Just camber plates and LCAs?

[churchx]

ZionsWrath: for lot of negative camber needed to compensate lot of tire flex from lot of side-Gs .. one needs not just have different more agressive style/driving "spirited canyon runs" and such. In most cases it simply is driving 1.5-2x posted speed limits, ignoring many signs, making lot of dangerous situations on road for others, risking killing off self/passengers/other car drivers/pedestrians and such.
So i wouldn't separate out agressive driving style/spirited driving and optimal setup for that much from generic daily driving setup. Driving within speed limits (and still much faster then generic cars with high CG & less grip on average) is still within limits even of completely stock twin with completely stock alignment.
Imho not worth for daily driven only car put more camber then -1 to -1.5. As IIRC stock rear camber was -1, luckily one can for cheap via just camberbolts get -1 to -1.5 in front, which should be sufficient to make car less understeery then stock, yet camber to be optimal for best tire wear/grip without pushing 10/10 out of each and every corner on very grip limit. Excessive camber may actually reduce grip when it's scarce, eg. in wet or winter, so worth not going overboard for DD-only.
Track is only place where even not very powerful cars like ours can really be pushed.

[ZionsWrath]

Did you read my last post? IMO camber bolt or stock for DD.

My original post in response to OP was regarding his question about TRACK driving.

But we can derail this thread into a discussion of driving habits on public roads if you would like?

[churchx]

No. I was inattentive and missed track bit@OP.
Just saw you quoting question for "recommended camber for daily", and thought that your "Depends on your driving style though" was answering quoted question, not OP.

[ZionsWrath]

Originally Posted by churchx

No. I was inattentive and missed track bit@OP.
Just saw you quoting question for "recommended camber for daily", and thought that your "Depends on your driving style though" was answering quoted question, not OP.

Yes driving style is a real thing. Not everyone drives the same. There is like 15 categories of tires these days, all trying to cater to different driving styles and conditions.

OEMs try to cater to the broadest category as well as limit tire wear. Subaru thought it prudent to mention the camber bolt in the owners manual because they understand the demographic buying this car may not fit in with the broadest category of drivers.

[carlovestela]

Yeah. Daily drive only
My specs now are -0.4 front
-2.2 rear.

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

OEM camber bolt would be fine on a DD. Depends on your driving style though? Do you get even tire wear at stock specs (no camber)? If so adding camber will shorten the life of your tire in the form of inside edge wear.

It might be worth it for you, but that is an individual decision and why stock is 0 camber.

[ZionsWrath]

Originally Posted by carlovestela

Yeah. Daily drive only
My specs now are -0.4 front
-2.2 rear.

You are on springs? -2.2 rear seems a lot

Do you get inner or outer edge wear? What don't you like about the driving dynamics?

[ZDan]

As long as toe is minimized you shouldn't have excessive rear wear rate even with -2.2 camber. My daily-driver S2000 maxed out rear camber at -2.2 and I had no issues running that for years.

-0.4 front is fine for daily. If you wanted to you could use camber bolts to get more but if no plans to go to track or autoX I probably wouldn't bother.

Long short I think you're fine as long as toe is close to zero.

Originally Posted by carlovestela

Im lowered trd springs.
-0.4 front
-2.2 rear
Stock lca and no camber bolts

Originally Posted by carlovestela

Whats the recommended camber for daily?

Originally Posted by carlovestela

Yeah. Daily drive only
My specs now are -0.4 front
-2.2 rear.

[carlovestela]

Yeah. Trd springs
I like how my driving was.
My concern is the thread wear.
I think my setup is like last 3months and i want to maximize the tires. Lol
Cause my stock tires last 3years and theres a lot of life left

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

You are on springs? -2.2 rear seems a lot

Do you get inner or outer edge wear? What don't you like about the driving dynamics?

[carlovestela]

Thanks.
What about if i switch to tein flex z or bc coils
Is -2front -1.5 rear ideal for daily? And good for wear?

Originally Posted by ZDan

As long as toe is minimized you shouldn't have excessive rear wear rate even with -2.2 camber. My daily-driver S2000 maxed out rear camber at -2.2 and I had no issues running that for years.

-0.4 front is fine for daily. If you wanted to you could use camber bolts to get more but if no plans to go to track or autoX I probably wouldn't bother.

Long short I think you're fine as long as toe is close to zero.

[ZionsWrath]

ideal for daily is solely based on your specific driving conditions and habits.

If you drive like grandma to church all highway you don't want any camber or toe.

If you just drive sedate and want the car to look good lowered you still don't want camber or toe.

If you drive "spirited" you MAY want camber and/or toe.

I'm not really understanding your wants/needs.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

ideal for daily is solely based on your specific driving conditions and habits.

If you drive like grandma to church all highway you don't want any camber or toe.

Even on non-performance cars, some camber is a good idea to increase cornering grip. Even if you never plan to use it, you might *need* it some time. My generic alignment advice to NON-performance driving friends is MAX negative camber within the factory spec all around, and MINIMUM toe (i.e., closest to zero) within spec all around.

If you drive "spirited" you MAY want camber and/or toe.

Again, IMO you *definitely* want *some* camber. And whether spirited driver or not, minimal toe front and rear.

FWIW you can run pretty big camber numbers and still get reasonable tire life. It is toe that kills tires, much more so than camber. And unlike camber, there's no performance/handling benefit to running a lot of toe. Keep it minimized...

[dstrout]

Originally Posted by churchx

In most cases it simply is driving 1.5-2x posted speed limits, ignoring many signs, making lot of dangerous situations on road for others, risking killing off self/passengers/other car drivers/pedestrians and such.

Sounds like commuting in Washington, DC.

[dstrout]

For the “how much camber for DD”, think of it this way: grossly over stated, what you are doing is tipping the tops of your tires in, so in a straight line you are riding on the inside edges. You do that so that when the car leans to the side, the tire is suddenly straight up and down and presents the max amount of rubber to the road.

How much camber you need for DD depends on how much time you spend with the car leaning to one side vs the amount of time you spend going straight. On the track, we spend 100% of the fun parts leaning, so we max camber. On the street, you spend 0.01% of your time leaning far enough to have it make any difference.

Now if you are super fast, you may want to up to about 20 deg or so like this guy:

[wparsons]

Don't forget there's a balance of lateral grip vs straight line grip (including braking) with static camber. Increasing static camber will reduce braking grip in a straight line, without data from laps of both setups it's hard to tell where the balance is best set for a given car/track though. Acceleration in a straight line (not while exiting a corner) is generally less of a concern, especially with stockish power cars.