Plastic Modeling

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by spike021

Legos count as plastic, right?

Shouldn't one of those cones be stuck in a wheel well?

[spike021]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Shouldn't one of those cones be stuck in a wheel well?

No comment!!

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Hellaflush haha. Just don't get the Supra one. Looks nothing like the Supra.

[Tcoat]

Trying to convince guys on the modeling forum that nothing looks like bare metal as much as bare metal! They all want to paint their bare aluminum with very sensitive metallic paints.

[JD001]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Well damnit that will teach me to stop researching when enough is enough!

Found another picture from an angle I haven't seen before. Now I have to add oxygen tanks and plumbing. I was just going to throw them on the scrap heap but there they are in all their glory. Also need to drop the starboard flap completely and take more material off the spine.

Photoshopped!! Ignore them.. just count yourself lucky that the wreckage isn't hiding any other more complicated stuff ie the Titanic or something as big and nasty..

[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Well damnit that will teach me to stop researching when enough is enough!

Found another picture from an angle I haven't seen before. Now I have to add oxygen tanks and plumbing. I was just going to throw them on the scrap heap but there they are in all their glory. Also need to drop the starboard flap completely and take more material off the spine.

I completely get this, I would have to fix it as well, particularly if it was going to a public setting.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Trying to convince guys on the modeling forum that nothing looks like bare metal as much as bare metal! They all want to paint their bare aluminum with very sensitive metallic paints.

I love working with aluminum foil!

[Kiske]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Trying to convince guys on the modeling forum that nothing looks like bare metal as much as bare metal! They all want to paint their bare aluminum with very sensitive metallic paints.

Meh.

I'll take some Alclad II paints over working with foil any day. Have it knocked out in a few hours vs. weeks.

I do agree that foil does produce a good look on larger aircraft IF the builder takes the time to really do it right. More than not it looks like crap though with defects and wrinkling that throws it out of scale for me. It also seems to really limit what you can do to the model after the process (weathering, washes and so on.)

In the end it is another tool/process to use. What DOES matter is the result and the enjoyment during the build.



Paint:

Foil:

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Kiske

Attachment 200587
Meh.

I'll take some Alclad II paints over working with foil any day. Have it knocked out in a few hours vs. weeks.

I do agree that foil does produce a good look on larger aircraft IF the builder takes the time to really do it right. More than not it looks like crap though with defects and wrinkling that throws it out of scale for me. It also seems to really limit what you can do to the model after the process (weathering, washes and so on.)

In the end it is another tool/process to use. What DOES matter is the result and the enjoyment during the build.



Paint: Attachment 200586

Foil: Attachment 200585

Not "foil" Bare Metal Foil. It s a modeling product that is self adhesive and very very thin. Yu don't get the issue you do trying to glue on regular foil. Take minutes to apply and is easy as can be. Far less time than having to prep the surface, have a perfect gloss black coat as a base and then spraying extremely fragile metal like paints on. Paint just does not look like real metal. Even the best of the Aclcad does not look real. The guys on the modeling forum say they don't use it because it costs too much for a 6"x11" sheet. It is $7 to $9 and goes a long way if you plan things out right. I find that funny because they will spend $20 for a pair of resin wheels since they have a slight bulge in them or $40 for a detail set that is completely enclosed inside a fuselage and can't be seen at all but then have a crappy looking fake metal finish to save a couple of bucks.

You are correct though that if that is what makes them happy and they are satisficed with the results then all is good.

[Kiske]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Not "foil" Bare Metal Foil.

I'm aware of the product. I have 4-5 different finishes on hand. I don't think mine is 6"x11 though. Bare Metal Foil i the brand with a 55(?) chevy on the front. They have them at the local hobbytown.

