Plastic Modeling

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

Been slowly working on this V1 Rocket Bunny with a 2JZ swap. Just settled on the wheels (Work VS-TX in matte gunmetal). Painted in Honda Phoenix Yellow



Carbon trans tunnel cover with "suede" shifter and ebrake boot + knob, dash mounted gauge pod and Bride Zeta 3 seats. Some JDM red checkered floor mats as well. Deep dish steering wheel with quick release hub.





Heat wrapped the turbo manifold



2JZ even has separate ignition coils



Will post when it's done (in 2025 lol)

And here is a tasty Z tune painted midnight purple III with bronze TE37 cause why not!

Sweet!

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Picked up some Milliput to try out on filling gaps. Rather messy, but seems better than the Tamiya putty I've used in the pass. Didn't exactly fill the rear bumper gap that well, but better than before.

Also cut up some styrene and made a simple rear spoiler since this kit doesn't come with one.

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

People in the hobby that I know actually just use automotive bondo. Cheaper and easier to work with than these expensive hobby putties. Haven't tried myself but seen the results

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

People in the hobby that I know actually just use automotive bondo. Cheaper and easier to work with than these expensive hobby putties. Haven't tried myself but seen the results

Never thought about that. Just assumed they're much stronger and could possibly eat away at the plastic. The Milliput I got should probably last me for the rest of the kits that I have since only one of them is Aoshima. The rest are Tamiya, so I shouldn't run into any fit and finish issues

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

People in the hobby that I know actually just use automotive bondo. Cheaper and easier to work with than these expensive hobby putties. Haven't tried myself but seen the results

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

Never thought about that. Just assumed they're much stronger and could possibly eat away at the plastic. The Milliput I got should probably last me for the rest of the kits that I have since only one of them is Aoshima. The rest are Tamiya, so I shouldn't run into any fit and finish issues

Yes you have to be carful with Bondo and some plastics. The Bondo is so aggressive it will indeed eat right through them. I have used glazing and spot putty before but even some of those can be pretty strong.


Pretty much just settled on using the Tamiya stuff over the years since it is designed for use with plastic.

It is funny you hate the Aoshima kits so much. I actually prefer them over the Tamiya ones and they are 1000 times better than the old school American company car kits. Mind you I have only built the one BRZ so far.

[turbos86]

Agree with Tcoat with regards to bondo. Putty meant for hobby/plastic use is safer to usefor plastic models kits. Tamiya putties usually gives excellent results, but they have different types of putties for different jobs. Most people make the mistake of just going for their basic white putty in a tube, because it's readily available and cheap, but that's just really only good for filling tiny holds. For filling larger gaps, Tamiya's polyester putty does a better job. And for bodykits or major modifications, they have 2 part epoxy putties.


Aoshima is another whole can of worms. Anything they've newly designed and produced in the last 10 or so years are almost as good at Tamiya. Everything else before that or re-release in a new box (pretending to be a new design) are horrible for fit and finish. The Chaser is, unfortunately, the latter.

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Yes you have to be carful with Bondo and some plastics. The Bondo is so aggressive it will indeed eat right through them. I have used glazing and spot putty before but even some of those can be pretty strong.

yeah you might be right. My circle of modding peeps deal exclusively in 1/18 scale, which is mostly diecast metal, recently with some plastic being introduced. The bumpers, where most of the work is being done, are 99 times out of 100 plastic though, but it might be a different type of plastic from Tamiya kits and such.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

yeah you might be right. My circle of modding peeps deal exclusively in 1/18 scale, which is mostly diecast metal, recently with some plastic being introduced. The bumpers, where most of the work is being done, are 99 times out of 100 plastic though, but it might be a different type of plastic from Tamiya kits and such.

It is usually ABS on the diecast. The plastic models are usually polystyrene and much thinner.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Yes you have to be carful with Bondo and some plastics. The Bondo is so aggressive it will indeed eat right through them. I have used glazing and spot putty before but even some of those can be pretty strong.


