Another V8 Swap

[DustinS]

Correct^^

The engine harness that came with my engine has the connections for the speed sensor and reverse lockout. So It will function normal.

The unfortunate part is that I left the Neutral position and Reverse light switch wires from the FRS hanging down so I could connect them to the transmission (wasn't sure about NPS, so I figured I would just wrap it up if not used). The GM Harness I have has the connections in the cabin. So I Either: 1 - Need to cut the wires off inside the car and connect them, and then cut the wires that are outside the harness in the engine bay, or 2 - Completely unwrap my harness - undoing a lot of work/time I spent wrapping it all - and then move the wires inside the cabin. At this point, I am leaning towards just cutting the wires...

[ILLSMOQ]

Originally Posted by DustinS

where did you get that wire loom?

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by ILLSMOQ

where did you get that wire loom?

Came with the Engine. This is the Custom Harness Texas Speed includes with the engine.

[wrxdriver2002]

Your harness looks like a Speartech harness. Looks very similar to mine.

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by wrxdriver2002

Your harness looks like a Speartech harness. Looks very similar to mine.

I believe that is who does their harnesses.

Edit: Fuel Pump Controller wiring diagram for reference. Easier than searching for it again in the wiring diagram.

[DustinS]

Getting to the wiring and getting kind of sketched out. Want to make sure it's done correctly haha. One thing I find weird. Switched ignition wire is heavier than "Battery" Wire. Oh well. Just need to figure out where I need/want to tap into the switched source from

[gtpvette]

Originally Posted by DustinS

Getting to the wiring and getting kind of sketched out. Want to make sure it's done correctly haha. One thing I find weird. Switched ignition wire is heavier than "Battery" Wire. Oh well. Just need to figure out where I need/want to tap into the switched source from

Would like to see where you plug this in. As a sidebar, are there connections for the clutch and brake pedal?? If so do they use new switches??

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by gtpvette

Would like to see where you plug this in. As a sidebar, are there connections for the clutch and brake pedal?? If so do they use new switches??

Connector A33 - Pin 27 on the ECM on the passenger side of the car under the dash. That is the IGSW connection on the factory ECU itself. So should be good for switched ignition on the GM ECU. Shout out the @MRS-Colin for helping with that.

No need for connections to Clutch or Brake in this situation sorry. You should be able to tap into the factory switches though. Just depends on what kind of switch they are looking for - Normally Open or Normally Closed.

Working on setting up cooling fans. I really wanted to use OEM Relays to make the swap a bit cleaner. Seems as though The Factory uses three Relays to run two fans?

Black - Red is FAN NO. 1 trigger wire from ECM. Red - Yellow is FAN NO. 2 trigger wire...



Wondering If I can cut the relays out of the factory harness without any issues. Also looking into just adding relays into the factory fuse box.

Got the RyWire Master Cylinder Adapter in the mail. The bolt holes are just ever so slightly different. I drilled the adapter holes out to 1/2" (The same size as the recessed area) and it allowed it to fit at a slight angle. I will working on getting it fit more level later. For now it will work. I did notice the top mount for the tilton master will need to be a stud.









It is super close to hitting the valve cover. We will see if the mounts allow enough movement for this to be an issue.

[DustinS]

45 Coupler came in, as well as my swivel housing. Found the LS3 thermostat I got with my water pump doesn't fit in the Mr. Gasket Housing. So I have to run to the local auto parts store to grab one.

Need to grab a temporary filter, studs for clutch master adapter, trans fluid, and coolant. Wondering if I can run blue coolant. I actually have a decent amount of Subaru blue on hand from doing the radiator and dealing with it evaporating when I first got the car. Would rather have that then orange anyway (what a stupid thing to care about haha)

*I cut the coupler down as it hit the hood pretty bad, I'll get better pictures once I get the front of the car together for better reference*



Almost didn't fit, the bolt holes distance was a tad smaller than it needed to be. Worked it self out once I got it bolted down the first time.



My mess of an engine bay currently. Want to paint the valve covers, water pump/thermostat housing, throttle body, and intake pipe texture black.

[toast]

Not messy, that is sexy as hell. Just have to see the potential

[builtness]

Nice!! I recently had a 93 RX7 with LS1/T56 combo, felt good but being at higher elevation is what killed it 5k ft plus.. I'm fixing to purchase an FRS and would love to LS swap it, but I'm going to lean toward a turbo kit or 2jz this time. Anyone ever had issues with elevation being N/A?

[wooly35]

Lots of progress. I like it! I'm really digging the intake location... guess ill be looking into some hood pins.

[DustinS]

Got more done tonight. Plan was to do the relays and wiring, but I got distracted with fuel system stuff. Rest of the fuel line should be here tomorrow. Hopefully should be enough for the full feed and return.

Was fitting the fuel rails and ran into an issue (seems to be a common thing with my build)





Found the intake cover was interfering with the allen head bolts mounting the rails to the mounting tab.



I ground down the lip so the allen head bolts could push the plastic down and allow the rail to sit correctly.



Got it all installed and got the cross over line done. On this platform, I think it best to use a 45 on the driver side, and 90 passenger. Keep it as close to the engine as possible. There isn't any room above the intake cover as the hood is RIGHT there. Better picture when it isn't super dark out.







Here is the decision making time. I am trying to incorporate the Flex-Fuel Sensor in the loop. Which is quite difficult with how large it is, and how long the fittings are. I think I can come off the back of the passenger fuel rail, along the firewall -> Behind Brake Booster -> Flex Fuel Sensor -> Fuel Pressure Regulator -> Return to tank:



90 into FFS



90 out of FFS into regulator



Out of regulator to tank





I want to eventually change this up, I hate how this looks. Don't see anywhere else for it to go at this point.

I also got the clutch line run. It's 3' long and that is too long. Have to push it over the transmission.

[Sportsguy83]

LOVE THE PROGRESS!!