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Old 05-14-2018, 03:56 PM   #15
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Still, that's a solid amount. Just saw your thread comparing the 13-16 and 17 as well. Probably will end up with a '17 or an '18 if the pricing makes sense. I intend to occasionally street drive it as well, but will probably aim for TT5 in 2019.
Unless you're paying cash, the 18 will probably make more sense with promo financing.

Compare base model vs PP, as you do need to factor in BTM trim.
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Old 05-14-2018, 04:03 PM   #16
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Compare base model vs PP, as you do need to factor in BTM trim.
I was leaning towards a base car anyway for this very reason. I don't think anything in the PP is worthwhile when it's going to be changed anyway (shocks/springs/wheels/tires.) Brakes are probably not worth the whole package.

My Miata isn't exactly track prepped (it's an autox STR build), and doesn't even have a roll bar, but I took it out at PittRace during a track night in America event before the '18 SCCA Match Tour and the non-brembo base brakes did just fine (with pads and fluid swap.)
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Old 05-14-2018, 04:39 PM   #17
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I was leaning towards a base car anyway for this very reason. I don't think anything in the PP is worthwhile when it's going to be changed anyway (shocks/springs/wheels/tires.) Brakes are probably not worth the whole package.

My Miata isn't exactly track prepped (it's an autox STR build), and doesn't even have a roll bar, but I took it out at PittRace during a track night in America event before the '18 SCCA Match Tour and the non-brembo base brakes did just fine (with pads and fluid swap.)
The base brakes will work "just fine" for lighter duty, but the bbk is really about cost reduction than performance gains.

The PP itself is totally worth it, but not worth it when you also have to get the limited trim, IMO.
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Old 05-14-2018, 04:58 PM   #18
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Sounds like a '13 car with a '17+ engine is an economical way to go if you feel like doing the swap.
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Old 05-14-2018, 05:04 PM   #19
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Sounds like a '13 car with a '17+ engine is an economical way to go if you feel like doing the swap.
Sure isn't, because it's nowhere near as simple as dropping an engine in.
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Old 05-14-2018, 05:12 PM   #20
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Other than the engine and accompanying ECU what's the difference?
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Old 05-14-2018, 05:24 PM   #21
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Other than the engine and accompanying ECU what's the difference?


Crank position plate, fuel rails, a host of connectors. It's not trivial.
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Old 05-14-2018, 05:28 PM   #22
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Other than the engine and accompanying ECU what's the difference?
The Harness for one.

At that point you've already exceeded the cost of an old car + swap, vs buying a new 17, and the new 17 has zero miles.
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Old 05-14-2018, 06:15 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by MarkR171 View Post
I was leaning towards a base car anyway for this very reason. I don't think anything in the PP is worthwhile when it's going to be changed anyway (shocks/springs/wheels/tires.) Brakes are probably not worth the whole package.
I was only interested in Limited trim anyway. Only question was with or without Brembos. Ease of swapping pads + looks made PP totally worth $1200 If I didn't want leather, I probably would have gotten a used FR-S...
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Old 05-14-2018, 06:32 PM   #24
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It's definitely a luck issue, go with 17+ if you are worried, from 17+ onward they shot peening the cylinder wall & the cam gears alone with some added reinforcement on the rear of the block or somthing. can someone varify?
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Old 05-14-2018, 09:42 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkR171 View Post
Still, that's a solid amount. Just saw your thread comparing the 13-16 and 17 as well. Probably will end up with a '17 or an '18 if the pricing makes sense. I intend to occasionally street drive it as well, but will probably aim for TT5 in 2019.
I have had great luck with my 2013 with around 15k track miles on it. However, if I could swap it out for a 2017, I would. Unless you can get a KILLER deal on a perfect 2013-16, buy a 2017.
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