Boost supporting mods for the street

[Nah]

About to pull the trigger on a JDL kit. But first what supporting mods for the motor will I need To safely run 8psi 10-12 max.

Besides the basics (mounts, catch can, oil cooler)

Anything I should be aware of?

[kmbkk]

A proper tune and boost gauge. Maybe consider an upgraded radiator, since you're in FL.

[weederr33]

Forged internals

[Fred E]

For strictly street driving, engine mounts aren't completely necessary, but are also cheap relative to the benefit they provide. A catch can is a great idea, as well as a larger capacity clutch. You might be able to get away with the stock clutch for a while as long as you don't do any hard launches, but it will eventually give out. Any clutch that has a torque capacity of at least 250-275 ft-lbs should be fine for the street.

An upgraded radiator isn't strictly necessary unless you're tracking, and technically an oil cooler isn't either. I was using an oil-to-air oil cooler for a while, but my oil never got up to operating temperature while driving on the street, which is obviously not ideal (good read: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114293). If anything, an oil-to-water (i.e. OEM style coolant-based) oil cooler would be sufficient. If you are going to be taking the car to the track, definitely get both an upgraded radiator and an oil-to-air oil cooler.

You should also think about upgrading injectors only if you're going to be using ethanol. The OEM pump does not actually need to be upgraded either way, regardless of what many people will likely say (source: I was pushing almost 400whp on ethanol with the OEM fuel pump for a long time.)

[Xxyion]

Originally Posted by Nah

About to pull the trigger on a JDL kit. But first what supporting mods for the motor will I need To safely run 8psi 10-12 max.

Besides the basics (mounts, catch can, oil cooler)

Anything I should be aware of?

Is this the new JDL kit priced at 2999$?

[TRACE_on]

For street use with pump gas, you don't HAVE to upgrade anything else IMO. Even the stuff you listed isn't necessary. Clutch will likely start slipping sooner or later so a stronger unit might be needed.

[Super Dave]

i had to upgrade my injectors but my kit was making 13psi.... as long as you stay around 11 it should be fine

[Lonewolf]

A wideband gauge was always cheap insurance with a boosted car when I grew up...I don't think things have changed that much

[D_Thissen]

Originally Posted by Lonewolf

A wideband gauge was always cheap insurance with a boosted car when I grew up...I don't think things have changed that much

Does AEM still make the failsafe one?

edit: so they do http://www.aemelectronics.com/files/..._Failsafe.html

[GsxrMe]

Everything on my tag was required to get the car to run right. My factory mounts lasted 5k miles before I felt the motor wanting to jump out when i was in traffic coming from a stop to give it alittle gas.

You can take all the shortcuts you want but id do it right the first time. Tune is a 100% must imo

[ShadowReaper]

Originally Posted by Fred E

For strictly street driving, engine mounts aren't completely necessary, but are also cheap relative to the benefit they provide. A catch can is a great idea, as well as a larger capacity clutch. You might be able to get away with the stock clutch for a while as long as you don't do any hard launches, but it will eventually give out. Any clutch that has a torque capacity of at least 250-275 ft-lbs should be fine for the street.

An upgraded radiator isn't strictly necessary unless you're tracking, and technically an oil cooler isn't either. I was using an oil-to-air oil cooler for a while, but my oil never got up to operating temperature while driving on the street, which is obviously not ideal (good read: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114293). If anything, an oil-to-water (i.e. OEM style coolant-based) oil cooler would be sufficient. If you are going to be taking the car to the track, definitely get both an upgraded radiator and an oil-to-air oil cooler.

You should also think about upgrading injectors only if you're going to be using ethanol. The OEM pump does not actually need to be upgraded either way, regardless of what many people will likely say (source: I was pushing almost 400whp on ethanol with the OEM fuel pump for a long time.)

Thanks for sharing your experience. I am debating getting injectors fuel pump for this kit but I do notice most people on this forum are tracking, I'm just street driving/ DD... and to be fair I have seen MORE successful builds on forums with stock internals and turbo than UNSUCCESSFUL builds with stock internals

Any good recommendations on clutch and catch can?

[sachu]

catch cans
Motor mounts (just cause you might as well)
oil pressure gauge
oil cooler (especially if doing spirited driving)
upgraded Clutch.. I went with the ACT SB8-XTSS (Versus forged clutch fork and pivot as well, since you're already in there)
tires/wheels
edit: Most important of all, a proper tune. Just say no to "tooners"

[Fred E]

Originally Posted by ShadowReaper

Thanks for sharing your experience. I am debating getting injectors fuel pump for this kit but I do notice most people on this forum are tracking, I'm just street driving/ DD... and to be fair I have seen MORE successful builds on forums with stock internals and turbo than UNSUCCESSFUL builds with stock internals

Any good recommendations on clutch and catch can?

I had a rather terrible experience with an ACT clutch from day 1 and have had an amazing experience with a South Bend clutch and the stock flywheel. A stage 1 daily clutch (295 ft-lbs, part # FJK1005-HD) or a stage 2 daily (315 ft-lbs, part # FJK1005-HD-O) depending on your torque level. I'm currently using the stage 3 daily clutch rated for 400 ft-lbs and it feels almost as easy as stock and SO much better than the ACT XT I was using before. There's also hardly any flywheel chatter on deceleration, unlike the ACT street-lite flywheel that was deafening loud on deceleration and even chattered at idle with the A/C on. Imagine sitting at a traffic light with the A/C on next to someone with their window down. I did also have a separate issue with the ACT clutch failing and letting go in the middle of a redline pull at only ~200 ft-lbs of torque (4000 rpm or so maybe?). The only reason I went with another of the same was because it was covered by ACT's warranty.

The Radium catch can kit is the cleanest and best looking kit in my opinion and if you're boosted or going to be, you should probably get the dual kit. After seeing the junk that my catch cans have caught, I highly recommend against getting one that drains what it catches back into your block.

Also as mentioned directly above, a proper custom tune should be step 1.

[ShadowReaper]

Originally Posted by Fred E

I had a rather terrible experience with an ACT clutch from day 1 and have had an amazing experience with a South Bend clutch and the stock flywheel. A stage 1 daily clutch (295 ft-lbs, part # FJK1005-HD) or a stage 2 daily (315 ft-lbs, part # FJK1005-HD-O) depending on your torque level. I'm currently using the stage 3 daily clutch rated for 400 ft-lbs and it feels almost as easy as stock and SO much better than the ACT XT I was using before. There's also hardly any flywheel chatter on deceleration, unlike the ACT street-lite flywheel that was deafening loud on deceleration and even chattered at idle with the A/C on. Imagine sitting at a traffic light with the A/C on next to someone with their window down. I did also have a separate issue with the ACT clutch failing and letting go in the middle of a redline pull at only ~200 ft-lbs of torque (4000 rpm or so maybe?). The only reason I went with another of the same was because it was covered by ACT's warranty.

The Radium catch can kit is the cleanest and best looking kit in my opinion and if you're boosted or going to be, you should probably get the dual kit. After seeing the junk that my catch cans have caught, I highly recommend against getting one that drains what it catches back into your block.

Also as mentioned directly above, a proper custom tune should be step 1.

How long have you been FI with stick internals?