The "Who broke it's axle" thread

[Gopherboy6956]

Originally Posted by BlaineWasHere

When your car rolls in super low on wide autoX wheels/tires with a big "Tire Rack" banner on the windshield warranty sorta doesn't work anymore. Plus I have 97,000 miles on my car now anyway.

Ditto - only my supercharger pretty much took me out of warranty consideration at 5k miles.

[Mild2Wild]

Originally Posted by Gopherboy6956

Save yourself the money, buy these two - have an extra, and swap it yourself.
Takes maybe 30 minutes, easy 1 person job.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-SUBARU-...ca1c10&vxp=mtr

Wish I knew how many miles were on them. Dealer tech couldn't hear the noise I described, so they don't agree it's broken. Wanted $400 for oem axle plus 2-3hrs labor! Torn between buying those oem replacements for cheap if they are not too used and buying DSS 600hp axles that will never break again.

[Gopherboy6956]

Well - at the end of the day, the axles typically don't break from a ludicrous about of power, they brake from weird ass angles while applying power, big bumps, etc.

So as long as you treat the stock ones well, the should hold up for a good long time.

Take the used ones - no reason to suspect they are abused or anything. Grab this one - 7k miles
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scion-FR-S-S...25.m3641.l6368

I bought my used engine from LKQ and it was in great shape.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Mild2Wild

Wish I knew how many miles were on them. Dealer tech couldn't hear the noise I described, so they don't agree it's broken. Wanted $400 for oem axle plus 2-3hrs labor! Torn between buying those oem replacements for cheap if they are not too used and buying DSS 600hp axles that will never break again.

If it's just clicking that does not necessarily mean it's on the way to failure, there are many people who have had the axle nut slip, having the nut re-torqued has solved clicking noises in the past and the axles have survived for tens of thousands of miles afterwards. I would believe that after a few hard launches something slipped creating the noise. I'd angle for that, should be a simple job that falls under basic warranty work for well under an hour.

Just my 2 cents before you go tearing apart your rear end and blowing a couple hundred bucks.

[dem00n]

Can the clicking be continuous while driving? Even when cursing around town?

Someone with a BRZ a few days was asking me, i wasn't sure how to answer. I told him that it happens under load, so i supposed that cursing around town could cause it as well...

[Mild2Wild]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

If it's just clicking that does not necessarily mean it's on the way to failure, there are many people who have had the axle nut slip, having the nut re-torqued has solved clicking noises in the past and the axles have survived for tens of thousands of miles afterwards. I would believe that after a few hard launches something slipped creating the noise. I'd angle for that, should be a simple job that falls under basic warranty work for well under an hour.

Just my 2 cents before you go tearing apart your rear end and blowing a couple hundred bucks.

Going to have a mechanic friend take a look at it one evening soon. I sure do hope you've given me some successful advice!

[AreteAuto]

Originally Posted by Mild2Wild

Going to have a mechanic friend take a look at it one evening soon. I sure do hope you've given me some successful advice!

Eh. Do you AutoX or track? My CV and diff blew up on the track last weekend after the deadly clicking for several weeks on the street. It'll take more than the axle nut. Several people have reported the clicking continuing after re-torquing. The culprit is the axle angle, it just is not up to the task of hard corners and acceleration.
The only solutions I can find are diff risers or bushing inserts. I wish we had shaft spacers like the S2k's.
Another piece of advice. Don't use lowering springs like I did. They increase the angle and don't provide much more resistance to axle travel than the stock springs. If you go lower, use coils to prevent the axles from reaching as extreme of angles.

[sqd]

Haha, there's a long thread for what I am now experiencing..

Anyway, hearing clicking from the rear left when turning left and accelerating, so I guess that's a bad axle then? 12.4k miles, 2013 GT86.

But I think I also heard a rattle when the transmission was in motion, but car stationary. Went away when I clutched, or the trans slowed down, what could that be? Came almost at the exact same time I heard the clicking from the rear. Wasn't there before.

Also should add that the car is completely stock beside TRD springs, which it had from the factory.

[Gopherboy6956]

Originally Posted by sqd

Haha, there's a long thread for what I am now experiencing..

Anyway, hearing clicking from the rear left when turning left and accelerating, so I guess that's a bad axle then? 12.4k miles, 2013 GT86.

But I think I also heard a rattle when the transmission was in motion, but car stationary. Went away when I clutched, or the trans slowed down, what could that be? Came almost at the exact same time I heard the clicking from the rear. Wasn't there before.

Also should add that the car is completely stock beside TRD springs, which it had from the factory.

How is the transmission moving when the car is not?

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

[Mild2Wild]

Originally Posted by AreteAuto

Eh. Do you AutoX or track? My CV and diff blew up on the track last weekend after the deadly clicking for several weeks on the street. It'll take more than the axle nut. Several people have reported the clicking continuing after re-torquing. The culprit is the axle angle, it just is not up to the task of hard corners and acceleration.
The only solutions I can find are diff risers or bushing inserts. I wish we had shaft spacers like the S2k's.
Another piece of advice. Don't use lowering springs like I did. They increase the angle and don't provide much more resistance to axle travel than the stock springs. If you go lower, use coils to prevent the axles from reaching as extreme of angles.

I was at the drag strip and got a lot of wheel hop during one launch. The coils probably allow quite a bit of squat (7k rates all around), so the hop plus exaggerated angle greater than what it normally sees on the street most likely caused it. I am lowered what I estimate to be about 2-2.5" on BC coils with the Swift springs (don't buy these!! if I could afford to do it over again right now I would absolutely go for the 2k+ coils!!) The clicking is experienced only when the drivetrain is cold. The dealer tech couldn't hear the noise, and even when I thought that taking him for a ride so I could point it out would help, it didn't happen--the car was already warmed up. As the OEM axles are $400 and they seem to think it will take 3hrs to install them(!), I am holding off for now. Trying to decide if I should keep this car and continue down this expensive rabbit hole I'm already deep into or move on. Will probably go with DSS 600 axles as a pair when I'm forced to...

[Lawnik]

To everyone that thinks that the DSS axles will solve the problem alone, think again. Must address the real problem of the angle.

This is the biggest and really only major engineering/design flaw of this car.

[sqd]

Originally Posted by Gopherboy6956

How is the transmission moving when the car is not?

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

I was in gear and stopped, put the clutch down and heard what was either the clutch or trans spinning down, and this rattle slowed down with it, that's how I meant

But, I drove the car for 30 minutes today, and the only thing making a sound was a rock stuck in the rear left tire.. Removed it, and heard nothing since then. Sounds really silly, but it didn't sound like a rock at all when I first heard it, but the car is not making any noise, clicking or rattle now. Confused..

[Aztec]

Just want to chime in,
at 31,000 miles. Around 205whp on E85
clicking is ONLY happening when I am reversing up a hill or going forward from a standstill and I don't give it enough gas. It's not a normal occurrence to hear.

It sounded like it was coming from the passenger side.
I am lowered 1.4" on eibachs, mainly spirited street driving and some clutch dumping.

Again since it's not a continuous click and I can do a full day of daily driving without hearing it (only certain circumstances under low speeds and stress it happens)
Could it just need regreasing and torquing?

[shezzdog]

so currently whats the best way to solve this, stronger cv joints? getting replacement ones that will break again seems like a waste of time.
i've only lowered recently and want to prevent this from happening, car isn't tracked and is an auto so no clutch dumping.

also 2012 model, will 13' 14' axles fit? (cant imagine it would be fine) car has 40,000 miles on it.