GR86 Tire question

[alex87f]

Originally Posted by stilesg57

Why not when they’re the majority value-wise of a $1,500 package…

There are other reasons to get the base model than just wheels and tires IMO:

- I don’t like the duckbill spoiler (this is a big reason why I’m favoring the BRZ)
- Ultrasuede on high-touch areas like the seats and upper door panels (ask me what the alcantara steering wheel on my old ZHP 330i looked like after 30k miles)

Really the only thing I actually want off the higher trim is the blind spot system. Wish I could get that a la carte.

If it's anything like US vs. EU GT86s, I'd definitely get the highest trim. There's a host of small bits & pieces that are better on the premium cars, which don't seem like much but cost a ton to retrofit (knee pads would be one, heated seats, auto AC, keyless, power folding mirrors, etc.).

I'd get the premium car, and but a set of used FRS wheels to put winter tyres on. They'll fit, and cost absolutely nothing on the used market. Pretty sure you could score a set for a hundred bucks, and have full winter wheels with new winter tyres for $500.

Have to say the duckbill spoiler is a bit of a surprise.. I'm no big fan of it either, but I'm sure you'll be able to find someone with a base car that you can swap trunk lids with (on the GT86, all it takes is four bolts to remove it)

[stilesg57]

Yeah I’m keeping my options open just laying out my complaints, ha.

If the 86Premium/BRZLimited feels substantially better overall I’ll try my luck with the ultrasuede and just get 18” winter tires for the higher trim wheels then do my own wheel/tire set for summers. But if it’s not noticeably nicer I’d love to save the money, get the base, skip the suede and get the bitter winter wheels.

[dragoontwo]

Originally Posted by Sasquachulator

try not to get confused.
The GR86 is base and premium.
The BRZ is premium and limited (i think)

Well, doesn't that just figure. That's just silly.

That said, if anyone in the TN/KY area gets a Trueno blue premium and wants to trade ducktail for non let me know.

[Spektyr]

Originally Posted by StE92ve

This is a good explanation: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...jsp?techid=273

I read that when someone posted it to my thread a few months back. It doesn't answer the specific question of the glass transition temperature on those tires. There's a difference between the temperature where they start losing a lot of traction (but you can still drive the car home if you're careful) and the temperature at which you're literally damaging the tires just rolling along.

Originally Posted by alex87f

If it's anything like US vs. EU GT86s, I'd definitely get the highest trim. There's a host of small bits & pieces that are better on the premium cars, which don't seem like much but cost a ton to retrofit (knee pads would be one, heated seats, auto AC, keyless, power folding mirrors, etc.).

This is exactly it. I'm not ever going to walk out to this car and get in and think "wow, I'm sure glad I saved $X not getting push button start" or any of the other Premium features. My wife's Honda Fit is one trim level from max, it was literally just heated seats, mirrors, and navigation for about $3k. There are days when I wish we'd sprung for it, though I'm overall still happy with that choice. I know better than to think that'd be the case with the GR86.

Originally Posted by alex87f

I'd get the premium car, and but a set of used FRS wheels to put winter tyres on. They'll fit, and cost absolutely nothing on the used market. Pretty sure you could score a set for a hundred bucks, and have full winter wheels with new winter tyres for $500.

I hadn't thought of that. Got any for sale?

Originally Posted by alex87f

Have to say the duckbill spoiler is a bit of a surprise.. I'm no big fan of it either, but I'm sure you'll be able to find someone with a base car that you can swap trunk lids with (on the GT86, all it takes is four bolts to remove it)

I'm with you on that. I've read some people saying that the car looks better in person than in pictures, so I'm going to reserve judgement until I actually see it, but I like that solution as well. Find someone with the same color base model who wants the OG spoiler and swap. Or wait a few months until someone cracks their car up and buy the trunk lid off the carcass.


We'll see. Hopefully it's not "trying too hard". I'd own a Civic Type R already if I weren't a grown-ass adult. The new model for '22 looks reasonably refined, but it doesn't come out until Spring at the earliest.

The GR86 is just nicer, even if the spoiler is as weird IRL as it looks in pictures.

[Sasquachulator]

I remember the thread about the tires lol...gosh it was so stupid.

Bottom line, dont even try running summers in winter. Theres really no reason to find that "line" between it working and not working just so you can either save a few bucks or hope you can get home in a sudden storm. Especially since theres so many variables that can upset that delicate balance, like one of those traffic light situations where you could either gun it and beat the red, or brake really hard and stop in time. Your summers are going to provide 0 traction in both those scenarios so you wont make the light if you do find traction, and you'll likely just continue sliding forward past the red if you try to brake hard.

Its an accident waiting to happen but people can do whatever they want. I'd rather take the safe road.

[humdizzle]

i'll probably get the premium for all the bits and bobs. but i am worried that the PS4 will be a bit too grippy for shenanigans. I have the 4S on my stage 1 m3, 480wtq... and its hooks up all day. So the PS4 (non S) may be a bit overkill for the 86... until you do some power mods. but i don't want to make the car drone on the freeway.

oh well. i'm sure plenty of used 17" base wheel/tire combos will pop up for sale soon after release.

[Spektyr]

This isn't a daily driver to me. I'd like to be able to drive it when the roads aren't garbage, but I think it's important to know more about the tires on your car than "they're not good in winter".

Like I said, there's a big difference between how the tires work above and below glass transition temperature. Once they fully harden you're going to tear the tires up just rolling the car on them. That's 100% no-go. Above that temperature, but below say 50F, it's acceptable to move the car if there's a serious need, but you should avoid driving where possible.

