Pads/ Fluids Question

[JGalp]

Hey all, I've looked at the brake guide sticky, and a few other threads on here but just wanted to get your opinion on a few options I'm looking at. I'm at around 20k miles now and still on stock brake pads and fluids.

My mods are as follows, 17x9 RPF1 with 245/40 Hankook v12s,Tein Flex Z, SPL Lower Control arms, Edelbrock S/C on Carb tune and an MXP SP exhaust

Most of what i do is daily driving and spirited street driving, maybe when i gain more experience driving my car i will head up to the canyons and have some fun up there but I'm pretty mild in terms of how i drive my car.

I have been looking at a few brake pad upgrades (i was told rotors don't really matter too much) and have been looking at Hawk, project Mu, Stoptech, and Winmax W2 and W3.

not sure on what y'all could recommend to me as a good fluid to use.

I dont wanna cheap out on anything especially with brakes so i don't mind spending more money i just want something that fits what i need without too much hassle, hopefully something that doesn't squeal a lot and not too much brake dust but performance comes first (relative to my DD/"spirited" driving needs)

Thanks!

[ryoma]

use RBF600 since it is relatively cheap for what it is (and your usage). I personally use Torque RT700 however it is more expensive but handles heat better. I am not sure if you missed a sentence when posting or what, but brake fluid will not make your brakes squeak.

EDIT: I blame my own reading skills. I don't have experience with any other pads aside from the Winmax W5 and I can say that they are great pads, although noisy on the street. if you use W2 or W3, you should be fine. they are kind of expensive though.

[RJasonKlein]

For what you're doing, I suggest CL Brakes RC5+ pads, Spiegler braided lines, and AP Racing Radi-Cal R2 fluid - all three are top tier products that have worked very well for me. You'll pay a premium for the RC5+ pads, but they're one of the only options you have for sintered pads and have many advantages. The Radi-Cal R2 fluid has a much a higher boiling point than the stock fluid, but is compatible with it and therefore doesn't require a complete system flush.

[solidONE]

The Stoptech sport pads work pretty well for daily and spirited driving.

[ls1ac]

Brake fluid, if you are not on the track then the chance of boiling the fluid is nil. Remember that the higher the boiling point the more hydroscopic the fluid. In short, you will have to change it more often. It is meant for track use and meant to be changed very often. Stock fluid is fine for most drivers however there is a synthetic made by Valvoline that is better than stock (temperature) and is not as hydroscopic as stock.
Why is water absorbed by the fluid bad, it will settle in low spots and rust components.

[JGalp]

i mean are there any negatives of me going with something like rt700 that CSG has done numerous tests on that confirm its track capabilities? i know it will be overkill for my application but are there any negatives to it besides price? i don't mind paying a premium for good quality stuff for my car. i baby her as much as i can

[krayzie]

Stock brakes I recommend ATE Typ 200 / Super Blue brake fluid. Porsche approved and rated for 3 year change interval with normal usage.

I'm using ATE Typ 200 with STI pink brake pads for daily / spirited street driving only.

[ryoma]

Originally Posted by JGalp

i mean are there any negatives of me going with something like rt700 that CSG has done numerous tests on that confirm its track capabilities? i know it will be overkill for my application but are there any negatives to it besides price? i don't mind paying a premium for good quality stuff for my car. i baby her as much as i can

the only negative part is probably the price, but if you don't mind it then go for it.

[strat61caster]

Stoptech pads and ATE Typ 200 sound perfect for your use and will keep money in your pocket.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by JGalp

Hey all, I've looked at the brake guide sticky, and a few other threads on here but just wanted to get your opinion on a few options I'm looking at. I'm at around 20k miles now and still on stock brake pads and fluids.

My mods are as follows, 17x9 RPF1 with 245/40 Hankook v12s,Tein Flex Z, SPL Lower Control arms, Edelbrock S/C on Carb tune and an MXP SP exhaust

Most of what i do is daily driving and spirited street driving, maybe when i gain more experience driving my car i will head up to the canyons and have some fun up there but I'm pretty mild in terms of how i drive my car.

I have been looking at a few brake pad upgrades (i was told rotors don't really matter too much) and have been looking at Hawk, project Mu, Stoptech, and Winmax W2 and W3.

not sure on what y'all could recommend to me as a good fluid to use.

I dont wanna cheap out on anything especially with brakes so i don't mind spending more money i just want something that fits what i need without too much hassle, hopefully something that doesn't squeal a lot and not too much brake dust but performance comes first (relative to my DD/"spirited" driving needs)

Thanks!

Have you faded your brake pads yet?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by JGalp

i mean are there any negatives of me going with something like rt700 that CSG has done numerous tests on that confirm its track capabilities? i know it will be overkill for my application but are there any negatives to it besides price? i don't mind paying a premium for good quality stuff for my car. i baby her as much as i can

Only the price, but we're talking about $34 bucks. That's chump change compared to what you have in the rest of your car

[JGalp]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Have you faded your brake pads yet?

i dont even know what that really means. i have about 21k on my car right now..only DD driving, i dont think ive ever even slammed on my brakes because i drive pretty conservatively and havent been put in spots where ive had to. how long do the stock brakes typically last? i havent gotten them measured,.

[chaoskaze]

Originally Posted by JGalp

i dont even know what that really means. i have about 21k on my car right now..only DD driving, i dont think ive ever even slammed on my brakes because i drive pretty conservatively and havent been put in spots where ive had to. how long do the stock brakes typically last? i havent gotten them measured,.

You should have more then half of the stock pad left still. If you rarely brakes & use engine brake all the time.

Brake fade is when fluid/pad get too hot from rapid usage in short session so your fluid boils & brake started to stop working as intent. Stock fluid boils very easy.


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[wparsons]

Originally Posted by ls1ac

Brake fluid, if you are not on the track then the chance of boiling the fluid is nil. Remember that the higher the boiling point the more hydroscopic the fluid. In short, you will have to change it more often. It is meant for track use and meant to be changed very often. Stock fluid is fine for most drivers however there is a synthetic made by Valvoline that is better than stock (temperature) and is not as hydroscopic as stock.
Why is water absorbed by the fluid bad, it will settle in low spots and rust components.

Water isn't just bad for corrosion... it also significantly lowers the boiling point of the fluid. I would be more worried about lowered boiling point than corrosion.

Originally Posted by chaoskaze

You should have more then half of the stock pad left still. If you rarely brakes & use engine brake all the time.

Brake fade is when fluid/pad get too hot from rapid usage in short session so your fluid boils & brake started to stop working as intent. Stock fluid boils every easy, my f


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Pad fade is when the pads are too hot, the pedal is still firm but the pads don't have much (or any) bite. It's like a mountain bike before disc brakes after riding through a deep puddle. Unless you've REALLY overheated (or overheated multiple times), they should recover pretty quick (like 0.5-1 easy laps) Boiled fluid is VERY different and much scarier. Your brake pedal will probably go to the floor, and the only fix is to bleed the brakes (or better, flush with all new fluid).