Need tips on swapping the clutch start switch

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Coop

Coop, a very good, informative, one of your first posts ..

I'll comment on her nice legs, before ol @Clipdat drools all over them.


humfrz

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by PandaSPUR

Well I don't get that so I'm probably fine, will check anyway though. But this reminds me... while i was down there wiping off the switch, i did also pull/twist the whole metal platform that the switch was attached to. Pulled in the opposite direction that the clutch pedal would push when bottoming out. Maybe thats what actually fixed it for me (for now)? I wonder if I just lean too hard and heavy on it sometimes and bent something out of place by a bit. All it takes is one or two mm for that switch to not engage properly.

Hmmm... interesting. That speaks to the possible alignment issue i was considering. If the plunger on the switch is being pushed in at a cockeyed angle, that would cause things to wear prematurely.

[PandaSPUR]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Hmmm... interesting. That speaks to the possible alignment issue i was considering. If the plunger on the switch is being pushed in at a cockeyed angle, that would cause things to wear prematurely.

Too many possibilities and weirdness for me to figure out exactly what the cause could be, frustrating

Doesn't help that my car stays parked at a valet operated garage all week, so I only see it on the weekends when I actually drive it. I'd be tinkering with that switch right now if I lived in a house with a garage to keep the car in lol.

[Coop]

Originally Posted by PandaSPUR

Well I don't get that so I'm probably fine, will check anyway though. But this reminds me... while i was down there wiping off the switch, i did also pull/twist the whole metal platform that the switch was attached to. Pulled in the opposite direction that the clutch pedal would push when bottoming out. Maybe thats what actually fixed it for me (for now)? I wonder if I just lean too hard and heavy on it sometimes and bent something out of place by a bit. All it takes is one or two mm for that switch to not engage properly.



I like how the skip over removing of the start switch and retightening of the replacement lol. The bottom switch (with the blue end) is just the clutch position sensor used for cruise control, that one is easy to get to.

Impressed they were able to get back there with just a normal wrench though, guess I just need to try harder.

EDIT: One of the comments mentioned disassembling then packing the switch with some dielectric grease. I've thought about that before as well, glad to see it apparently works.

If i'm not mistaken the blue one is the starter safety switch and the black one is the cruise control switch...


https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ol+switch,4320

[PandaSPUR]

Originally Posted by Coop

If i'm not mistaken the blue one is the starter safety switch and the black one is the cruise control switch...


https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ol+switch,4320

Nah the starter safety is the switch on top, it gets pushed only when the pedal is depressed. This part: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/...3281AA010.html

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by PandaSPUR

...it gets pushed only when the pedal is depressed.

so sad

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

They're so thin it's ridiculous. You're good as long as you don't get a metal-to-metal clank when you bottom out the pedal.

Originally Posted by Coop

Coincidentally, her bump stop is toast. You can hear it right away.

[Coop]

Hey so I had the same issue and i just fixed it today. My BRZ wouldn't start all the time and I thought it was the safety switch. Well it turns out that I had a big air bubble in my clutch. I bled my clutch and tons of air came out. Now it starts like new, and even driving is so much better!

[PandaSPUR]

Originally Posted by Coop

Hey so I had the same issue and i just fixed it today. My BRZ wouldn't start all the time and I thought it was the safety switch. Well it turns out that I had a big air bubble in my clutch. I bled my clutch and tons of air came out. Now it starts like new, and even driving is so much better!

How did air in the clutch line stop your car from starting though? I've never tried but I assumed the starter has enough torque to start the engine even if clutch is engaged (and youre in neutral).

[Coop]

Originally Posted by PandaSPUR

How did air in the clutch line stop your car from starting though? I've never tried but I assumed the starter has enough torque to start the engine even if clutch is engaged (and youre in neutral).

Because the brake fluid doesn't compress and air does. Pretty much when I pushed my clutch all the way in it would actually not be separating the clutch from the fly wheel all the way, just partially. And I think there is a sensor in the actual clutch that can tell if it is separated or not.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

That stupid switch was one of the first things I defeated. Jumpered it so I don't have to load up the thrust bearings whenever I start the engine.


Ha... I was all over your first thread. Unless you have a pushbutton start, just get rid of that POS switch.

With the pushbutton, the switch can't be defeated because it's the only way to get into ACC and ON ignition positions (correct me if I'm wrong).

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

With the pushbutton, the switch can't be defeated because it's the only way to get into ACC and ON ignition positions (correct me if I'm wrong).

So the clutch would have to be at rest to toggle into those modes? Hmmm...

Now I'm even happier that I still have a key.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

So the clutch would have to be at rest to toggle into those modes? Hmmm...

Now I'm even happier that I still have a key.

That’s what I think because if you depress the clutch and push, you immediately crank. In order to get to ACC and ON, you need to not depress the pedal (all which is info passed to the ECU via the switch)

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

That’s what I think because if you depress the clutch and push, you immediately crank. In order to get to ACC and ON, you need to not depress the pedal (all which is info passed to the ECU via the switch)

Wow! And then it's programmed to keep cranking until either RPM goes above threshold value, or until it times out. No in-between.

I really don't like that. I guess if I was forced to use that circuit, I'd move the clutch interlock to another position on the dash so I'd have to use both hands to crank. ...maybe.