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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.

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Old 08-02-2012, 08:17 PM   #15
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We have started this project and I felt obligated to let all the members know.
Who is "we"?
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:20 PM   #16
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I don't want to discourage you but I've built plenty of aluminum exhausts, for street and race, my conclusion is thy are okay for a racecar but will eventually die. For example, you start out with a T6 aluminum. Just the heat from welding it will drop it almost to a bottem series. What makes it worse it it's going to happen right at your welds. This along with vibration will lead to a lot of complaints and returns. So if I could offer you any advise I wouldn't do it. Also the vibrant mufflers are shit, the weight of itself pulls down where the circles are welded to round stock for the entries, the welds always break. If you want to have a chance I advise making the muffler yourself, the wall is 0.625 , a recipe for disaster. Hope this helps, I'm just trying to save you a headache.

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Old 08-08-2012, 09:40 PM   #17
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Haters gonna hate. I'll have finished pictures Friday
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Old 08-08-2012, 09:52 PM   #18
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Hey, they aren't hating on your endeavor at all. They are only hating on the properties of aluminum.
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Old 08-08-2012, 10:07 PM   #19
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Hey, they aren't hating on your endeavor at all. They are only hating on the properties of aluminum.
A-lou-mini-um
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Old 08-09-2012, 01:54 AM   #20
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Ah, it looks like a coffee can that civic ricers put on their car.

def not for everyone.
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Old 08-09-2012, 02:52 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epson1 View Post
"Waaaaa the aluminum will break and shit"

If you have a wife and/or girlfriend you probably won't want this exhaust. Its going to be loud. But classy like a Guns and Roses concert. Droning on the interstate? Probably. Turn your radio up.

Did I mention they are full vband and priced 200$ lower than every other cat back?

so $300?
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:47 PM   #22
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Is that 3" piping?
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Old 08-09-2012, 04:41 PM   #23
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Yeah, we're not trying to be haters, we're just trying to be helpful and informative to the community.
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Old 08-09-2012, 04:44 PM   #24
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Haters gonna hate. I'll have finished pictures Friday
Welding it or bonding it?
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Old 08-09-2012, 04:47 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ANTI_LAG View Post
For example, you start out with a T6 aluminum. Just the heat from welding it will drop it almost to a (bottem series).


If you want to have a chance I advise making the muffler yourself, the wall is (0.625 ),
Dave

I assume you meant something like T4 temper in the first statement, which with heat cycling will quickly resume T6 considering that is how you age, or "temper" aluminum...but it will become brittle and while it's hot it will sag as the material becomes more elastic

I believe in the second statement you meant to state that it is .0625 thickness, obviously a muffler made of 5/8 (.635) would weigh far too much to even make sense.

At the ed of the day we all know what the outcome will be, the OP obviously is not open to input or suggestions, I just hope he has sense enough to remove the fiber under tray so that when it melts thru from the EGT's and pressure he doesn't catch the under tray on fire...
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Old 08-09-2012, 08:17 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkullWorks View Post
I assume you meant something like T4 temper in the first statement, which with heat cycling will quickly resume T6 considering that is how you age, or "temper" aluminum...but it will become brittle and while it's hot it will sag as the material becomes more elastic

I believe in the second statement you meant to state that it is .0625 thickness, obviously a muffler made of 5/8 (.635) would weigh far too much to even make sense.

At the ed of the day we all know what the outcome will be, the OP obviously is not open to input or suggestions, I just hope he has sense enough to remove the fiber under tray so that when it melts thru from the EGT's and pressure he doesn't catch the under tray on fire...
I'll have to double check (other stuff in the rod may affect this) but since it's completely melting and not rapidly cooled, there will be no precipitation hardening in the bead. This would effectively be T0 so no amount of heat cycling will bring it back to T6. For the HAZ around the bead, the T4 bit may be correct.



The precipitation hardening (from 6xxx's silicon) is a rather complicated process to ensure the silicon causes even crystalization.
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Old 08-09-2012, 08:37 PM   #27
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in my experience 6000 series aluminum only stays T0 while in a controlled temperature state, basically if it is allowed to assume room temperature it is basically T4 by that point.

There maybe something else going on in the weld bead that I am unaware of (we do not weld on any of our flight parts.)

If you find a paper on any specific alloying concerns related to the weld joint or bead please forward them, I am always interested in learning.
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Old 08-09-2012, 09:23 PM   #28
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Quote:
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in my experience 6000 series aluminum only stays T0 while in a controlled temperature state, basically if it is allowed to assume room temperature it is basically T4 by that point.

There maybe something else going on in the weld bead that I am unaware of (we do not weld on any of our flight parts.)

If you find a paper on any specific alloying concerns related to the weld joint or bead please forward them, I am always interested in learning.
You're confusing the hardening with the aging. Alcoa should have details on their site.
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