2012 BRZ/FR-S Stock Class Autocross Discussion

[Sccabrz192]

Originally Posted by Evil86

RTR at first. After I learn to drive it at its limits, it'll probably go STX. R-tires, as disposable items, are just too expensive.

Season over season the difference between setup cost for a ST classed car versus stock class including the cost of the tires you run... it doesn't ever add up to saving money. I think if you add up total cost per run, you will find street tires do not really save you much money. We typically get about 100-120 runs on harsh concrete lots (toledo express, peru, lincoln, oscoda) on a set of A6s before they are trashed on the GXP.

I just never got that side of the argument to running a street tire class versus the comp tire classes. If the arguement was, I want to modify my car without making it un-streetable (SP/SM/Beyond classes), I understand that. But really... is a fully prepped ST car really THAT street-able?

[MTeator]

I sure see a lot of ST* cars on trailers or with tire trailers and swapping at the event, even local events

My ES MR2 was pretty cheap as far as stock class goes, probably cheaper than an STS miata. I ruined that when I bought a Tundra and an aluminum trailer though...

Now I'm back to a one car solution so happiness.

[xwd]

Yeah let's not turn this into a street tire versus race tire debate. At the most competitive levels you are going to see RT cars on trailers with dedicated shaved tires. RT will be cheaper than CS but obviously once you move to ST the costs are higher.

I think I've decided to give it a go in CS.

[mrazny]

I think someone should go for a 215/40, whether Star Spec or AD08. 23.8".

Besides the fact that I think people dismiss the AD08 too easily, it tends to run a bit wider. If Andy is onto something with the wheel width versus tread width, running the 235 versus the 215 might be a wash in terms of maximum lateral grip. That's an easy skidpad test. 23.8" versus 24.4" should be an easy call gearing wise too. Obviously it's not the cheapest thing in the world to test unfortunately.

So who here is a trust fund baby and can swing $800 in tires just for fun? You can possibly sell them post test for 70 cents on the dollar...

[feldy]

Ha I was swapping tires at events when I ran ST and I still do even in the RT class. Last year on RS3s I was only able to get 120 runs and 4000 street miles on a set. So this year I have not been driving on them unless I have to.

Originally Posted by MTeator

I sure see a lot of ST* cars on trailers or with tire trailers and swapping at the event, even local events

My ES MR2 was pretty cheap as far as stock class goes, probably cheaper than an STS miata. I ruined that when I bought a Tundra and an aluminum trailer though...

Now I'm back to a one car solution so happiness.

[simpleisbest]

Anyone have an oil recommendation for what we do?
I'm posting here because I don't want any "...if turbo..." type answers.

I'm considering the Toyota OEM full synthetic 0w-20. Seems to be pretty good stuff according to many oil forums and the added/lack of loss of "power" from the lighter weight seems attractive. A bit concerned about high rpm protection (not that we spend the whole run at redline though!!!).

Any thoughts?

[xwd]

I bought some Motul 8100 0w-30. That's somewhat due to my daily driving in more city-like conditions, but I figure for autox it wouldn't hurt to have a slightly higher weight oil.

There are some recommendations in the manual about running a higher weight oil for high load situations. With regards to loss of power, I don't think at temp you are going to see much if anything between a 20W and a 30W when spinning the engine at 5000+ RPM.

I know some guys doing track days have talked about running 50W oil, I don't know if I'd go to that extreme.

[Miniata]

Originally Posted by AlanLGuy

(I'm embarrassed to say my average PAX position has dropped slightly in the FR-S despite better tires and a MUCH quicker car)

That's mainly because OVR doesn't apply any sort of RT PAX multiplier to your times, so the PAX numbers you are seeing are for the straight up CS PAX. I believe some regions use a .975 PAX multiplier on top of whatever stock class PAX you're running with for the RT classes.

[touge-n00b]

Just ran my first event here at our local event. I actually ran in STX, but my car is bone stock, even the stock Michelins. But after some convincing from one of the really fast drivers here (who drove the car and was thoroughly impressed, which was good to see), I've decided to make the leap "down" into CS.

He's got a set of used 245/40 Kumhos he's willing to sell cheap. I guess my issue is, will they fit on stock wheels in the front fine? Yes, I'd like to eventually switch to a lighter wheel, but because of money I need to run the race rubber on my stockies for now (the wheels I'll be using as dailys will be 17x8). From what I've read in this thread it should clear, but I still have my doubts.

[edj]

I ran my FR-S at a local event yesterday for the first time. The only mods
were crash bolts and Hoosier tires. I have to say that the car does not have
any bad habits which was a pleasant surprise. I now understand why Strano
was complaining about the lack of torque; below 5K it is a gutless wonder.
For C Stock, I would not change sway bars until some shocks are available.
I'm looking at you Koni. I am looking forward to learning the car and going faster.

[Kido1986]

I cant wait to get this car on the track and autocross! I did one last weekend but I kept it below 5500rpm due to ~600 miles. It was also too hot for the michelins to grip at all (super slick surface).

RS3s and Konig Daylites will be here this week. Wednesday will be crashbolts and alignment. Hopefully Friday I can get Carbotech pads on and some better fluid.

Taking to Sebring for track day on Saturday. The following Friday will be a night time autocross.

[MTeator]

Originally Posted by touge-n00b

From what I've read in this thread it should clear, but I still have my doubts.

I think they'll clear fine with the stock camber, you'd have to check if you put in camber bolts.

My impression when setting up mine was was if you wanted to put a 6mm spacer in there rather than new rims you'd want longer studs too.

[RP]

Originally Posted by jdrxb9

Well, had the BRZ on the alignment rack this morning and installed the OEM camber adjustment bolts.

Would you please post the Subaru part number for these bolts?
My Subie dealer can't find them. Thanks!

RP

[jdrxb9]

Originally Posted by RP

Would you please post the Subaru part number for these bolts?
My Subie dealer can't find them. Thanks!

RP

Subaru Part - Flange bolt 14×60 (901000394)

or you can use the Scion part - SU003-02818

poster taosracer cut and paste the whole front alignment section of the Subaru FSM here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=37