Pretty much just settled on using the Tamiya stuff over the years since it is designed for use with plastic.

It is funny you hate the Aoshima kits so much. I actually prefer them over the Tamiya ones and they are 1000 times better than the old school American company car kits. Mind you I have only built the one BRZ so far.

Originally Posted by turbos86

Agree with Tcoat with regards to bondo. Putty meant for hobby/plastic use is safer to usefor plastic models kits. Tamiya putties usually gives excellent results, but they have different types of putties for different jobs. Most people make the mistake of just going for their basic white putty in a tube, because it's readily available and cheap, but that's just really only good for filling tiny holds. For filling larger gaps, Tamiya's polyester putty does a better job. And for bodykits or major modifications, they have 2 part epoxy putties.


Aoshima is another whole can of worms. Anything they've newly designed and produced in the last 10 or so years are almost as good at Tamiya. Everything else before that or re-release in a new box (pretending to be a new design) are horrible for fit and finish. The Chaser is, unfortunately, the latter.

I don't necessarily hate Aoshima. I like how they have modded models from the box. Just the fit and finish hasn't been that good for me. Then again, the Rojam Crown and this Vertex Chaser are either discontinued or re releases. Same for the Rodextyle S15, so I'm already expecting some issues with that one too.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

I actually want the Aoshima Uras R34 Type R, but since it's just been re releases, I'm sure it will have the usual issues.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by turbos86

Agree with Tcoat with regards to bondo. Putty meant for hobby/plastic use is safer to usefor plastic models kits. Tamiya putties usually gives excellent results, but they have different types of putties for different jobs. Most people make the mistake of just going for their basic white putty in a tube, because it's readily available and cheap, but that's just really only good for filling tiny holds. For filling larger gaps, Tamiya's polyester putty does a better job. And for bodykits or major modifications, they have 2 part epoxy putties.


Aoshima is another whole can of worms. Anything they've newly designed and produced in the last 10 or so years are almost as good at Tamiya. Everything else before that or re-release in a new box (pretending to be a new design) are horrible for fit and finish. The Chaser is, unfortunately, the latter.

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

I don't necessarily hate Aoshima. I like how they have modded models from the box. Just the fit and finish hasn't been that good for me. Then again, the Rojam Crown and this Vertex Chaser are either discontinued or re releases. Same for the Rodextyle S15, so I'm already expecting some issues with that one too.

Yep. If they are releasing old kits they could be from any manufacturers moulds and that can be a real minefield. I always check reviews anymore just to make sure it isn't some 1950s release that is in a shiny new box.

[turbos86]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

I actually want the Aoshima Uras R34 Type R, but since it's just been re releases, I'm sure it will have the usual issues.

From what I've heard, the Uras R34 kits are not perfect, but not horrible either.
To be honest, getting things to fit just the way you want, that's just apart of the hobby. Even Tamiya have poor fitting kits, like their R32s.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by turbos86

From what I've heard, the Uras R34 kits are not perfect, but not horrible either.
To be honest, getting things to fit just the way you want, that's just apart of the hobby. Even Tamiya have poor fitting kits, like their R32s.

The Nismo R32 I had no problems with, at least I don't remember any. Haven't built the normal one yet (but I think that's an older tooling than the Nismo). The R33 I had issues with the windows and an odd rear toe in issue.

I don't mind fiddling a little (cuz for all I know, that could be my lack of skills ). Luckily for me, I didn't have a bad wheelbase issue with the Rojam Crown as I've rear some people having non matching chassis to body wheelbases on the regular Crown kit (and the Mine's R34). I didn't appreciate the whole moonroof issue I had with it tho (the main window part not matching up with the optional cut out area).

I think the non "Type R" Uras is a newer tooling, but I can't stand the wide body design of it compared to the "Type R" body.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

If anyone is wondering about the differences....

Uras GT-T


Uras Type R