Track Brake Pad Discussion Thread

[stevesnj]

Originally Posted by slava

I am looking to upgrade pads on my BRZ for the first time. I did two track days on the oem ones that had about 16000 miles on them and they feel like crap now. I'm looking for something well balanced for street/track. I've read a few pages on here and it sounds like people are pretty happy with the PMU HC+800's, Ferodo DS2500's, and Carbotech XP10's. Out of those three it seems like the Ferodo's may be a good choice for street/track. Tbh I didn't really have a problem with the stock pads other than them not lasting very long. The setup on the car is mild, coilovers, headers, 245/40/17 Direzza ZII's, etc. Mainly looking to upgrade fronts but open to changing rears too. What do you guys think?

I was in the same dilemma and decided on WinMax W2's and bled the system with better brake fluid. The brakes are amazing on and off the track. You will get more dust on the wheels and squeak when they are cold. Other then that you won't be disappointed.

[Pat]

Using one pad compound, regardless of what it is, for both street and track is a compromise. There are many characteristics of a street pad that don't work well on the track and vice versa. Anyone that regularly spends time on a track will tell you this.
The DS2500 is one of my favorite pads. It's fantastic. But it is not nearly as good on a track as a pad designed specifically to work in that environment.
I'm selling because I recently acquired an AP Sprint kit. I have no need for pads that fit OEM calipers. I don't know if this is appealing to you, but you're welcome to demo them sometime before buying. No cost to you. I'll do the labor if you're not comfortable with it. It takes 20 minutes. No big deal.

[slava]

Originally Posted by Pat

Using one pad compound, regardless of what it is, for both street and track is a compromise. There are many characteristics of a street pad that don't work well on the track and vice versa. Anyone that regularly spends time on a track will tell you this.
The DS2500 is one of my favorite pads. It's fantastic. But it is not nearly as good on a track as a pad designed specifically to work in that environment.
I'm selling because I recently acquired an AP Sprint kit. I have no need for pads that fit OEM calipers. I don't know if this is appealing to you, but you're welcome to demo them sometime before buying. No cost to you. I'll do the labor if you're not comfortable with it. It takes 20 minutes. No big deal.

Thanks but I went ahead and ordered the ds2500's. If they're good street pads and a little better than oem pads on the track then ill be happy. I appreciate the offer though.

[EAGLE5]

DTC-60s are real track pads. Bite like dogs.

[Pat]

Originally Posted by slava

Thanks but I went ahead and ordered the ds2500's. If they're good street pads and a little better than oem pads on the track than ill be happy. I appreciate the offer though.

Based on your priorities I think you'll be happy with them.

[Calvin27]

Anyone have opinions of ds2500s vs pmu hc 800? My PMUs are about half way through and they have been good but I guess always looking for better. The temp range is fine, but I'm keen to get rid of the squealing on the street.

My 2c

[B]Brake Pad Manufacturer (F/R): Project Mu
Caliper (F/R): HC800
[B]Rotor Size (F/R - IE OEM or specify): OEM
[B]Compound (F/R): No idea. HC800 whatever is in that :P
[B]Tires: Plastic tyres, Toyo Proxes t1 sport

[B]Feedback: Good no issues on 15 minute time attacks.

Scores:
Dusting (1=high-10=low): 8 (but I have euro spec brakes on my other car so a little biased here)
Cold bite (1=low-10=high): 6
Hot bite (1=low-10=high): 8
Modulation (1=low-10=high): 8
Noise (1=extremely loud-10=quiet): 3
Pad Lifespan (1=short-10=long): 7
Does the brake dust with this combination damage the wheels/paint if not cleaned immediately? Whatt?? I'll go check now!
Brake ducts: N

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by Calvin27

Anyone have opinions of ds2500s vs pmu hc 800? My PMUs are about half way through and they have been good but I guess always looking for better. The temp range is fine, but I'm keen to get rid of the squealing on the street.

My 2c

[B]Brake Pad Manufacturer (F/R): Project Mu
Caliper (F/R): HC800
[B]Rotor Size (F/R - IE OEM or specify): OEM
[B]Compound (F/R): No idea. HC800 whatever is in that :P
[B]Tires: Plastic tyres, Toyo Proxes t1 sport

[B]Feedback: Good no issues on 15 minute time attacks.

