Alignment recommendations

[Vital]

Originally Posted by Geese1

Ended up going with -2.0 camber and 0 toe up front, and -1.5 camber and 1/16th toe in rear. Of course, the shop didn't hit some of those numbers exactly, but everything was close enough that it shouldn't make a difference.

Don't forget as well, I had SPC camber bolts up front, and SPC lower control arms in the rear in addition to the RCE Yellow Springs.

Car was severely in need of an alignment after the parts install, especially the lower control arms, but luckily I work from home now so I don't need to drive the car on a daily basis.

Nice, that is pretty solid. How did you manage to get -2 camber from just camber bolts up front?

[churchx]

Vital: Single set of camberbolts is "worth" aproximately upto -1.5. if one uses camberbolts at both holes, it's possible at stock height to get -2.3 camber total, if lowered, then upto -2.5.

[Geese1]

Originally Posted by Vital

Nice, that is pretty solid. How did you manage to get -2 camber from just camber bolts up front?

Don't know if this makes the difference, but I had watched a video where they installed the camber bolt in the lower of the 2 holes, and then moved the lower bolt to the upper bolt position, and this is what I did. Supposedly, this gives you a little more adjustment capability.

[Horrid_Funk]

Originally Posted by Geese1

Don't know if this makes the difference, but I had watched a video where they installed the camber bolt in the lower of the 2 holes, and then moved the lower bolt to the upper bolt position, and this is what I did. Supposedly, this gives you a little more adjustment capability.

That's the recommended way of doing it. Churchx I think is using the numbers I got out of using camber bolts in the lower and upper holes, -2.3 each side. I've gotten recommendations against doing it this way, but it's held up to 2000 miles and two track days, with plenty of hard curb hits and getting dropped off track a couple times. No slipping so far, so it's at least mildly viable. I've read that WRX's with two sets of camber bolts won't hold up to even 1 track day without slipping, so I guess the 86 can handle it better. I'll post updates on how it continues to go.

[Qwimby1]

Is there a preferred set of alignment specs for a bone stock '14 FRS DD which will get a few track days per year? I will run separate track wheels and rubber.

[kch]

Originally Posted by Qwimby1

Is there a preferred set of alignment specs for a bone stock '14 FRS DD which will get a few track days per year? I will run separate track wheels and rubber.

Bone stock? You won't really have much to work with for adjustments. If you want to get the most life (and grip) out of those track tires, you'll need -3 to -3.8 front and -2ish rear. You can get Raceseng camber plates that work with the stock front struts, and SPC RLCAs are inexpensive. Otherwise, say goodbye to your tire shoulders.



edit: you can DD with those settings, too. I DD mine at -3.5/-2.2.

[Qwimby1]

What kind of tread wear do you get on the street with those numbers?

[kch]

Originally Posted by Qwimby1

What kind of tread wear do you get on the street with those numbers?

No issues. I DDed on Dunlop Z2SS with those alignment settings and they lasted me 30k+ miles plus two track days, which is great for a 200tw tire.

[Overdrive]

Originally Posted by kch

No issues. I DDed on Dunlop Z2SS with those alignment settings and they lasted me 30k+ miles plus two track days, which is great for a 200tw tire.

[Qwimby1]

Originally Posted by kch

No issues. I DDed on Dunlop Z2SS with those alignment settings and they lasted me 30k+ miles plus two track days, which is great for a 200tw tire.

I would certainly say so! I've been tracking Miata DDs and front-engine Porsche DDs for a long time with -1.75 front and haven't had excessive shoulder wear on street or track tires. The last time I aligned the Miata I went from 5.0 to 6.4 caster, and directional stability increased significantly. The FRS will get it's first alignment under my ownership next week.

[Lakitu]

I installed suspension, wheels, tires and it seems to drive perfectly straight-line.... I'm wondering if I should even bother to get an alignment done, have had a car come out of shop worse than when I took it in...

[Trueweltall]

Yes, get it checked out.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Your car can drive straight and still have a bad alignment.

- Andrew