Is my alignment good?

[churchx]

benzz280: as strat61caster said. Different bolts of different sizes (and of course with different part numbers). I'm guessing that both Whiteline & SPC may have bolts fitting for both holes, for bottom 14mm (in reality bolt diameter there is closer to 12mm?) and for top 16mm hole (where bolts probably are of 14mm inner size to allow play needed for adjustment).
To simplify choice, ft86sf has exactly the camberbolts that you may need. SPC 81305/Whiteline KCA416 that is. Or get just SPC ones & reuse oem 14mm ones relocating them from bottom to top hole.

[benzz280]

Originally Posted by churchx

benzz280: as strat61caster said. Different bolts of different sizes (and of course with different part numbers). I'm guessing that both Whiteline & SPC may have bolts fitting for both holes, for bottom 14mm (in reality bolt diameter there is closer to 12mm?) and for top 16mm hole (where bolts probably are of 14mm inner size to allow play needed for adjustment).
To simplify choice, ft86sf has exactly the camberbolts that you may need. SPC 81305/Whiteline KCA416 that is. Or get just SPC ones & reuse oem 14mm ones relocating them from bottom to top hole.

Cool man thx for the tips might try it out on my next aligment trip 👍


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[neilvosko]

if SPC and whiteline are the same bolt, how come it is only recommended to use the SPC in bottom hole ?

[churchx]

They can be same bolt, as both these companies sell both sized bolts.

But users that are advising specific bolt in specific hole most probably are assuming that "company X camberbolt" is of specific size, and "company Y one" is of different size, hence the resulting advise. (Whiteline KCA416 16mm for upper hole, SPC 81305 14mm for bottom hole, as offered by eg. ft86sf and as listed as compatible with our cars within their websites by whiteline & spc)

One technically can put 14mm camberbolt (in reality ~ 12mm inside bolt part to allow movement/adjustment) in 16mm strut mounting hole, but it's not advisable, as bolt can be broken/sheared easier there. Better to use 16mm crashbolt (in reality ~ 14mm) for 16mm hole.

[neilvosko]

so is the top strut hole safer (more conservative) than a putting a camber bolt in the bottom hole?

i am curious as i am looking for -1 to -1.5 camber for aggressive street, so want to stay as conservative a possible, i read in a thread that whiteline recommended to use the top hole as the bottom one takes a lot more stress?

[churchx]

Imho it shouldn't matter much, top OR bottom. Or difference in mounting strength of any to be too different with other bolt being stock, whichever one of bolts is replaced with camberbolt. If you hit something hard enough to break/shear any camberbolt+other stock bolt combo, imho there are other things to care about with THAT hard of hit to suspension, like bent control arms, topmounts, damaged wheels and such.

Meanwhile -1 to -1.5 seems to me as a bit too conservative, but as wished (by me) -2.# needs both camberbolts anyway (OR anything from slotting/lowering/camberplates), i don't have to choose

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by churchx

Imho it shouldn't matter much, top OR bottom.

I doubt I could tell the difference but.....

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

For the front, it is advantageous to get more of your camber from a camber bolt at the hub rather than up top with a camber plate. Increasing camber up top means an increase in SAI, which you don't want. Still a net positive effect due to the increase in static camber, but ideally you want more of your negative camber to come from the hub mounting point. If you need a lot of camber, yes you'll likely need to get some of it from up top, plus you'll gain some tire clearance.

[churchx]

Captain Snooze: but wasn't that RCE post more related to - if better to deal camber at topmount/camberplate or at lower mount/hub as a whole, not discerning between which exactly from two bolts at hub/at lower end of coilover, about which was asked in post i answered to?

[neilvosko]

I'm I reAd somewhere that top vs bottom impacts the scrub radius, so I was curious on your view @churchx
I am just an on ramp racer for now so -1 degree seems like best compromise for tire wear vs performance for Oem tires, maybe 1.5, maybe I will start a poll, curious to see what the community is settling at on camber on white line top vs doc bottom bolt

[churchx]

Scrub radius most often is affected by wheel offset for those that want no matter have them "flush". Be it by offset of wheels themselves, or by spacer usage. Camberbolts don't move much hub of wheel, so scrub radius is not one that is affected by noticeable amount from that.
My compromise choice is max i can get with bolts front (-2.4, originally aimed for -2.5), by 0.5 less in rear (-1.9) and with LCAs (less - to dial out some understeering from car as stock). +0.1 toe-in in rear. Was fine for me on track on reasonably gripless tires and on stock suspension and i didn't notice tire wear changes when daily driving enough to bother.
If you almost don't track, and want as daily as possible, i guess -1.5 front / -1 rear might be more for your taste. I'd still keep that difference of 0.5 to lessen understeer. But one can dial in more camber aswell. It's toe, that is biggest tire killer, not camber.