SCCA DST Setup Thread(2025)

[cmiovino]

Back on topic - anyone actually running an OFT with their header for autocross purposes?

I've put off doing the header and tune because I don't want to invest $700 in a header, plus ~$1200-1500 going the ECUtek route. It's somewhere around $2k total.

My thought process is install a used header for $400, get the OFT for $350. Run the OTS map for a season or two, then go the ECUtek route another year to space out the costs. I ran the Cobb OTS stage 2 map on my WRX for 13+ years now, 5 of which it did some extensive autocross.

... but I'm also terrified because everyone is "OFT is bad". But yet, the stock tune is "off the shelf" in a way too.

[DocWalt]

I ran an OFT and a few folks do nationally. Being able to tune the car yourself and log on the tablet is quite nice.


The OFT tunes are "meh" but you can make just as much power and get a lot of other nice stuff done with OFT by dialing in the tune. The only thing you can't do are the ECUtek "RaceRom" features like changing the LC RPM on the fly and changing maps on the fly. OFT is also *slow* to flash and the software is pretty clunky on the PC side.

[RT-BRZ]

Originally Posted by cmiovino

Back on topic - anyone actually running an OFT with their header for autocross purposes?

I've put off doing the header and tune because I don't want to invest $700 in a header, plus ~$1200-1500 going the ECUtek route. It's somewhere around $2k total.

My thought process is install a used header for $400, get the OFT for $350. Run the OTS map for a season or two, then go the ECUtek route another year to space out the costs. I ran the Cobb OTS stage 2 map on my WRX for 13+ years now, 5 of which it did some extensive autocross.

... but I'm also terrified because everyone is "OFT is bad". But yet, the stock tune is "off the shelf" in a way too.

Honestly, it's all about the tune and not so much about whether it's ECUTek or OFT. The header also matters since you can only squeeze just so much out of these engines in NA form. Personally, I ran ECUTek with a JDL 4-2-1 header and a OTS tune from Delicious Tuning. It worked very well. That setup eliminated the torque dip and the car performed as well as the engine could in NA form. OTS tunes on an NA car aren't the devil they are on boosted cars.

So, in my opinion, the header comes first in this conversation then the tuning platform. A header that doesn't offer much benefit limits how effective either platform can be. A good tuner should be able to work on either platform.

[steverife]

The primary reason I choose ECUtek was changing launch control on the fly and the rev match.

With that said, had I gone OFT, I would have leaned on friends with tuning experience to get me dialed in.

[spcmafia]

Im currently running JDL catted headers with an OFT Tune but tailored by our former member Steve99. I think he is available on Facebook.

[CB750F]

I have a OFT with Gruppe-s UEL. I have no complaints, makes the car a little more nervous. I've had this setup for 5 yrs? No issues.
For some reason I thought it was ok to have only 1 catalytic converter & still stay in DST?
Guess I'll go to XA?

[RT-BRZ]

Originally Posted by CB750F

I have a OFT with Gruppe-s UEL. I have no complaints, makes the car a little more nervous. I've had this setup for 5 yrs? No issues.
For some reason I thought it was ok to have only 1 catalytic converter & still stay in DST?
Guess I'll go to XA?

Unless the ST rules changed, you can have one cat as long as it's within about 6" of the location of the original cat you're replacing. So, in our cars, it's common to not have a catted header but to have the cat on the front pipe like the OEM setup has.

[CB750F]

Originally Posted by RT-BRZ

Unless the ST rules changed, you can have one cat as long as it's within about 6" of the location of the original cat you're replacing. So, in our cars, it's common to not have a catted header but to have the cat on the front pipe like the OEM setup has.

Thanks, this is what I thought , but others are arguing this point.

[RT-BRZ]

Originally Posted by CB750F

Thanks, this is what I thought , but others are arguing this point.

In the 2025 rule book, look at section 14.10 D and E. It's on page 99.

Also, for things like this, ChatGPT does an excellent job of digesting the information if you point it specifically at the link to the rules.

[CB750F]

Originally Posted by RT-BRZ

In the 2025 rule book, look at section 14.10 D and E. It's on page 99.

Also, for things like this, ChatGPT does an excellent job of digesting the information if you point it specifically at the link to the rules.

Much appreciated.

[Spuds]

My final '25 setup, now that I'm actually happy with it at the end of the season...

