The "Who broke it's axle" thread

[chaoskaze]

^ just get a stronger after market axle, don't get OEM replacement


or u can get that Subaru BRZ tS axle if u have the $$$ to blow.

[wheelhaus]

Originally Posted by AreteAuto

Another piece of advice. Don't use lowering springs like I did. They increase the angle and don't provide much more resistance to axle travel than the stock springs. If you go lower, use coils to prevent the axles from reaching as extreme of angles.

This isn't exactly wrong, just a little misleading. Coilovers will not magically save your axles. Springs and coils both do exactly the same thing in regards to lowering by placing the wheel deeper into it's travel. Neither change anything about the suspension geometry, it still follows the same path, and the axle still follows the same deflection. The issue stems from deep lowering. Both springs and coilovers are capable of lowering the car too much, adversely affecting shaft angle. This part we can all agree on.

The only beneficial thing coilovers might offer over springs (and the point I believe you're trying to make) is stiffness; under extreme compression a coilover might theoretically resist bottoming a little more. This is extremely difficult to prove however, as coilovers would need to be individually measured for spring stiffness, damper settings, eye to eye, stroke, bump stop thickness/durometer, etc. IMO it's too many variables to lay a blanket statement.

[Aztec]

Originally Posted by shezzdog

so currently whats the best way to solve this, stronger cv joints? getting replacement ones that will break again seems like a waste of time.
i've only lowered recently and want to prevent this from happening, car isn't tracked and is an auto so no clutch dumping.

also 2012 model, will 13' 14' axles fit? (cant imagine it would be fine) car has 40,000 miles on it.

There is no 2012 model...

Just keep using your current axles under you can audible hear a click from a stand still to moving. That will be the sign that it's starting to fail

Look into the DSS axles, they have a different designed cv joint that allows more leeway in the angles and it's rated up to 600hp

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[shezzdog]

Originally Posted by Aztec

There is no 2012 model...

Just keep using your current axles under you can audible hear a click from a stand still to moving. That will be the sign that it's starting to fail

Look into the DSS axles, they have a different designed cv joint that allows more leeway in the angles and it's rated up to 600hp

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its stamped 2012 here in aus. first model.
looking into these, but from what ive seen doesnt look too promising.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Aztec

There is no 2012 model...

Other countries don't ascribe to the North American strategy of releasing next years car many months before the year begins ('13 FRS/BRZ were available in May 2012). There are GT86's and BRZ's sold as 2012 model year cars in other countries (Europe, Asia, Australia etc.).


@shezzdog to my knowledge the axles have been unchanged from start of production.

Edit: And yes, no guaranteed solution yet, some people save money and just keep spares in the garage taken from wrecked cars or whatever.

[AreteAuto]

Originally Posted by wheelhaus

The only beneficial thing coilovers might offer over springs (and the point I believe you're trying to make) is stiffness; under extreme compression a coilover might theoretically resist bottoming a little more. This is extremely difficult to prove however, as coilovers would need to be individually measured for spring stiffness, damper settings, eye to eye, stroke, bump stop thickness/durometer, etc. IMO it's too many variables to lay a blanket statement.

Yes, that is what I was attempting to say, thank you for expounding.

[stugray]

Originally Posted by wheelhaus

The only beneficial thing coilovers might offer over springs (and the point I believe you're trying to make) is stiffness; under extreme compression a coilover might theoretically resist bottoming a little more.

You guys constantly freak me out.
Isnt this a little more correct?:

Originally Posted by wheelhaus

The only beneficial thing aftermarket coilovers might offer over OEM coilovers (and the point I believe you're trying to make) is stiffness; under extreme compression an aftermarket coilover (specifically engineered for lowering) might theoretically resist bottoming a little more.

Stock "Coilovers" ARE "Coilovers".......

[Aztec]

Unrelated to whatever the topic has gotten off to.

If people are hearing a click noise from either rear end when the drive train is engaged or disengaged it's actually just the axle nut. Replace and retorque to spec and noise is completely gone. This is a common issue with subarus

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[wheelhaus]

Originally Posted by stugray

You guys constantly freak me out.
Isnt this a little more correct?:



Stock "Coilovers" ARE "Coilovers".......

You're absolutely and especially technically correct, but the term "coilovers" in the culture IMO has always generally referred to aftermarket coilovers.

[DAEMANO]

Is there a DIY for changing these?

Found it:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45949

[trueno86power]

Well, guess I'm back in this club !

My left axle just begin clicking... I'll re-torque the nut and I will hope.

[stevemp5]

the car must be on the ground or in the air when I re-torque the nuts?

[BlaineWasHere]

Originally Posted by stevemp5

the car must be on the ground or in the air when I re-torque the nuts?

I did it with the car in the air. I don't think it matters.


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[trueno86power]

Originally Posted by trueno86power

Well, guess I'm back in this club !

My left axle just begin clicking... I'll re-torque the nut and I will hope.

I've re-torque the axle nut over the spec (Spec 140 ft-lbs - Torque to app 160-170 ft-lbs) and it don't make any noise now. I know this will be temporary... I hope not but