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Old 05-01-2017, 01:19 AM   #715
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Congrats on keeping it in one piece for 1.5 years without a dry sump. Impressive!
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Old 05-01-2017, 06:36 PM   #716
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Congrats on keeping it in one piece for 1.5 years without a dry sump. Impressive!
Thanks! Our motor build gets the oil pressure up but I'm sure the Accumulator kit has helped with cornering Gs as we've seen over 2G with our Time Attack FRS. It's cheap insurance for sure!!!
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Old 05-04-2017, 08:25 AM   #717
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You have to split the cases so as long as a full build which is about 27 hours.
Firstly, that's an awesome build, great to see people keeping the FA20 rather than jumping ship, and sorry to hear it finally let go.

I was just wondering about the rods you used. I was aiming to keep the stock pistons as a way of saving money if I decide to build my engine, but was told I'd struggle to get aftermarket rods that would fit.

Did you have to machine the rods to get them to fit the pistons?

Sorry if the answer to this is somewhere in the last 50 pages!
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Old 05-07-2017, 02:49 PM   #718
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Firstly, that's an awesome build, great to see people keeping the FA20 rather than jumping ship, and sorry to hear it finally let go.

I was just wondering about the rods you used. I was aiming to keep the stock pistons as a way of saving money if I decide to build my engine, but was told I'd struggle to get aftermarket rods that would fit.

Did you have to machine the rods to get them to fit the pistons?

Sorry if the answer to this is somewhere in the last 50 pages!
Yes you have to clearance the rods to run those pistons but also the tops need to be machined some and the DI pocket isn't correct for the FA20 direct injection.

While I made it work, it was mostly for us to test the DIT parts without buying a WRX. I also have infinite control over the DI with the Hydra EMS and I'm not sure you could get optimal results from the OEM ecu in that regard.

Forged rods and pistons (for boosted applications) are the only way to go if you have opened up the motor. Don't get me wrong those pistons are strong and honestly would have never failed had I not run that motor super lean.
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Old 09-01-2017, 09:25 PM   #719
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Ok Element you win take my money
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Old 09-05-2017, 04:18 PM   #720
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Ok Element you win take my money
Happy to help you to the next level
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Old 02-07-2018, 12:31 AM   #721
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What a good thread this is. So much information, thank you so much!
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Old 02-28-2018, 10:23 PM   #722
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Has anyone seen the most recent Engine Masters episode regarding oiling (How Oil Kills Power)? Apparently they resolved high rpm oil pressure loss (and corresponding power loss) by simply reducing the overall volume of oil in the system. Of course it's more complicated than that, but I thought I'd throw this in to get this discussion going again.

I realize that most of us have chalked up high rpm oil pressure loss to cavitation on the part of the oil pump. Just want to confirm that turbulence due to excess windage at high rpm has been ruled out. Pls no flames. Honest question. Thx!

Here's a link to the video. It's a pay site so it may do you no good until they post the vid on YouTube.

https://www.motortrendondemand.com/d...r-/0_iqs4grke/

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Last edited by Williampreza; 03-01-2018 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 03-01-2018, 03:55 AM   #723
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Here's a link to the video. It's a pay site so it may do you no good until they post the vid on YouTube.

https://www.motortrendondemand.com/d...r-/0_iqs4grke/
T-minus 1 month until I can watch this video...
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Old 03-22-2018, 10:19 PM   #724
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Thanks for making this thread.
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Old 05-08-2018, 12:00 PM   #725
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No way. I have no idea when the change was made, I just noticed the difference on a rebuild of my 2012 engine. I believe there were issues with the cam timing? This may be something to do with it??
I have a 2012 and a 2014, this is how I found the difference. The earlier engines have a different part no for left and right rocker posts, later they're the same.





Heres a pic of the left and right next to each other..
Are you sure this changed on the 2014? I ask because I am doing a rebuild right now on my early MY2013 and noticed bank1 has the small holes under the rockers and bank2 has the big holes. Did they go to small holes on both banks on the 2014?
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Old 05-08-2018, 12:26 PM   #726
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Are you sure this changed on the 2014? I ask because I am doing a rebuild right now on my early MY2013 and noticed bank1 has the small holes under the rockers and bank2 has the big holes. Did they go to small holes on both banks on the 2014?
I am rebuild MY 2013 and when i bought from Subaru... The size is different

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Old 05-13-2018, 11:20 PM   #727
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Anyone know if it's ok to use the newer smaller hole rocker posts on the older 2012~13 heads?
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Old 05-14-2018, 01:50 AM   #728
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Anyone know if it's ok to use the newer smaller hole rocker posts on the older 2012~13 heads?

Their is whole set of updated parts, valves rocker etc you must use all new parts as slightly different sizes do not mix and match old and upgrade parts
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