Battery Brace touched Positive Battery terminal, car won't start!!

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Overdrive

And what, of this assembly, would need replacing if it got harmed by the short? The rectifier? Seems like a bit much of an undertaking in any case, along with probably having to buy a few bearings, unless the OP feels confident in getting in there and doing the work. Maybe the dealer can rebuild it, but then it'll become a matter of which costs less -- a replacement part, or the labor and parts to do a rebuild.

Oh, I dunno. Depends on experience and interests. All those parts are replaceable and much less expensive than a new alternator. Without diagnostic tools I would replace the rectifier block, and the brush assembly only if it has an integrated regulator. The rest of the alternator is brand new.

edit: without diagnostic tools I would also first have it tested.

[Overdrive]

Just for clarity, I meant replacement alternator when I said "replacement part" vs. whatever parts and labor it would take for a capable tech to rebuild the alternator. If the parts are truly inexpensive, I'd be willing to dig in there and rebuild it, but I'd still say that's more involved than a battery swap, changing out some fuses, or removing and replacing the alternator assembly. Depending on what the OP is willing to DIY, it becomes a question of cost and the convenience of getting fixed and back on the road quickly.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Overdrive

Just for clarity, I meant replacement alternator when I said "replacement part" vs. whatever parts and labor it would take for a capable tech to rebuild the alternator. If the parts are truly inexpensive, I'd be willing to dig in there and rebuild it, but I'd still say that's more involved than a battery swap, changing out some fuses, or removing and replacing the alternator assembly. Depending on what the OP is willing to DIY, it becomes a question of cost and the convenience of getting fixed and back on the road quickly.

Of course. That's what I meant by the "interest" part.

There is some soldering involved in removing the brushes from the old regulator to the new, but, as far as soldering goes, it's at the bottom of the difficulty scale.

It's a great opportunity to learn to solder as well as to troubleshoot those rectifier diodes. The stator clamps right to the block so it's easy to separate the two. Just need a cheap $10 analog multimeter.

Hell, I'm here for free.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Of course. That's what I meant by the "interest" part.

There is some soldering involved in removing the brushes from the old regulator to the new, but, as far as soldering goes, it's at the bottom of the difficulty scale.

It's a great opportunity to learn to solder as well as to troubleshoot those rectifier diodes. The stator clamps right to the block so it's easy to separate the two. Just need a cheap $10 analog multimeter.

Hell, I'm here for free.

OR ....... buy a used alternator for $99 ...... and not bother the old man .......


humfrz

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by humfrz

OR ....... buy a used alternator for $99 ...... and not bother the old man .......

Oh, FFS. Again, depending on "interest."

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Oh, FFS. Again, depending on "interest."

I had to look up "FFS" ..........


https://media.tenor.com/images/b6601...0d73/tenor.gif


humfrz

[guybo]

or you could take this opportunity to install a BIG subwoofer and upgrade to a 300 amp high output alternator.

[Opie]

Replace battery and have the EPS reset and recalibrated.