So if you're like me, and don't currently own that car or one with wheels/tires that fit it, you're trying to determine whether you have to plan ahead and buy 4 wheels and tires just to drive it home, or if you can buy the car, drive it home, and get the wheels/tires later. I'll leave it sitting in the garage if I need to - I just want to get it ASAP so I'm done fighting with the dealership over all the stupid crap they're saying.

[NoHaveMSG]

You guys over think things too much. You are not going to die if you drive your summer tires in the winter. If you get hung out and bad weather hits, drive appropriately or hunker down if you don't feel safe. If you regularly get snow/ice it would be a good idea to get a dedicated set of winters. If it is cold and rainy, drive like you are using summer tires in cold and rainy conditions. They are not going to shed the water as well so slow down.


Hankook summer tires.



Federal all season.

[Spektyr]

If you drive on a tire below the glass transition point of the rubber you will crack and chip the tire, and void the warranty (and no, there won't be any question in anyone's mind how that damage occurred).

Will it work in an emergency? Sure. But you should probably throw those tires away and buy new ones.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Spektyr

If you drive on a tire below the glass transition point of the rubber you will crack and chip the tire, and void the warranty (and no, there won't be any question in anyone's mind how that damage occurred).

Will it work in an emergency? Sure. But you should probably throw those tires away and buy new ones.

I have never seen that in the 6-7 years I have had my car., I have heard that is a potential issue with higher performance 200TW tires and some of those warn against running below 40F. Except for the all seasons that came on my car, it has only had 340tw summers on it on the street, about 4 sets. I don't get really harsh winters, but it is usually under freezing for at least a couple months out of the year.

[MyHybridBurnsGasAndTires]

its worth considering that driving in a given ambient air temp, your tires will see different temps, higher and lower.



park your car outside overnight? your tires are cold as hell for an extended period of time which is really what can cause damage to the tire and compromise it.


park it in the garage overnight? gonna be a lot warmer than outside, even if your garage isnt heated.


once you start driving your tires absolutely heat up, depending on how fast and hard you drive it.


just some nuance to consider but yeah, definitely dont drive very far in 45* weather.

[Spektyr]

It's up to you what you do on your car, I just wouldn't personally recommend anyone operate their vehicle in a way that's likely to cause damage to it and/or increase the opportunity to create an unsafe situation.

Since I'm not the sole driver of any of our cars, I'm certainly not going to do anything that risks compromising the tires of a car my wife will drive.

There's also the perspective that taking risks with your tires has the potential to endanger other drivers on the road, should those risks turn out poorly and a sudden failure result then, or in the future. Different people have different comfort levels with that concept, and different levels of confidence (and justification for that confidence) in their ability to mitigate that risk to others.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Spektyr

It's up to you what you do on your car, I just wouldn't personally recommend anyone operate their vehicle in a way that's likely to cause damage to it and/or increase the opportunity to create an unsafe situation.

Since I'm not the sole driver of any of our cars, I'm certainly not going to do anything that risks compromising the tires of a car my wife will drive.

There's also the perspective that taking risks with your tires has the potential to endanger other drivers on the road, should those risks turn out poorly and a sudden failure result then, or in the future. Different people have different comfort levels with that concept, and different levels of confidence (and justification for that confidence) in their ability to mitigate that risk to others.

You do you. Like I said, on the occasion you need to do it, it isn't as detrimental as it is being made out to be. I have gotten about 20-30k miles out of each set of my street tires on a track alignment and winter driving. If it is that much of a concern get another set of wheels for tires matching the conditions you intend to drive in. Gen 1 wheels are almost free. Both of those pictures are not the norm, they were, "oh shit, this is my only choice so here we go." The second picture I had to go nearly 50 miles. I actually have a set of winters now.

Also, from google. I am sure this is pretty loose approximation and will very on brand and TW rating.

Rubber compounds have a physical feature known as a glass transition temperature, below which the mechanical properties of the rubber change significantly. All season tires will experience this glass transition temp closer to 0 degrees F., while summer tires will experience it in the 20-25 degree F.

Dunlops warning on the Z3, 200TW commonly used for track days.

Note: Tires exposed to temperatures of 20 degrees F (-7 degrees C) or lower must be permitted to gradually return to temperatures of at least 40 degrees F (5 degrees C) for at least 24 hours before they are flexed in any manner, such as by adjusting inflation pressures, mounting them on wheels, or using them to support, roll or drive a vehicle.

[Dake]

I... I never thought I'd see a thread sillier than the speedo-refresh one, but by golly here you go.

The reason I ask about the tires is that I was wanting to find out specifically what temperature the stock tires become brittle, so I can gauge whether I need to buy and bring a full set of new wheels/tires to the dealership just to drive it home, or if I can drive carefully (good weather, just a bit cold) and do the swap at home.

I'm more than slightly annoyed that Toyota would actually deliver a car to a customer in weather that it's entirely unsafe to drive it in, but I don't work for their liability department so it's not my job to make them less stupid.

And it's mildly annoying that I'll have to buy a whole set of rubber just to drive the car from the start - I'd been hoping to get a month or two of driving in before it got cold enough need the all-season tires, and thus spread the total cost of the car out enough that it doesn't hit all at once (for wife happiness reasons).

Yes, summer tires aren't great below freezing but you're making it sound like they're going to shatter like the T1000 after a nitrogen bath. Just don't drive like an idiot. You'll not only survive the drive home, but be able to use the tires again. While I haven't polled all the tens of thousands of owners, I'm willing to go out on a limb and suggest that the vast majority of them drove the factory tires all year 'round. I know I did. Now I know down here in Texas we only get about a week a year below freezing but somehow I didn't die or even crash during that one-week-freeze-ageddon.