Optimum alignment with aftermarket control arms

[jakezitcovich]

I bought a set of Megan Racing lowering springs. When I took it to the dealer to get the alignment they mentioned the excessive camber (around -3 degrees). I bought a set of rear control arms (Billet Racing from FT86speedfactory). I got them aligned again and notice some issues. Not only is there a major decrease in traction (to be expected) but you can feel the tires fighting for grip in any situation causing the car to sway. around sharper turns the TSC sensor goes rapid with the major loss of traction. Is there an optimum setup to help with the traction without completely destroying tires on a daily driven setup?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[i8ur911]

What's the current alignment set up?

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[jakezitcovich]

I had the alignment set back to factory standards. I’m running 17” Motegi rims with Pilot Sport 4s Tires


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[i8ur911]

Originally Posted by jakezitcovich

I had the alignment set back to factory standards. I’m running 17” Motegi rims with Pilot Sport 4s Tires


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Front or rear tires are fighting for grip?

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[jakezitcovich]

Rear. I haven’t messed with the front other than the springs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[KevlarZN6]

Most likely your rear toe is off. I had the same issue when I put on coilovers and rear control arms. I recommend getting your car aligned by a shop that knows what they’re doing. Factory specs won’t work well if you’re lowered. Dealer and normal tire shops will align it to OEM specs. I could be wrong but that’s what I concluded when I did my research.

[i8ur911]

Originally Posted by KevlarZN6

Most likely your rear toe is off. I had the same issue when I put on coilovers and rear control arms. I recommend getting your car aligned by a shop that knows what they’re doing. Factory specs won’t work well if you’re lowered. Dealer and normal tire shops will align it to OEM specs. I could be wrong but that’s what I concluded when I did my research.

Agree.

Adjusting the rear of a "twin" with adjustable rear camber arms is a bit of a pain. When adjusting the toe, the camber moves and when adjusting the camber, the toe moves. So, it takes patience and persistence to get it right.

If the shop didn't provide you with a print out of your alignment (showing before and after), I'd definitely request it.

As mentioned above, you likely need to go to a shop that "had a clue" or actually cares about the quality of work they put out.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[bfrank1972]

Folks this is the classifieds section, this probably should be in the suspension discussion area

[Face_Plant]

Originally Posted by jakezitcovich

Is there an optimum setup to help with the traction without completely destroying tires on a daily driven setup?

How much do your springs lower the car? I installed springs earlier this year that dropped the car about 1 inch and went with the most commonly recommend alignment for a daily driven FR-S/BRZ with ~1 inch lowering springs:

Front camber: -2° (maxed out Whiteline or SPC camber bolts should give you somewhere around there)
Front toe: 0
Caster: stock

Rear camber: -1.5° (.5 less toe than the front, so if you had -2.2° up front you'd want -1.7° in the rear)
Rear toe: 1/16 total toe in (helps rear stability)

If you're REALLY serious about your alignment I'd suggest asking the shop if they'll do the alignment with you (or something that weighs as much as you) in the driver's seat. If they do the alignment with no weight in the car then the alignment gets thrown off when you sit in the car. If they do it with you in the car then you're alignment will be perfect when you get in, but that's mostly for hardcore track/autocross people. I double you'll notice a difference on the street.