DIY: Installation of a Bazooka BT8100FCH Subwoofer to a Bespoke/Pioneer PT546-00140

[RickyBobby]

Some will say that the best way to install a Bazooka sub is to not to install one. I’m not an audiophile and don’t want to rattle my neighbors’ windows when I drive by. I just wanted to add a little extra base to the OEM audio system and a Bazooka amplified sub seemed like the cheapest and easiest solution.

I ordered a Bazooka BT8100FCH sub from here: https://jet.com/product/Bazooka-BTA8...7c9d572371d8d1 It comes with their universal Fast-9999 and BTAH installation harnesses.
When I ordered it the price was $161.99 shipped, $186.99 – 15% off for your first 3 orders. Same price as Amazon at the time but Amazon charges me sales tax, 9.25% in TN. Shipping was fast, got it in 3 days by Fedex.
There's also an optional Bass Remote Control module you can get for this sub.

I replaced the stock audio HU in my 2013 last year with a 2015 PT546-00140 HU. The PT546-00140 HU does not have RCA sub jacks like the 2013 HU so you have to splice into the wires on the 10 pin power and speaker plug.

The Posi-Tap connectors on my harness are black.


I mounted the sub on the passenger side of the trunk by securing the mounting bases to the trunk carpet and trunk mat using:
4 - #8-32 nylock nuts
4 - #8-32 x 3/4” machine screws (use 1/2” or 5/8” if only trunk mat, no carpet)
4 - 3/16” x 1” fender washers
You can purchase these separately at Ace Hardware.
You could also use zip ties, or if you only have a trunk mat industrial strength Velcro.



I placed the sub as far back as it would go so the back panel would help keep it in place while still keeping Bazooka’s recommended 2 – 4” between the woofer and the corner it’s pointing into.



I positioned the mounting bases ~3” from each end of the sub and used finishing nails to mark the spots for the screws.





If you remove the straps from the mounting bases re-install them before securing them.
On page 9 of their manual they suggest for their 8” model 22” for the length of the buckle end side of the strap but I found that ~19” works better.






I didn’t disconnect the battery since I didn’t cut any hot wires, but if it makes you feel more at ease disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Before removing the radio, cover the center console with a heavy towel. The brackets on the radio are sharp and will easily scratch the plastic trim.
With a plastic panel removal tool remove the panel around the radio.
Remove the 4 -10mm radio bracket bolts and pull the radio out just far enough to unplug the 10 pin plug.

Connect the 6 Posi-Tap connectors on the FAST-9999 harness to the corresponding wires on the 10 pin plug. Be careful not to cross thread them.
Battery Constant 12V+ wire: Red
Accessory Switched 12V+ wire: Blue/White
Left Front Speaker wire (+): White
Left Front Speaker wire (-): White/Black
Right Front Speaker wire (+): Gray
Right Front Speaker wire (-): Gray/Black

Power and Speaker (10P+6P) plugs



Back of PT546-00140 HU, 10 pin plug is on lower left.



10 pin plug wires: pin numbers read top right to left and then bottom right to left.

Battery Constant 12V+ Wire: Orange - pin 4
Accessory Switched 12V+ Wire: Black/Blue - pin 3
Got this info from 2 different sources but on my 2013 FRS this wire is Red.
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black - pin 2
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow - pin 6
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Blue - pin 1
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Black/Blue - pin 5
Ground: Black/Blue – pin 7
Illumination: Purple – pin 10
Factory Amp Turn On: Brown – pin 9

My accessory 12V switched wire, pin 3, is Red not Black/Blue.


I have an Auto Harness House back up camera harness so my 10 pin plug connects to it.
I should have cut the electrical tape wrap back more on the 10 pin plug cable to give me more room to connect the Posi-Tap connectors.
I would have connected the FAST-9999 harness to the Auto Harness House harness but the wires were too thick for the Posi-Tap connectors.



I routed the FAST-BTAH cable under the bottom of the rear seat, tucked it under the right center console panels and the right knee pad, and then up to the HU. It makes it a bit easier if you remove the glove box.

I attached the ground wire to one of the back seat bracket bolts and zip tied the excess cable under the rear seat bottom.



To remove the rear seat bottom, remove the 10mm bolt, lift the front of the seat up a bit, push down on the back of the seat and pull it forward to release it from the hook on the frame. Reverse the procedure to install it.

Connect the 6 pin connector on the FAST-BTAH harness to the FAST-9999 harness behind the HU. Use a zip tie to secure the FAST-BTAH harness to the frame.
The FAST-BTAH harness comes with 2 RCA male sub jacks. I left these connected to the harness.

Connect the 14 pin connector on the FAST-BTAH harness to the bass tube.
Turn your key on to accessory, turn your radio on, check that the green led power light on the sub is on. Play some music to check if the sub is working.
Run the Am I in Phase? Test. See the manual pages 19 and 21. The default setting for the phase switch is down.



Re-install the radio, radio panel, glove box if you removed it, and the back seat bottom.

The subwoofer was fairly easy to install. It would have been easier if the PT546-00140 HU had RCA sub input jacks. With the FAST-9999 harness you do not have to run a separate 12V power line through the firewall to the battery.
I’m surprised how much bass this thing puts out. At bass and treble levels on the HU set to mid (0), SSP to Natural, and the sub input level to ~1/3 the bass is more than adequate.
With the sub in the corner I still have a fair amount of trunk space left. I can easily unstrap, unplug the sub, and remove the trunk carpet and mat as one piece.




Edit 3/4/21: After almost 5 years my Bazooka BT8100FCH stills sounds great. After a few Tail of the Dragon runs I added a couple of velcro strips between the floor mat and the trunk foam blocks for extra stability. http://www.homedepot.com/p/VELCRO-Br...0199/202261921

[andrew4554]

how does it sound?

[RickyBobby]

To my old ears it sounds fine, not muddy or distorted.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

I basically installed mine the same way as you did. Took some trial and error because I originally tapped the rear speaker wires, and barely got any sound out of my tube (mine is the 50w version). Didn't realize they had a low pass filter. I didn't want to cut into my trunk mat, so I found some small pieces of 1x1" wood from Home Depot and used them as "stands" for the straps. It'll still move around if I take corners hard, but oh well. haha

[RickyBobby]

I first tried screwing the mounting brackets to a 6"w x 20"l piece of 5/8" plywood but the sub moved around too much.

BT8100 specs:
8" woofer with foam surround
Power output 100 watts max
Crossover Frequency 85Hz
Frequency response 39-85 Hz
Subsonic filter (12 dB/octave at 35 Hz)
Sensitivity 105 dB
18-3/8"L x 9-7/8"H x 8-9/16"W
2-ohm impedance
Weight 14 lbs

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Yeah, it'll move around, but I guess mine doesn't as much because I flipped my trunk mat upside down so it's the rubber side up, and I have a socket wrench set next to the Tube, so that combination kind of helps. haha. But nothing won't keep it down unless you screw through the mat.

[raian]

this looks like a really clean install considering it isnt one of those huge box subwoofers that just takes up all the space in the trunk and sits in the middle.