Lighter headers without added noise?

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by churchx

Mike_ZN6: there is less need to have also BBK rears, as most braking (thus also heat generated and wear happening) is done by fronts. No wonder Essex for their APR sprint & endurance kits for twins went with front-only route, to keep high quality, but reasonable budget.
Also i'd be careful with fitting rears from other kits, as most BBKs that have both fronts and rears, more often are made with trying to retain bias only when working in full set, less looking to ensure that both front will work with stock rears, and rears will work with stock fronts.
If you absolutely must have BBK rears, consider some full kit. There is one by APR, there is one by Willwood especially for twins. Few others. Problem being, that cost/budget skyrockets unreasonably. Better stick with fronts-only BBK, that works well with stock rears.

Looks better though

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[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by Mike_ZN6

These look perfect, almost no change in bias. This is a legit BBK for $1000. Do the 2003 WRX rear brakes also bolt on? I see Wilwood makes a similarly priced kit for the 2003 WRX rear brakes:

https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Br...eza&option=WRX

The rotors on that rear kit are actually slightly larger than the fronts. Not sure what that rear kit would do to the bias, either.

Most people who get the WW 4R keep oem rears with better pads, or swap to some nice slotted rears with better pads. If you got a rear BBK you would want the matching front set to maintain proper brake bias.

If you are NA and doing a lightweight build the stress in the brakes is a lot less vs stock weight or especially someone adding weight and tons of power with FI.

The WW 4R is solid for a DD, autox, and light tracking. Depending on how much, long, and often you go to the track they might not hold up, but brake ducts would help a lot for these on the track.

[Lantanafrs2]

An engine removal kit should be good for 250 lbs

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

your not get quiet and light with headers on this car

This is from collective experience. No cats or silencers at the forward portion of the exhaust means drone and loud noises. Usually 'light' means not a lot of muffling involved.


Pick your poison. Light and loud, quiet and heavier. You cannot get both unfortunately.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by DarkSunrise

Nice weight reduction list. If you get the 12.7lbs exedy lightweight flywheel, you’d be at a nice -200 lbs.

And I'm over here adding weight in the trunk cause it feels better balanced...

[new2subaru]

Originally Posted by weederr33

Why are we even talking about brakes in here?

Started with weight and then ...............................











.

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by weederr33

Why are we even talking about brakes in here?

Weight reduction?

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by new2subaru

Started with weight and then ...............................








.

Header for weight reduction and not HP?
What’s next, “I need help deciding what battery to get, i want something that looks cool, I don’t care about weight or CCA or Amp hours. Just want something to make the red on my car really pop?”

[Mike_ZN6]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

Maybe check Brembo or Project Mu. Some other manufacturers ya know

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I'm sure other companies make rear BBK fitments that might keep the bias correct with the front WRX Wilwood Dynapro kit, but they are all significantly more expensive. Wilwood even makes a 4R rear kit specific for the twins but it is $1,700+. The Wilwood Dynapro kits we were discussing are about $1,000 each. Front and rear BBK for $2,000 is a lot more appealing and affordable than $3,500+.

Originally Posted by churchx

Mike_ZN6: there is less need to have also BBK rears, as most braking (thus also heat generated and wear happening) is done by fronts. No wonder Essex for their APR sprint & endurance kits for twins went with front-only route, to keep high quality, but reasonable budget.
Also i'd be careful with fitting rears from other kits, as most BBKs that have both fronts and rears, more often are made with trying to retain bias only when working in full set, less looking to ensure that both front will work with stock rears, and rears will work with stock fronts.
If you absolutely must have BBK rears, consider some full kit. There is one by APR, there is one by Willwood especially for twins. Few others. Problem being, that cost/budget skyrockets unreasonably. Better stick with fronts-only BBK, that works well with stock rears.

I know you don't need the rear BBK for thermals, I'm more interested in a rear BBK for the lighter 2-piece rotors. I think the Wilwood 6R/4R kit designed for the twins is probably the way to go. That is the most affordable matching front/rear BBK setup and probably one of the lightest, too. Those WRX Wilwood Dynapro calipers are an amazing deal, it is too bad they don't have a rear we could use.

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by Mike_ZN6

I'm sure other companies make rear BBK fitments that might keep the bias correct with the front WRX Wilwood Dynapro kit, but they are all significantly more expensive. Wilwood even makes a 4R rear kit specific for the twins but it is $1,700+. The Wilwood Dynapro kits we were discussing are about $1,000 each. Front and rear BBK for $2,000 is a lot more appealing and affordable than $3,500+.



I know you don't need the rear BBK for thermals, I'm more interested in a rear BBK for the lighter 2-piece rotors. I think the Wilwood 6R/4R kit designed for the twins is probably the way to go. That is the most affordable matching front/rear BBK setup and probably one of the lightest, too. Those WRX Wilwood Dynapro calipers are an amazing deal, it is too bad they don't have a rear we could use.

WW 6R/4R I don’t think the rear are lighter. And fronts barely lighter. But they will obviously hold up to tracking abuse way better.
Rears are tough to drop weight because of parking brake. A few rotor options that lose a little weight in rear but sacrifice parking brake.

For a more hard core track setup then a real front and rear BBK like WW or AP is great.

For a more casual setup the LW WW 4R + some slotted DBA rear rotors and pads is a solid cheaper setup.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by solidONE

And I'm over here adding weight in the trunk cause it feels better balanced...

But you are also negatively effecting the polar moment of inertia.


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[JIM THEO]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

WW 6R/4R I don’t think the rear are lighter. And fronts barely lighter. But they will obviously hold up to tracking abuse way better.
Rears are tough to drop weight because of parking brake. A few rotor options that lose a little weight in rear but sacrifice parking brake.

For a more hard core track setup then a real front and rear BBK like WW or AP is great.

For a more casual setup the LW WW 4R + some slotted DBA rear rotors and pads is a solid cheaper setup.

I don't think Wilwood and AP kits are comparable, I once fitted Wilwood 6 pots in my Impreza GT MY00 an were very flexible, calipers and brackets, I replaced them with Prodrive Alcons and the difference was huge in feeling and stopping distance.
The same when I went from Wilwoods to AP5000 kit in my STI MY04, Wilwoods are a big NO for me...

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by JIM THEO

I don't think Wilwood and AP kits are comparable, I once fitted Wilwood 6 pots in my Impreza GT MY00 an were very flexible, calipers and brackets, I replaced them with Prodrive Alcons and the difference was huge in feeling and stopping distance.
The same when I went from Wilwoods to AP5000 kit in my STI MY04, Wilwoods are a big NO for me...

Never said they where comparable.
They are completely different price points.
WW 6R/4R combo is entry level BBK. With entry lvl price point $1550 front $1650 rear.
AP is a step up but at a much steeper price.

The WW 6/4R combo is still a great upgrade over oem or oem sized aftermarket rotors.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

But you are also negatively effecting the polar moment of inertia.


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It drives like it needs less to get the tail to rotate. I prefer leaving the spare in the trunk on the track as well.


and by adding weight I mean the amp for my sound system. lol