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11-10-2020, 03:44 PM | #15 |
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Using B6 or B8 will give different spring preload, right?
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11-24-2020, 01:39 PM | #16 |
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After having RCE Yellows with PP shocks, (NOT GOOD) and having tein Flex As now, it's a no brainer. Coilovers are the only way you're going to get a properly matched springs and damper valving. Otherwise you're just ballparking and settling for a solution for no apparent reason. Just go buy yourself some coilovers
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11-24-2020, 02:30 PM | #17 | |
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Did you have camber plates too?
I find this a bit surprising as my only problem was with bump travel. To the small degree I was able to "fix" it (spring spacers brought front ride height up from around -1.5" to -1.25", factory bump stops cut down from 60mm to 25mm), I saw improvements. I would have guessed that with the increased bump travel available from springs that don't lower the car as much, combined with factory or Pedders offset top mounts (instead of camber plates with roller bearings that take away bump travel) that the ride should be fine, or at least close to stock (which the stock Sachs/PP dampers do have excessive high-speed compression damping). Quote:
Ferinstance, I like the high- and low-speed rebound and compression damping *better* with non-adjustable Bilstein B8s on my BRZ than I could manage with single-adjustable Ohlins Road-and-Track setup on my FD, which to me could have used a bit *more* compression damping for the level of low-speed rebound. |
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11-24-2020, 04:23 PM | #18 | |
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As far as camber plates, no I didn't. The front shocks had too much bump for the twice-as-stiff as factory springs. I don't think it was a bump stop issue. The whole setup goes out of whack when you do mods like that. I'm sorry but you can't just throw random springs and shocks together and expect them to work properly. I've learned this the hard way and I stopped going that route. Even if Bilsteins are great shocks out of the box. My friend has Tein Flex Zs and I'd run those over a bilstein and random spring rate setup any day. |
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11-24-2020, 04:40 PM | #19 | |||
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In my case, running Swift BRZ Sports which are only 34% stiffer in front, 43% stiffer rear, I did not feel like I had insufficient damping front or rear. At the track the setup was 85% OK, and surprisingly competitive. As stated my biggest issue was lack of front bump travel with 1.25" lower ride height and further ~3/4" loss of bump travel due to camber plates... Quote:
That said, I could see that with +59% stiffer front springs (RCE Yellow) you might feel closer to being "underdamped" with factory PP Sachs struts. I did not feel that way with the 34% stiffer front Swift BRZ Sport springs. Quote:
My impressions, fwiw... |
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11-24-2020, 04:49 PM | #20 |
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11-24-2020, 05:11 PM | #21 | ||
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Quote:
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"Crashy" to me implies insufficient front bump travel and/or too much compression damping. Mine was *definitely* crashy upon initial installation, improved quite a bit by raising the front 0.25" and cutting down front bump stops from 60mm to 25mm. But I needed to be able to go further and didn't want to lose front camber, so went with the Bilsteins, which have significantly more usable front bump travel. |
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11-24-2020, 05:32 PM | #22 | |
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So we agree that RCE yellows and PP shocks give a crashy result. Unacceptable result for me. Definitely not acceptable to have to raise the car and cut the bump stops for most people. It's just not a good solution. By the time you buy camber plates and bilsteins, pay for labor 2 or 3 times, pay for alignments..just no. Lowering springs are not a good modification. And you're also going to be limited on what size wheels you can run. You don't have adjustability. And you're ballparking the damper and spring rate marriage. Tein Flex As are the correct answer here. You'd have to be insane to hodge podge this solution when the price and quality of coilovers are where they are today. |
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11-24-2020, 05:46 PM | #23 | |||||||
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Quote:
The Raceseng camber plates actually *lowered* the front of the car, I had to raise it with spacers .25" to compensate for that effect. I.e., this is nothing to do with "RCE Yellows + PP/Sachs". Cutting bump stops to run lower springs is perfectly normal and done all the time, and isn't necessarily "bad". Quote:
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I'm running 17x9 +35 and also 17x9 +40 with 3mm spacers. It's no that big a deal. with 17x8 and 225/45-17s it's less of a deal... Quote:
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11-24-2020, 05:57 PM | #24 |
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Strongly disagree with everything you are doing, but I'm sure we enjoy our cars equally, so
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The Following User Says Thank You to Var For This Useful Post: | ZDan (11-24-2020) |
11-24-2020, 06:17 PM | #25 |
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to ZDan For This Useful Post: | Racecomp Engineering (11-25-2020), Var (11-24-2020) |
11-24-2020, 09:11 PM | #26 |
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Wow what happened with this threads
There is one or more way to skin a cat. Also you don't need camber plates. I like the current dampers with yellow springs. (17 non pp) going to add peedlers top hats to get some camber without loosing any height or droop travel. Combine this with camber bolts I can get -3 degrees of camber if I wanted. Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to jflogerzi For This Useful Post: | Racecomp Engineering (11-25-2020), ZDan (11-24-2020) |
11-24-2020, 09:13 PM | #27 |
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FWIW, the Spec R spring rates are extremely close to the springs rates at ride height on the B14 kit, which has identical valving to the B6/8. The Spec R is 4.4f/5.3r vs the B14's 4.2f/5.5r. The damping should be well matched.
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11-24-2020, 09:36 PM | #28 | |
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Quote:
https://www.ftspeed.com/part/47-2283...a#.X73BQMhKhPY https://www.ftspeed.com/part/48-2282...t#.X73B9MhKhPY Front: 2.5-4.5kg progressive Rear: 3.0-7.0kg progressive |
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