Ohlins Road & Track for FRS/BRZ suspension install/review thread

[Sleepypistonracing]

Originally Posted by thetyrant

Just to add to this thread as well, im in the market for new suspension to replace Tein Streetflex that was on car when I bought it, having had Ohlins R&T on 3 previous cars ive been researching and speaking to owners with them on these cars to see what people think, like most I was most concerned about the spring rate drop on MP20 but after speaking to my contact at Ohlins im confident for UK roads it will work well, probably too soft for track as you would expect but will be interesting to find out as firmest is not always fastest way


I was lucky to find another GT86 locally who has the new MP20 Ohlins kit fitted and he was kind enough to let me have a good drive of car earlier this week to get a feel for it, I was impressed that despite the soft spring rates it still felt very good and no doubt the higher spring preload and quality dampers play a big part in it all, I didnt push car crazy hard as it wasn't mine (despite owner asking me to!) but you could feel rear was a tad on softer side and turn in under power wasn't the best (lack of neg camber playing a part as below), however was very planted and soaked up the bumps well enough, I think either an uprated ARB or touch firmer on rear springs and it will be nice balance.


One thing we both felt was the lack of Negative camber from using stock top mount dulled the turn in, my car is currently back onto bone stock suspension bar Whiteline camber bolts giving around -1.5deg and felt much nicer for it, finding a solution for the camber on Ohlins will be my first job and im told camber bolts don't fit easily but not sure on details yet, there are a few top mount options much cheaper than Ohlins ones which add nearly another 50% onto price of basic kit!


Anyhows after the testdrive Im now in process of ordering my Ohlins MP20 kit and looking forwarding to fitting and playing around with it


Certainly for track users you need to uprate the springs to at least the 60N from older kits and im assured the damper valving hasn't been changed so no problems with those or even 70n springs, my car will is 80% road, 10% track and 10% sprint events so will be interesting to see what I end up with after playing with springs etc.


Ian

I'm using velox top mounts. Fairly decently priced and works good but they are noisy at low speeds when you turn a lot, like parking or similar. They are making a popping noise, like the spring is getting stuck and then releases. Like "POING!"

[thetyrant]

Originally Posted by churchx

thetyrant: have you tested just on "UK roads" or also been on track? And what tires car had?
In addition to whiteline bolts on top hole one can use SPC ones at lower hole for extra camber. LCA for rear neg. camber will be needed though (one can change bushings to eccentric ones, but parts+labour may cost almost what cheapest rear aftermarket LCAs cost and adjusting is more hassle with just bushings).

So far ive had about 20 miles on UK roads in another owners car fitted with MP20 kit as above, tyres were Michelin PS4. so far so good but will report more when I have kit on my car for road and track

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by Sleepypistonracing

I'm using velox top mounts. Fairly decently priced and works good but they are noisy at low speeds when you turn a lot, like parking or similar. They are making a popping noise, like the spring is getting stuck and then releases. Like "POING!"

You need Torrington bearings. I don't think the Velox kit has those.

[thetyrant]

Has anyone fitted camber bolts with the Ohlins kit ? my MP20 kit is on its way and looking at camber options now, I like the OE top hats for the minimal NVH but of course I don't like lack of camber they give, camber bolts are an easy option and im using on my stopgap setup which is stock dampers but I was told they are not a direct fit in the Ohlins damper, not sure why until I get a look myself but thought someone on here might know

[Sleepypistonracing]

Originally Posted by thetyrant

Has anyone fitted camber bolts with the Ohlins kit ? my MP20 kit is on its way and looking at camber options now, I like the OE top hats for the minimal NVH but of course I don't like lack of camber they give, camber bolts are an easy option and im using on my stopgap setup which is stock dampers but I was told they are not a direct fit in the Ohlins damper, not sure why until I get a look myself but thought someone on here might know

I am using bolts. They are a direct fit. However, make sure that the bottom of the coil doesn't hit the end links. You might have to put the bolt in the upper hole instead of the lower one. Doesn't affect anything but gives more room to the end link.

[thetyrant]

Originally Posted by Sleepypistonracing

I am using bolts. They are a direct fit. However, make sure that the bottom of the coil doesn't hit the end links. You might have to put the bolt in the upper hole instead of the lower one. Doesn't affect anything but gives more room to the end link.

Great thanks for the info, which bolts do you have fitted out of interest ?

[Sleepypistonracing]

Originally Posted by thetyrant

Great thanks for the info, which bolts do you have fitted out of interest ?

Eibach I believe!

[nikitopo]

Is the camber within the factory limits when you change the bolts? If it is not, then I don't think TÜV will approve them in my car.

[Sleepypistonracing]

Originally Posted by nikitopo

Is the camber within the factory limits when you change the bolts? If it is not, then I don't think TÜV will approve them in my car.

You can adjust them from like +-1.25degrees so you should be able to run them with normal specs, yes.

[Tor]

Originally Posted by nikitopo

Is the camber within the factory limits when you change the bolts? If it is not, then I don't think TÜV will approve them in my car.

TÜV approved my car with -2.5 camber (top mounts). They don't care at all, they only care that the parts fitted have TÜV approval and are fitted according to the instructions. I.e. it doesn't have to be to factory specs.

[Sleepypistonracing]

The instruction does say to mount them in the lower hole as I've done on the picture above. As you can see the end link is very close and have at some points touched the end of the coil. This could be avoided by placing the bolts in the upper hole instead I suppose.

However, then you're not following the instruction! But I mean, will they ever notice that you changed a specific bolt?:P

[thetyrant]

Originally Posted by Sleepypistonracing

The instruction does say to mount them in the lower hole as I've done on the picture above. As you can see the end link is very close and have at some points touched the end of the coil. This could be avoided by placing the bolts in the upper hole instead I suppose.

However, then you're not following the instruction! But I mean, will they ever notice that you changed a specific bolt?:P

Thanks for that, not sure why the local guy to me had trouble looks no issue, my Whiteline bolts say to mount in top hole but can also be fitted in lower hole iirc


Ian

[nikitopo]

Originally Posted by thetyrant

Thanks for that, not sure why the local guy to me had trouble looks no issue, my Whiteline bolts say to mount in top hole but can also be fitted in lower hole iirc


Ian

It is better to install aftermarket camber bolts in the lower hole and not the upper. Camber bolts, by design, must be thinner than normal bolts. This reduces the strength of the joint. If you install in the upper hole, you might have slippage or outright failure (break). This will almost certainly result in loss of control of the vehicle.

[nikitopo]

This is the latest answer from Öhlins USA about the low spring rates.


http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=3300


Regarding some old questions regarding tires, the answer is to use stock size tires with a stickiest rubber compound. A good example is the Michelin PSS or the newer PS4.


Keep in mind that such tires come stock in cars like BMW M3. If someone sicks a better performance, then he should better build a dedicated track car and choose a suspension that is far from the range of a Road & Track product.