What is this? Knocking Popping Tapping noise from the engine bay no codes

[arren123]

Originally Posted by humfrz

What date was your car built ....??


humfrz

The black label on my door jamb says 8/12

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by arren123

The black label on my door jamb says 8/12

hmmm......that's pretty young.

However, it is what it is .......as they say in the old country, or somewhere ......

Well, hopefully the dealership will discover a simple solution with an easy fix.


humfrz

[ermax]

Originally Posted by arren123

I've never had a spark plug back out either, but it was easy enough to check and hope for an easy fix.

I'm not driving the car between now and Monday. I'm getting it towed to the dealer since I still don't know the actual cause.

I just plugged in my Ecutek and used the DTC tool to verify there were no stored codes.

On the side note of doom and gloom..
There was a YouTube video I ran across where the guy had a rod/bearing issue. One of his comments "Ended up being a spun Rod 4 Bearing, apparently it wasn't out of the normal on the early first batch engines due to a front oil valley cover issue (passages too narrow or something along those lines). I got a replacement engine under warranty and it was fine ever since. The early engines have a #1 with an eagle looking logo stamped on the front cover, revised front covers have a #2 with no eagle. Sure they've done more revisions since then."

I looked at my cover and I found the eagle and I found the #1 on it

That is an interesting tidbit of info right there. Need to do some more research on this. If they had a bad design on the timing cover bad enough to starve the crank then this should be a recall. I have a fairly early 2013. When I get home I will check to see if I have a #1 on my timing cover.

[guybo]

Originally Posted by arren123

OK. Here's what I found out so far.

I thought that a spark plug may have backed itself out so I checked #1 and #3 on the passenger side and they were tight. Then I pulled the plugs out. No clues from the plugs, they look normal. I didn't bother with #2 and #4 since those a difficult to remove with all the injector/supercharger hoses in the way.

It's a Ford thing mostly. It's not uncommon for a plug to back itself out of some of the older Ford engines.

That is an interesting tidbit of info right there. Need to do some more research on this. If they had a bad design on the timing cover bad enough to starve the crank then this should be a recall. I have a fairly early 2013. When I get home I will check to see if I have a #1 on my timing cover.

It's not a safety item, so there will be no recall. The best you can hope for is a TSB. I don't remember seeing a campaign for this though- but it's been a while since I checked.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by arren123

The black label on my door jamb says 8/12

[ermax]

I have the eagle and mine was built 11/12.

[Ultramaroon]

I just listened again. I agree with you, @arren123. I think it's a spun rod bearing. I bet if you drain the oil into a clean container you'll see it's visibly contaminated with metal fragments. Dust.

[arren123]

Originally Posted by ermax

I have the eagle and mine was built 11/12.

Did you find the #1 on the cover too? I think it was to the top and right of the eagle.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by arren123

Did you find the #1 on the cover too? I think it was to the top and right of the eagle.

It was dark out and hard to see but I just checked again and as you said, there is a #1 to the top right of the eagle.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by ermax

That is an interesting tidbit of info right there. Need to do some more research on this. If they had a bad design on the timing cover bad enough to starve the crank then this should be a recall. I have a fairly early 2013. When I get home I will check to see if I have a #1 on my timing cover.

The bad cover is one of the several theories. Another big one (the one I subscribe to through the evidence posted on this forum) is that many of the early ones had excessive silicone sealant floating loose in the channels. The #4 bearing is the end of the line so it gathered there and blocked the oil flow.

[arren123]

Just got a call back from the dealer tech. The diagnosis is rod knock and he recommended a tear down and ordering a short block since they are already tearing it down. At minimum I'll need the short block.
The tear down includes head and valve inspection and everything in between.

I already authorized the tear-down and short block. I never told them that I thought it might be a rod knock so it's good to hear it matches up to what I thought it might be.

Opinions? Recommendations anyone?

[bcj]

[arren123]

Lol!

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by arren123

Just got a call back from the dealer tech. The diagnosis is rod knock and he recommended a tear down and ordering a short block since they are already tearing it down. At minimum I'll need the short block.
The tear down includes head and valve inspection and everything in between.

I already authorized the tear-down and short block. I never told them that I thought it might be a rod knock so it's good to hear it matches up to what I thought it might be.

Opinions? Recommendations anyone?

Well, that sucks ......

At least you're going to get it fixed.

Thanks for the update.

I reckon I'm going to have to recalibrate my ears for FA20 "rod knock" ......


humfrz