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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.

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Old 02-11-2017, 11:50 PM   #1
Matey
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Internal/s capacity?

I'm starting the actual process of dwindling down the FI kit that I will be finally buying later this year and I can't seem to find anything from searching so I'm hoping someone sees this and can lead me in the right direction. What is the limit of the stock motor with FI? I know I'll need pump/injectors (aiming for about 320-330 rwhp) but I'm more worried about rods, etc. Any notable power ranges that the engine becomes unstable or WILL break at 300+? Trying to get that out of the way by going ahead and buying if it's a possible issue.

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Old 02-12-2017, 12:05 AM   #2
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I think people try to stay under 300whp for a "reliable" setup. I know some have gone well into the 350+ zone with no issues on e85. But thats just playing borrowed time at those levels if it isnt a dyno queen.
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Old 02-12-2017, 01:31 AM   #3
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I think people try to stay under 300whp for a "reliable" setup. I know some have gone well into the 350+ zone with no issues on e85. But thats just playing borrowed time at those levels if it isnt a dyno queen.
I agree. People are pushing higher like to 400 stock but I think if you want to be able to drive it and enjoy it a without worrying if you will blow it 300 is a nice number.
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Old 02-12-2017, 04:56 PM   #4
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Thanks guys. Guess it's time to find out if I really want to spend the extra couple grand just to push my car to 330. at that point i'd probably shoot for 350
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Old 02-13-2017, 12:42 AM   #5
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I'd also consider the Tq curve you're shooting for. A smooth, linear curve from a centrifugal Supercharger will be less stressful to internals than a low end Tq monster like a roots/twinscrew blower. I used Superchargers as an example but turbos have different curves as well depending on the turbo size and kit designs. Horsepower isn't the top culprit for breaking things, torque is.
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Old 02-13-2017, 08:19 AM   #6
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Its all about your tune. My tuner didnt aim for instant torque so the car feels entirely stock at low rpm and low throttle under 3k. Tomuch low end torque does bend rods.
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Old 02-13-2017, 04:12 PM   #7
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Excuse my lack of knowledge but...Does the low end torque make a difference when driving spiritedly, or is it strictly when below 3k or something? Let's say you're at 5k rpm, off throttle into a corner, then back onto throttle 100%. If the centrifugal and roots make the same torque at 5k rpm, will the engine take it the same?
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Old 02-13-2017, 06:35 PM   #8
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Excuse my lack of knowledge but...Does the low end torque make a difference when driving spiritedly, or is it strictly when below 3k or something? Let's say you're at 5k rpm, off throttle into a corner, then back onto throttle 100%. If the centrifugal and roots make the same torque at 5k rpm, will the engine take it the same?
TQ is TQ no matter how it's made. 200ft/lb at 5000k rpm is just that no matter if it's supercharged, turbo, nitrous...

The thing to consider is driveline shock. A smooth, linear flow of Tq is better than no throttle to 100% all of a sudden.

All that being said, some people have catastrophic engine failure with the cruise control set just putting down a side street. There's been people have their engine go out bone stock. I wouldn't over think it. Bottom line, if you're worried about engine failure and don't have the means to replace your engine if you blow it, you probably shouldn't be bolting on 50% more power. I say, go for it👍🏻
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Old 02-13-2017, 07:58 PM   #9
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200 to around 450+ HP. Give or take a few hundred.
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