Scores:
Dusting (1=high-10=low): 8 (but I have euro spec brakes on my other car so a little biased here)
Cold bite (1=low-10=high): 6
Hot bite (1=low-10=high): 8
Modulation (1=low-10=high): 8
Noise (1=extremely loud-10=quiet): 3
Pad Lifespan (1=short-10=long): 7
Does the brake dust with this combination damage the wheels/paint if not cleaned immediately? Whatt?? I'll go check now!
Brake ducts: N

A hybrid brake pad is designed for its intended purpose. Let us know how we can assist you in your brake needs.

[ZeHeadBanger]

I’m looking for some advice/tips/suggestions here and would like to hear your thoughts on this.

I’m looking on some feedback on my brakes and how they have started to feel in the past few weeks. I’m currently running a stock vehicle with upgraded tires (RE-71R), brake pads (PMU HC800+) and brake fluid (RBF 600) and I take it to the track a few times every year. I was happy with the PMU pads but have started to lose confidence in them as I feel significant fade after 10-12 mins on the track. Now, this is where I’m a little confused – am I feeling a brake fade (glazed pads) or boiling my fluid?
- Brakes start to feel mushy around that 10-12 min mark. They don’t go down all the way to the floor but the initial bite is gone and I tend to brake a little early.
- During every day driving, I need to push my brake pedal just a little bit extra I feel to get the bite for the vehicle to start slowing down.

Do you guys think it’s because of glazed pads, or boiled fluid (I bled my fluid before my first and only track day this year) or are my rotors being eaten slowly hence increasing the amount of distance the pistons in the calipers need to travel to initiate contact with the rotors? I’m also looking to change pads for a better feedback and as of this point wouldn’t mind changing out pads just for the track days.

Any recommendations for pads apart from Carbotech XP12? (those are high on my list right now but I would like to consider more options). Should I think about changing rotors (no cracks, passes fingernail test, have 66k miles on the car)? I’m planning on installing PMU G-Four fluid and see if that improves performance and reduces, if present, the risk of boiling fluid.

[Icecreamtruk]

Originally Posted by ZeHeadBanger

are my rotors being eaten slowly hence increasing the amount of distance the pistons in the calipers need to travel to initiate contact with the rotors?

Im not an expert of any kind on the subject but I can tell you this is not how braking works. When you release the brakes, the piston does not retract on its own, its the friction between pad and rotor that pushes the piston away. Once they are not touching (or barely touching so not enough friction), the piston stops retracting. The amount of missing material on the rotor and pads should not increase the pedal travel. There are exceptions, like uneven wear on rotors can push pads a bit further away, but nothing major to the extend of what you are feeling.

[csuzuki]

Hey guys,

I just did my first track day on Monday, I installed project mu hc800 just in the front prior to the event. Everything worked great, but I went to check the pads today, and noticed one of the pads had separated from the backing. I'm just wonder is it still good to use? I have installed oem pads for the time being.

Thanks
Craig

[14stu]

Depends on what you mean by "backing", if you are talking about the part of the pad between the friction material and the steel backing plate then you shouldn't use the pads anymore. However, if you are talking about the metal shim then you are fine to keep using them (it's just to prevent noise).

[csuzuki]

That answers my question, the friction material separated from the steel plate.

Thanks

[pgranberg11]

[B]Brake Pad Manufacturer (F/R): G-Loc
Caliper (F/R): STi Brembo/oem
[B]Rotor Size (F/R - IE OEM or specify): STi front/larger vented rear
[B]Compound (F/R): R10 compound
[B]Tires: BFG Goodrich G-Force Rivals

[B]Feedback: Really need to get these to warm up to get good braking in. Other than that stayed pretty predictable and brake pedal felt strong throughout.

Scores:
Dusting (1=high-10=low): 7 or 8. imo, Hawk HP+ dusts more
Cold bite (1=low-10=high): 4
Hot bite (1=low-10=high): 8
Modulation (1=low-10=high): 8
Noise (1=extremely loud-10=quiet): 2 doesn't really squeak or squeal
Pad Lifespan (1=short-10=long): not sure yet, lasted me all three days of gridlife, so 12 20 minute sessions so far and I still have more than half the pad left.
Does the brake dust with this combination damage the wheels/paint if not cleaned immediately? Not that I can tell. I don't believe so
Brake ducts: Y

[OND]

Hi everyone,

I realized when driving back from the track today that my rear right brake pads (Carbotech XP10) were squeaking constantly while cruising on the highway. A tap on the brakes silenced them for a while, but it intermittently came and went. I am used to noise under braking, but this continuous squeaking issue is a first for me.

Do you think I should worry about pistons seizing up or do you think this is expected?

Thanks