped.

I rather refill old dirty blow by oil than channel that back into the car

The way the Crawford is designed the vapors escape out the top of the aos and back into the intake. They originally had issues in colder climates where the water vapor would condense so they actually run the engine coolant through the AoS to keep that from happening. It's designed as a separator, not a catch can with a drain back into the oil pan.

People have been successful using them on turbo Subarus upwards of 500-600hp in race applications for several years now.