I much prefer Hasegawa's Tryfinish films, personally speaking. I keep their Hologram film instock at all times which is the same thing but had a reflective prismatic finish similar to a rainbow reflecting in oil slick for placing over camera lens effects and even headlights. It's not very useful in scale modeling outside of gunpla and sci-fi though. Kinda similar to the aurora films.



https://www.hlj.com/hologram-finish-sheet-hsgtf14
https://www.hlj.com/duralumin-finish-hsgtf2

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Kiske

I'm aware of the product. I have 4-5 different finishes on hand. I don't think mine is 6"x11 though. Bare Metal Foil i the brand with a 55(?) chevy on the front. They have them at the local hobbytown.

I much prefer Hasegawa's Tryfinish films, personally speaking. I keep their Hologram film instock at all times which is the same thing but had a reflective prismatic finish similar to a rainbow reflecting in oil slick for placing over camera lens effects and even headlights. It's not very useful in scale modeling outside of gunpla and sci-fi though. Kinda similar to the aurora films.



https://www.hlj.com/hologram-finish-sheet-hsgtf14
https://www.hlj.com/duralumin-finish-hsgtf2

Interesting. Never heard of it. I could use the prism one for heat colouring on jet engines (like they show) and the metal ones are interesting but rather limited in variations. There are about 8 different BMF ones so it is better to mix and match. What I found really interesting is the green one they have. I always struggle with helicopters or aircraft that have the green tinted upper canopy since the clear paints are so hard to get a perfectly even coat. This looks far easier to use. And it is relatively cheap as well!

https://www.hlj.com/top-shade-finish-green-hsgtf930

[Kiske]

I haven't used it. It's also very rare for me to even work on a car old enough to have a green windshield tint.

I tend to use Tamiya's acrylic paints for clear colors. I hated them until I figured out a few tricks to making them work better.

1. MR. Color Resin Primer. It is a clear primer for garage kits but a nice base for clear plastics (coat inside of glass) without the risk of having to sand them.

2. Think the Tamiya paints with AK Real Colors' High Compatibility thinner. For whatever reason it does a better job of breaking up the pigments which tend to ruin a transparent finish.

3. I also dip my canopies instead of spray them with a urethane clear afterwards. I used to dip them to color them also (future+clear paints) but the result was usually less than stellar.

It's been a while since I did a canopy but the last one I did was on some 1/72 Macross kits.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Kiske

I haven't used it. It's also very rare for me to even work on a car old enough to have a green windshield tint.

I tend to use Tamiya's acrylic paints for clear colors. I hated them until I figured out a few tricks to making them work better.

1. MR. Color Resin Primer. It is a clear primer for garage kits but a nice base for clear plastics (coat inside of glass) without the risk of having to sand them.

2. Think the Tamiya paints with AK Real Colors' High Compatibility thinner. For whatever reason it does a better job of breaking up the pigments which tend to ruin a transparent finish.

3. I also dip my canopies instead of spray them with a urethane clear afterwards. I used to dip them to color them also (future+clear paints) but the result was usually less than stellar.

It's been a while since I did a canopy but the last one I did was on some 1/72 Macross kits.

I use Tamiya paints about 80% and Modelmaster the rest. Mostly just due to colours available. I used Future on all my clear parts (and tinted on all my painted ones for that matter) and have used it as a dip for tinted canopies. The problem is that when it is only a partial tint then masking and spraying clear is the only way to go. Have never mastered that but I don't do it often. The green film looks perfect for the purpose.

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Been slowly working on this V1 Rocket Bunny with a 2JZ swap. Just settled on the wheels (Work VS-TX in matte gunmetal). Painted in Honda Phoenix Yellow



Carbon trans tunnel cover with "suede" shifter and ebrake boot + knob, dash mounted gauge pod and Bride Zeta 3 seats. Some JDM red checkered floor mats as well. Deep dish steering wheel with quick release hub.





Heat wrapped the turbo manifold



2JZ even has separate ignition coils



Will post when it's done (in 2025 lol)

And here is a tasty Z tune painted midnight purple III with bronze TE37 cause why not!