Topping brake fluid

[WNDSRFR]

Originally Posted by Sapphireho

Ok, first maybe you could clarify what you know about the history of the car. You said in another thread you bought is with 43km, then first post of this thread you said you bought it in 2018 and now has 85km?

So did you buy it in '18 with 43km, and you've driven it to 85000km? If this is true, with no service other than oil changes, I would:

Have brakes inspected, replace pads and rotors if needed, replace brake fluid.

Service transmission. (AT or MT)

Service rear end.

Flush cooling system. Replace with proper anti-freeze. It's early mileage wise, but car is almost 10 year old, so I would do.

I'll assume you are changing air filter at proper intervals?

CGS has a good link to give you an idea of maintenance needs

https://www.counterspacegarage.com/b...86-subaru-brz/

Thanks for the reminder. I guess I should clean my air filter. Last time I did that was at least 100,000 miles ago.

[Sapphireho]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

You're kidding me! Every 30K miles?
That means I should have changed it 7 times by now.
I've changed it 0 times. Added a little fluid once because it was a little low. I added about a bottle caps full. Brakes work fine.

Old brake fluid is very bad for master cylinders and calipers. Easier and cheaper to change fluid than replace a sticky caliper.

[WNDSRFR]

OK
You're right. I should do that too.
I'll get around to it the next time it's not hot as hell or raining.

[Sapphireho]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

OK
You're right. I should do that too.
I'll get around to it the next time it's not hot as hell or raining.

Another 100,000 miles in Florida.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

You're kidding me! Every 30K miles?
That means I should have changed it 7 times by now.
I've changed it 0 times. Added a little fluid once because it was a little low. I added about a bottle caps full. Brakes work fine.

More than anything, it's the only way to gauge the internal health of your brakes. When you bleed them, don't expect to get any air. If you do, that's a red flag. Look for a corresponding increase in pedal stiffness. This is why I don't like the vacuuming types of bleed kits. I want to hear/feel the crackle of any air released under pressure the first time I slowly open the valve. If there isn't, I'm a happy camper.


Then look at the condition of the captured fluid. If it's shitty, keep bleeding until it looks fresh. Stay on top of the fluid in the reservoir. It's a bad day if the master cylinder sucks air.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

You're kidding me! Every 30K miles?
That means I should have changed it 7 times by now.
I've changed it 0 times. Added a little fluid once because it was a little low. I added about a bottle caps full. Brakes work fine.

I flush mine yearly

Reminds me, need to do my truck.

[droopynips]

So my friends, it appears to me that the mechanic said i just need to top up my fluid as it is swishing at stops and triggers the sensor. It is currently right at the min line, what level do you lads keep yours at? Do I need to wait for the engine to cool fully to place the new fluid?

Thank you friends

[gen3v8]

Originally Posted by droopynips

So my friends, it appears to me that the mechanic said i just need to top up my fluid as it is swishing at stops and triggers the sensor. It is currently right at the min line, what level do you lads keep yours at? Do I need to wait for the engine to cool fully to place the new fluid?

Thank you friends

Mine continually goes up and down. So I keep it no lower than minimum and no higher than maximum. This is where the system is designed to operate safely and correctly. The minimum level giving you warning, not usually triggering the light.