Stock Rear View Camera for Fujitsu Ten?

[michaelahess]

Originally Posted by Flat Black VW

I guess that works for most people. Im lucky enough to work at a shop where we sell Rydeen cams so mine was wholesale.

Lucky bas****

[Norkoastal]

Originally Posted by Flat Black VW

I guess that works for most people. Im lucky enough to work at a shop where we sell Rydeen cams so mine was wholesale.

Can we get a GB going or what? I'm sure there are at least 10-20 of us who want backup cams and would need both the cam and all installation wires/harnesses. :happy0180:

[DSPographer]

Originally Posted by Norkoastal

Can we get a GB going or what? I'm sure there are at least 10-20 of us who want backup cams and would need both the cam and all installation wires/harnesses. :happy0180:

I would like a group buy for the harness. I think we can choose the camera we want without a group buy. I doubt that there is much difference between a $200 camera and a metal case one with IP67 weatherproofing like a Pyle that is $35 from Amazon.

[Foobar]

Originally Posted by DSPographer

I would like a group buy for the harness. I think we can choose the camera we want without a group buy. I doubt that there is much difference between a $200 camera and a metal case one with IP67 weatherproofing like a Pyle that is $35 from Amazon.

Not sure if SVXdc does group buys but the basic composite video to two wires w/ necessary pin receptacles will run you $14 plus shipping.

That's not a bad deal, honestly. You could certainly save a few bucks by doing it yourself if you have the necessary parts / tools lying around. If not, it'll cost you only a bit cheaper if you order the parts yourself, then you have to get a TE hand tool to properly crimp the receptacles.

As far as ease of installation - you basically take the two ends and plug them into your existing 16-pin harness at pins 1 and 16. Done.

If you want to do the whole video in motion bypass jobbie, then you have to cut and ground the existing gray wire, or if you prefer to keep your stock wiring virgin, remove it from the harness and attach your own ground wire. Then add a remote toggle switch on the 28-pin connector's VSS wire (pin 17 I believe). Now you don't need your ebrake on and can be in motion while having full access to video, phone, navigation input, etc. Don't wrap yourself around a tree.

By the way, I didn't find it necessary to ground pin 15 of the 16-pin harness. Not sure what that's for, but the rearview camera works fine without that connected.

As for my camera itself, as mentioned earlier, I routed the wiring up the license plate light opening, through a grommet that I replaced one of the bolts with (that rear fascia thing had 5 bolts and a snap-on holding it down, it won't miss one of them). I then followed the existing wiring through the sleeve that brings the trunk lid into into the trunk body, then on to the driver side panel, through the door sill, and to the fusebox and headunit. The camera was given its own fuse which is on with ACC.

Only other thing I had to do was readjust the headunit's guidelines over to the left and down a bit. The stock camera location is on the left side underneath that trunk lid fascia, so the camera guidelines were pushed off to the right to compensate for center. Since my license plate camera is dead center, I had to bring the lines back to the left. Based on how I have my camera's angle set (bumper is just barely visible on the bottom of the screen), I had to bring the grid lines down a bit as well. I guess the stock camera shows more of the bumper, but that's not that useful in my opinion - I'd rather see more of the area behind the car, than more of the car itself.

[Flat Black VW]

Originally Posted by Norkoastal

Can we get a GB going or what? I'm sure there are at least 10-20 of us who want backup cams and would need both the cam and all installation wires/harnesses. :happy0180:

I usually sell these cameras (the Rydeen Miny, which I used on my car from the OP) at $150 retail. If anyone is interested I can sell them at $100 plus $10 for shipping. This is more than a lot of the cameras on Amazon/eBay, but it is a proven part that will definitely last. Also you can eliminate the lines on this unit and you can reverse the image on them if you want. If anyone is interested PM me and we can get one out to you, I usually have 6-10 in stock and will ship as soon as the order is processed.

I will not be making it a package with the plugs since the plugs can be bought from SVXdc for the same price that I get them for.

MODS: this is not me trying to be a vendor without paying or anything, I posted this since someone asked. If you want me to remove this I will.

[Norkoastal]

Do we have guestimates yet on the price of the harness?

[xjohnx]

got all of the parts i need, well, almost. I ordered a BOYO camera on amazon but received a fake. i'll probably just head down to my local car audio shop to try and buy a rydeen or equivalent.

[Furtive]

sounds interesting to install.. but i have never ran wire from the back a car to the front. How long should I expect on installing? A whole day?

[xcelir8brz]

Originally Posted by Furtive

sounds interesting to install.. but i have never ran wire from the back a car to the front. How long should I expect on installing? A whole day?

