Battery Cutoff switches ? post your setup

[philooo]

ok so after looking at some options, I think I have 2 choices to make:

V1: CUT EVERYTHING
I cut off everything at the positive side of the battery, but then I don't control where the potential alternator spike will go. Hopefully it will not blow something in the electrical system before going into the resistor.

V2: CUT WTH HELP OF IGNITION SWITCH
I follow more closely the switch manual and tap into the alternator wire more specifically, which will guarantee the potential spike will go only to the resistor when switch is off. And use the other switch pole to cutoff the ignition wire.
Result is that same but the electrical cutoff is similar to removing the ignition key. There is still power in many wires around the car, even though the car will be stopped.

Anybody has opinion on the which way to go ?
see my schemas attached, an also the 3 pages of the electric manual relevant to the install.

[Joesurf79]

Hey Philoo - Did you ever get your kill switch successfully installed?

I'm trying to work out installing a Pegasus 4430 kill switch with the alternator protection contacts seen here:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/do...ocID=TECH00109

I have it all figured out except for where to splice in the ignition wires - one side goes to the switch, and the other to the coil. After an hour or so trying to make heads or tails of the wiring manual pdf - I'm even more confused lol...anyone have any insight into which ignition circuit to cut the switch into?

[sfruski]

Just FYI for people, when setting up a four prong switch, set the main posts for battery hot, set the two small posts to the RED/BLUE wire on the alternator. ( Cut the wire and run one half to each side to the cut off.)

[bmacfrs]

Originally Posted by Joesurf79

Hey Philoo - Did you ever get your kill switch successfully installed?

I'm trying to work out installing a Pegasus 4430 kill switch with the alternator protection contacts seen here:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/do...ocID=TECH00109

I have it all figured out except for where to splice in the ignition wires - one side goes to the switch, and the other to the coil. After an hour or so trying to make heads or tails of the wiring manual pdf - I'm even more confused lol...anyone have any insight into which ignition circuit to cut the switch into?

@Philoo
I would like to know also. Where on OE harness is best place to tap in?

[RedReplicant]

I don't know how useful this is to you all, but this is how mine is set up. It worked when my car was stock ECU and it works now with my Haltech.

Short story is it interrupts IG2 MAIN fuse, wires enter the fusebox where the big trunk of cables does. It cuts power to the ECU but leaves the keyless entry and other stuff working.

[downshiftxlr8]

Figured I would share my setup on the newer (2025) Cartek X-Club Battery Isolator and how I got it setup so that it might help future 86 track people pass tech.

Thanks to @RedReplicant for sharing his setup. Greatly helped me get mine installed.

Hardest Part IMHO is getting that darn fuse box open. You have to disengage all the tabs on the sides at the same time and pull up. Once you have access to the bottom side of the fuse box you want the White/Black wire going from the IG2 Main 30A fuse to the IG2 Relays Pin 5.

Splice it at an even length and run some 14 awg wire from the two leads you created out the back of the fuse box near the big bundle; please crimp and shield all connections you make.






Since I like the idea of having the fuse between power and the ECU I opted to wiring in a 30A 4 Pin Relay to cut the power between IG2 Main and the IG2 Relay. The Cable from IG2 Main Fuse wires to PIN 30 on the Relay and PIN 87 on the Relay goes to the IG2 Relay Pin 5. The Engine Stop signal from the isolator is wired to Pin 86 and Pin 85 gets wire to a chassis ground.



Mount your external kill switch they provide to some place you want it ; I chose passenger side on the plastic cowl panel near where I planned to mount the isolator. Run the wires to the internal switch they provide ; mount where convenient or based on org rules. (Just remember the internal switch Black to Black and Red to Red as it has a light).



Prep the mounting area so the isolator makes good contact with the service, I drilled out 2 holes to mount some bolts through the firewall which you can reach from the inside from behind the dash amazingly; assuming you have all the ac stuff removed. Mount the two free grounds to the mount points. Make a battery negative cable and attach that to the isolator.

Make sure all your cables are ran and protected. Attaches the positive battery terminal and then the single battery negative connection and you should see a blue status LED.

Test the system out for any faults.



This was probably super clear based on Carteks instructions to some folks, however, sometimes I need my hand held

I hope this helps others in the future.

[Totemo_Hayai]

@downshiftxlr8 Have you had any issues with your installation? The power cut wire X-Club version is only rated for 10amps, but the wire you replaced appears to be fused to handle 30amps. Maybe it never actually carries more than 10 amps and is fine.


I tried using a fuse tap to provide power to the protected side of the 7.5 amp IG2 circuit, but am having trouble with electronic noise. It throws codes and the car won't shut off with the key. I may need to clean up my wiring inside the fuse box area. I'm also a bit concerned that I might have the same problem with interference if I splice into the white and black wire.

[downshiftxlr8]

Originally Posted by Totemo_Hayai

@downshiftxlr8 Have you had any issues with your installation? The power cut wire X-Club version is only rated for 10amps, but the wire you replaced appears to be fused to handle 30amps. Maybe it never actually carries more than 10 amps and is fine.


I tried using a fuse tap to provide power to the protected side of the 7.5 amp IG2 circuit, but am having trouble with electronic noise. It throws codes and the car won't shut off with the key. I may need to clean up my wiring inside the fuse box area. I'm also a bit concerned that I might have the same problem with interference if I splice into the white and black wire.

I the X-Club is switching a relay i wired in between the IG2 wires, so when the kill switch is activated it flips that relay which closes that connection. Its not powering IG2 by any means.