Suspension:
RCE T2, 400/6k all around, pretty close to recommended damper settings, need to go find my notebook...
Vorshlag front camber plates, stock rear
Verus RLCA
0Toe, 3.9F/2.3R, 7Caster, lowered about an inch from stock, bit of rake
Perrin 19mm front on stiff, stock rear, whiteline endlinks all around

Chassis:
STI motor/transmission mounts
Perrin shifter bushing
Poly steering rack bushings
Diff/rear subframe inserts

Power:
AFE drop in filter
OFT currently running one of Wayno's roms, might need some tweaking. Ran OFT OTS for a while and wanted to try some other stuff.
JDL EL+OP+UQFP with a HKS Spec-L cat back. (Drones like a MF but sounds great outside the car lol)

Friction things:
Apex Arc8 17x9+35
Re71RS 245
Ferodo DS2500 pads
Castrol SRFbrake fluids
Amsoil gear and diff oils

Other:
STM tuned lightweight Battery kit (Odyssey agm something...)
Full OEM under panels

Probably not legal:
Ultra's clutch slave cylinder swap. I think it's within the spirit of the rules at least, just without doing the work to replace the clutch/mess with pedal stuff.

Notes/to do:
-Need to fix the exhaust so I can actually drive places without getting a headache.
-The balance is near perfect IMO, could use a tad more oversteer tendency, but not sure where to get it from, maybe mess with the dampers a bit more. Mild perrin rear sway was too stiff I think.
-Could probably get a bit better overall performance going down another 0.25 inch but I think I was getting front roll center issues last year so I don't want to go down too much.
-How is everyone holding themselves in the seat? Harness, CG-Lock, aftermarket seats, secret technique? Looking to improve my driving position/restraints.
-Maybe more bushings up front but that's a PITA.
-Need to drive more, all my friends are faster than me...

[BlueWhelan]

Originally Posted by Spuds

My final '25 setup, now that I'm actually happy with it at the end of the season...

Suspension:
RCE T2, 400/6k all around, pretty close to recommended damper settings, need to go find my notebook...
Vorshlag front camber plates, stock rear
Verus RLCA
0Toe, 3.9F/2.3R, 7Caster, lowered about an inch from stock, bit of rake
Perrin 19mm front on stiff, stock rear, whiteline endlinks all around

Chassis:
STI motor/transmission mounts
Perrin shifter bushing
Poly steering rack bushings
Diff/rear subframe inserts

Power:
AFE drop in filter
OFT currently running one of Wayno's roms, might need some tweaking. Ran OFT OTS for a while and wanted to try some other stuff.
JDL EL+OP+UQFP with a HKS Spec-L cat back. (Drones like a MF but sounds great outside the car lol)

Friction things:
Apex Arc8 17x9+35
Re71RS 245
Ferodo DS2500 pads
Castrol SRFbrake fluids
Amsoil gear and diff oils

Other:
STM tuned lightweight Battery kit (Odyssey agm something...)
Full OEM under panels

Probably not legal:
Ultra's clutch slave cylinder swap. I think it's within the spirit of the rules at least, just without doing the work to replace the clutch/mess with pedal stuff.

Notes/to do:
-Need to fix the exhaust so I can actually drive places without getting a headache.
-The balance is near perfect IMO, could use a tad more oversteer tendency, but not sure where to get it from, maybe mess with the dampers a bit more. Mild perrin rear sway was too stiff I think.
-Could probably get a bit better overall performance going down another 0.25 inch but I think I was getting front roll center issues last year so I don't want to go down too much.
-How is everyone holding themselves in the seat? Harness, CG-Lock, aftermarket seats, secret technique? Looking to improve my driving position/restraints.
-Maybe more bushings up front but that's a PITA.
-Need to drive more, all my friends are faster than me...

Are you using the 2013 rear bar, or the newer 15mm rear bar?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by BlueWhelan

Are you using the 2013 rear bar, or the newer 15mm rear bar?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's the 2013 rear bar.

[jcaserta]

Originally Posted by Spuds

-How is everyone holding themselves in the seat? Harness, CG-Lock, aftermarket seats, secret technique? Looking to improve my driving position/restraints.

Core strength and bracing left foot on the dead pedal lol.

Or buying a race seat. Even without a harness if the seat fits you pretty well you'll be held in. Which obviously saves some weight as well.

I don't know anyone trying to do in between with a harness and stock seat.

I'm still on stock seat, if I stay in DST next year I'll put in a race seat.