Newbie...few hours.

[Foobar]

Originally Posted by Furtive

sounds interesting to install.. but i have never ran wire from the back a car to the front. How long should I expect on installing? A whole day?

If you've never done any wiring on a car before, but you've used some tools in your life, I would guess you could get it done in a couple hours or so.

This is basically whats involved:

• Remove the trunk lid liner (pop out a bunch of push tabs with a flathead screwdriver).
• Unbolt the trunk fascia that houses the license plate lights/trunk lock/trunk release (5 8mm bolts and a plastic tab).
• Remove (or just loosen the top part of) the interior panel on the driver side of the trunk and rear seat (more push tabs that you undo with a flathead).
• Optional - remove the door sill runner, or just leave it since the wiring isn't that thick you can coax it through the side easily enough.
• Unfasten the wiring sleeve that allows wires to route from the trunk lid to the car body inside the trunk.
• Mount your camera (varies depending on model).
• Wiring starts from the trunk lid, fish it through the sleeve, into the trunk, along the paneling that you have exposed, under the door sill runner, to the fuse box on the driver's kickpanel for power (use an add-a-circuit to tap into power).
• If you haven't already done so, remove the headunit by pulling the plastic trim around the headunit out using a plastic pull tool or a flathead screwdriver covered with soft material so as not to scratch anything. Once the trim is pulled out (it just snaps out), use a socket wrench to remove the four bolts holding the headunit in place - I believe it's a 10mm. Now you can pull the headunit out and unharness the 16-pin connector.
• Connect your camera's video input to the 16-pin connector (pins 8 and 16).
• Put everything back the way you found them.
• Calibrate your camera's viewing angle if necessary, and adjust the headunit's distance line markers per your preference.
• Enjoy!

Edit: This isn't the only or best way to do it - this is simply a basic overview of what you would need to do. This is how I did it, and I'm happy with the results.

[Foobar]

Originally Posted by Norkoastal

Do we have guestimates yet on the price of the harness?

No need to guess, SVXdc is already taking orders. It's $14 for just the Composite Video to two wires with pin receptacles that plug right into the stock 16-pin harness. Add another $2 or so if you want to bypass the e-brake ground wire (it's another wire, with U shape connector and in pinterface that replaces the gray wire already in the stock harness, or you can cut that existing gray wire and ground it).

If you want the true plug-n-play solution that takes the existing interface, plugs it into a reverse interface which then connects to the headunit, we have to wait for SVXdc to finish that.

Add shipping of your choice on top of the price. I received mine a couple of business days after he shipped it out priority mail.

Alternatively, you could try and find the Eclipse UC100 Universal harness. Only problem is the harness interface is not the size that our headunit requires. As a workaround, you can extract the two pin receptacles from the 6-pin and attach them directly to the headunit's 8 and 16 pins without the harness. You can't use the stock harness because the Eclipse's pin recptacles are too big to fit in the housing, but they do fit the pins themselves. This approach is more expensive than going with SVXdc's solution, and isn't a secure attachment without a proper harness housing. It will work, however.

[Foobar]

Originally Posted by xjohnx

got all of the parts i need, well, almost. I ordered a BOYO camera on amazon but received a fake. i'll probably just head down to my local car audio shop to try and buy a rydeen or equivalent.

What do you mean it was a fake? Did you inform Amazon? Those guys usually bend over backwards for me whenever I have a problem with an order. I got my BOYO ultra slim camera from them. It's the one that goes on top of the license plate, not the one that's a complete frame.

[Foobar]

Originally Posted by sure74

OK, I just ordered the Rydeen Mobile ZH07-150B from eBay and the RCA w\pins from SVXdc. Assuming everything goes well with the eBay order I should have a factory looking setup for around $160. Considering I paid $180 for the Homelink mirror this seems like a good value to me.

That's the Rydeen Duo, right? Let me know how that works out for you - I was actually thinking of going with that before I decided on BOYO's license plate camera. Since I have the Limited, I wouldn't have been able to mount it above the license plate due to the trunk release button taking up that space. I would've moved it over to the left of the license plate light, and I didn't want an off-center camera (although our stock headunit apparently defaults to that for the grid lines).

That also would've required me to drill into the trunk fascia. I wasn't quite ready to do that yet, but it is an easily replaced part, so I guess you could always go back to stock if you needed to.

[sparks]

Originally Posted by Foobar

although our stock headunit apparently defaults to that for the grid lines.

Correct, the firmware for the review camera is defaulted to the Forester. It's camera mounts about 18 inches off center.