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| Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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#15 |
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#16 |
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NLSP: .. if taste of it on track. Unless one drives like hoon on public roads, i doubt one will often seen high side-Gs / understeering issues when pushed to limits while simply daily driving. Except maybe in very low-grip situations like on ice/snow, but good winter tires will help much more there, with extra camber almost not matter.
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#17 |
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I think more people have problems with cheap camber plates than cheap dampers and springs...
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#18 | |
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Not an F1 argument, just an illustration that more camber isn't necessarily better. Wider tires need less camber. Basically, the stiffer your suspension the more static camber you can generally benefit from. Street suspension moves around a lot compared to competition suspension so camber needs to be carefully considered. The object of static camber settings is to optimize contact patch pressure (and thus tread temperature) for the driving you intend to do. Camber is very track specific. For road use less camber will be better than for track use. Wide tires need less camber. Stiff suspension can tolerate more static camber because dynamic camber doesn't vary as much. For road use rear camber of about 1.5 degrees and front camber of about zero is probably ideal. |
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#19 |
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I don't get how making car understeer-ish is ideal. Way more understeery then even stock. But to each his own i guess, it's your car.
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#20 | |
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#21 | |
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Duhhh
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#22 |
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If you're unhappy with the understeer or are wearing out or blueing the outer edges of your front tires, then you want more negative camber up front.
If not, then no need. Typically unless you're doing track/autox, it's not necessary.
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#23 | ||
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Macpherson strut is probably the most common front suspension now, yet I'd bet 99.9% of cars come with near zero camber and lots and lots of understeer. Quote:
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#24 |
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strat61caster: it already IS understeering with even zero camber at all corners of stock alignment (indeed, like most new cars, for safety). Question was - why even more understeer then that is safer? So that it becomes unsafe but other way around then too tail-happy and "you see tree that kills you" (c) R.Hammond ?
Untrained ones shouldn't switch off electronic SC instead of dealing in weird alignment, "because F1". |
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#25 | |
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For a graphic example check out old photos of sedan/GT racing from the 70's when they were all rwd. Front roll stiffness was so high the cars routinely lifted the inside front wheel in hard corners, just as fwd racers lift a rear wheel and for the same reason. Chassis set up requires that you consider how much work each contact patch will be asked to do and tune the chassis to get the most total grip available. You will note that F1 cars understeer heavily until they put their massive power down. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Gforce For This Useful Post: | strat61caster (05-03-2017) |
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#26 | |
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The main benefit of lowering springs is not the tiny difference in CG height but the reduction in suspension travel you get. You do not want lowering springs for street driving. With proper tires these little cars will pull close to 1g on stock springs and roll bars. If you are routinely pulling 1g on the street you will eventually be arrested and your car impounded, assuming you are an excellent driver. Otherwise a tow truck is in your future. |
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#27 |
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Gforce: your power argument/reasoning to dial in more understeer is about as valid as ill-advise to go for staggered tire setup for these cars if fitted with forced induction. Though i'm somewhat suspecting that you are trolling.
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#28 | |
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