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Old 10-24-2017, 04:32 PM   #15
bass_114
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daily driving or occasional pulls, look into the oem forester heat exchange cooler set up works perfectly for my set up, dual catch can set up and quality fuel is a must to avoid knocking. Clutch change can be postponed unless cuz racecarbro, not as if it will let you down 100% all of the sudden 1 day.
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Old 10-24-2017, 04:36 PM   #16
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Clutch change can be postponed unless cuz racecarbro, not as if it will let you down 100% all of the sudden 1 day.
did for me.. slipping in 5th and 6th at 3700 rpm on the first test drive.
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Old 10-24-2017, 04:39 PM   #17
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-Proper Ecutek protune. Don't overlook this, as it's likely the most important part.

-Versus AOS or Radium dual catch cans.

-Oil cooler. If this car will rarely see track time and you don't need to be competitive, grab the OEM FXT DIT cooler. If you foresee some track work in this cars future, grab an air2air oil cooler like the Jackson Racing kit.

-Prepare for a clutch kit! I usually love the ACT HDSS kit, but lots of people have had issues with this clutch kit in this platform, the Exedy and South Bend's seem to do better on this platform for some reason. When you do it, grab the Versus clutch fork and pivot. Do it all while it's all apart!

-Gauges. I'm a big fan of running an oil pressure, boost pressure, AFR, and EGT on modified boosted cars. I think this selection are really helpful to let you know when things are going awry.

Hope that's helpful. Plan to do it all eventually.
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Old 10-24-2017, 08:30 PM   #18
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AEM Failsafe
Clutch - Use an oem throwout bearing + verus billet fork + verus pivot point....
PCV catch can, crank case doesn't see as much blow by, but if you have cash for both, do it.
Oil Cooler
Good tune- what pops engines and what keeps oem internals intact is determined by how good the tune is.
Oil Pressure gauge, Oil Temp gauge, Boost gauge(only if you dont use AEM failsafe)
Whatever mods Turbo kit calls for (oil pan, drift/crash bar replacement, etc)

Eventually you will want a better radiator with better flowing fans to prevent overheating but what I listed should be adequate.
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Old 10-24-2017, 11:21 PM   #19
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I run zero supporting mods. I just watch oil and coolant temps. I run a 30wt oil though. Stock clutch still holding ok. Tuned to near perfection.
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Old 10-26-2017, 09:29 AM   #20
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How long have you been FI with stick internals?
About 60000 miles without any real engine issues. It's really all in the tune.
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Old 04-21-2019, 11:31 PM   #21
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Im currently getting the Sprintex 210 intercooled supercharger instal on my 86. (Can't wait )
So far, my only supporting mod is going to be a dual catch can, I don't want to take any chances. I may look into getting an oil temp gage in the future.
A good tune can definitely go a long way, its that fine line between a con rod flying through your engine block or keeping it together. Dont cheap out on a pro tune!

Last edited by JDM_Import; 04-21-2019 at 11:34 PM. Reason: I make more spelling mistakes than a 5 year old
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Old 04-22-2019, 12:51 AM   #22
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Im currently getting the Sprintex 210 intercooled supercharger instal on my 86. (Can't wait )
So far, my only supporting mod is going to be a dual catch can, I don't want to take any chances. I may look into getting an oil temp gage in the future.
A good tune can definitely go a long way, its that fine line between a con rod flying through your engine block or keeping it together. Dont cheap out on a pro tune!
I hope you know this thread is a year and a half old, this guy either decided he's not going FI, or already blew his engine without this comment to help guide him.
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Old 04-22-2019, 12:53 AM   #23
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Im currently getting the Sprintex 210 intercooled supercharger instal on my 86. (Can't wait )
So far, my only supporting mod is going to be a dual catch can, I don't want to take any chances. I may look into getting an oil temp gage in the future.
A good tune can definitely go a long way, its that fine line between a con rod flying through your engine block or keeping it together. Dont cheap out on a pro tune!
Sprintex is a fun awesome kit for some nice DDing.
You already have full headerback? What about tires?

The kit does get hot and like to heat soak after a little hard driving.
I got mishimoto radiator and oem oil cooler. Never seen coolant hit 200yet, oil has gotten low 210s after numerous back to back extended wot pulls but drops quickly once off throttle. And after WMI temps are well managed. Intake temps at or below ambient.
Also You should look at the scangauge. Basically 4 gauges in one. Currently monitoring boost pressure, afr, oil temp, and coolant temp, sometimes i swap transmission temp for boost pressure.
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Old 04-22-2019, 04:27 AM   #24
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Catch cans?

Air Oil Separator ......to work out if you require a AOS, a quick cheap test is to fit a air compressor AOS, they are cheap, and most importantly they can be checked by eye and easily drained.

$15 on eBay for some R&D is well worth the outlay.

You can get a similar bit of kit from JEGS for $50 if you need brand name.
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Old 04-22-2019, 04:52 AM   #25
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I hope you know this thread is a year and a half old, this guy either decided he's not going FI, or already blew his engine without this comment to help guide him.
Dooh..
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Old 04-28-2019, 11:52 PM   #26
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Sprintex is a fun awesome kit for some nice DDing.
You already have full headerback? What about tires?

The kit does get hot and like to heat soak after a little hard driving.
I got mishimoto radiator and oem oil cooler. Never seen coolant hit 200yet, oil has gotten low 210s after numerous back to back extended wot pulls but drops quickly once off throttle. And after WMI temps are well managed. Intake temps at or below ambient.
Also You should look at the scangauge. Basically 4 gauges in one. Currently monitoring boost pressure, afr, oil temp, and coolant temp, sometimes i swap transmission temp for boost pressure.

Hey, I have a catless UEL header, overpipe and cat-back. I kept the factory mid pipe. I have a set of decent tires, firehawks indy 500 (they are good for launches but thats about it, thinking of upgrading when these are worn) You mention some good points, I'll be looking into upgrading slowly but surely. Are you running a catch can or AOS and do you track at all or just street driving, besides the heat managment how is the car holding up?
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Old 04-28-2019, 11:56 PM   #27
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Catch cans?

Air Oil Separator ......to work out if you require a AOS, a quick cheap test is to fit a air compressor AOS, they are cheap, and most importantly they can be checked by eye and easily drained.

$15 on eBay for some R&D is well worth the outlay.

You can get a similar bit of kit from JEGS for $50 if you need brand name.
AOS is defintely alot cheaper!!! Might end up taking this route Im still looking into it
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Old 04-29-2019, 01:41 AM   #28
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Hey, I have a catless UEL header, overpipe and cat-back. I kept the factory mid pipe. I have a set of decent tires, firehawks indy 500 (they are good for launches but thats about it, thinking of upgrading when these are worn) You mention some good points, I'll be looking into upgrading slowly but surely. Are you running a catch can or AOS and do you track at all or just street driving, besides the heat managment how is the car holding up?
I run radium dual catch cans. Although crankcase side really isn’t needed. Just DD/spirited driving. I wouldn’t track this kit without E85 and/or WMI and a oil cooler. This kit is a rolling furnace otherwise.
This kit doesn’t make the highest peak boost/HP/torque numbers. But it makes some of the best numbers off the line/below 4K so traction can be an issue. Although to be fair I have a 4.56fd swap that doesn’t help traction. Looking at a 3.909 swap when I can find a good deal on one.
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